Delta 10" table saw

[James Sweeney]

Need some advice here guys, my uncle has a 10" 3hp Delta right tilt table saw. It looks like a nice used unit. The only thing I see wrong is that it has been sitting in a shed and has a thin layer of rust on the top of the table. Is this a huge issue to clean up? He would trade me even up for my Dewalt Contractor saw, it's the one that goes for about 500.00. I am wondering if this is worth it. I think I would have to put a significant effort into getting it ready to use, considering the rust and everything. Do you guys think this is a good deal? Other than the rust, this saw looks to be in real nice shape, I wish I would have got the model number, but I think this type of saw goes for around 1000.00 new. But that is hard to say. Am I asking for trouble with that rust on the top?

[scott spencer]

The fence that's on the saw influences value...Biesemeyer or Unifence are more desirable than the Jetlock type. Is it a "Unisaw"? How many cast iron wings? How wide is the ripping capacity?

Rust is a straight forward cleanup...as long as there's not severe pitting, it'll make no difference in how the saw performs. I'd also want to hear it run if possible, but I'm thinking it's a good deal if in good condition. Make sure the motor is single phase and not 3-phase...it'll require 220v.

Re: the DeWalt saw...did you mean a portable jobsite saw like the DW744 or 745? Or did you mean the bigger stationary DW746 hybrid saw?

[James Sweeney]

Wow Scott, thanks for replying so quickly. I love this forum. My saw is a DW 7440. I have no problems at all with this contractor saw, it has been very accurate for me. I don't know a lot about cabinet saws, except that I have heard they are more accurate for woodworkers, so I thought this may be an opportunity to ugrade to a nicer saw. The deal is all in the family, my uncle and I. I'm sure he would take it back if it does not work. I trust him completely. the saw was in some pieces, the fence was not attached, but it did say unifence on it. It looked like it had an extension on the left, but I will have to find out if there is a right extension for it. It looked like it had a nice blade guard that was also not attached. Assuming that the saw is in good condition Would it be an upgrade? My uncle did say it requires 220 for power. But I have a 220 outlet in my garage, I would probably just have an electritian re-route the outlet to my basement shop. I don't see that being a huge deal is it? I do know it is 3 hp. I thought that extra hp would help with ripping thicker wood. Again, thanks very much for your advice Scott.

[Rod Upfold]

Mine is a 1955 unisaw with the original fence on it which I use. I bought mine at a auction and then sold my year old GI-185 contractor saw. The GI-185 is a excellent saw...but I wanted a unisaw.


Rod

[James Sweeney]

I guess I am confused on the different types of saws, I pretty much know what a contractor saw is becuase they are usually portable right? Is there a thread explaining the differences between a contractor saw, cabinet saw, unisaw, arbor saw, ect?

[scott spencer]

I guess I am confused on the different types of saws, I pretty much know what a contractor saw is becuase they are usually portable right? Is there a thread explaining the differences between a contractor saw, cabinet saw, unisaw, arbor saw, ect?

Table saw types (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_saw)

A contractor saw is really a misnomer these days b/c modern contractors mainly use portable jobsite saws now. There are always areas of gray and marketing wizards intentionally confuse the boundaries to push cheaper goods as something they're not, but a traditional contractor saw is a full size cast iron stationary saw with a belt driven induction motor that hangs off the back. A portable jobsite saw is smaller and lighter, usually made from aluminum and plastic with a direct drive universal motor. An industrial cabinet saw has roughly the same size standard table as a full size contractor saw or hybrid, but has much beefier guts and usually a 3hp-5hp motor...they often have extended fence rails for wider ripping too...a Delta Unisaw is a full blown industrial cabinet saw. If you can swap a DW744 for a Unisaw with a Unifence in good condition, your Uncle is up for "uncle of the year". A new Uni with that fence would sell new in the $1500-$1800 range. The Uni will need 220v to run, whereas the DW744 would run on 110v.

jobsite saw:
81199

contractor saw:
81203 81201

hybrid:
81202

Unisaw:
81200

[James Sweeney]

that is what I was thinking, thanks so much for all the helpful info Scott. He knows it's worth more, but he picked it up for a deal also. So it's not like I am ripping him off. But this trade is beneficial for both of us since he already has a nice cabinet saw and now he will have a more portable saw for cutting in other area's. I get a nicer, more accurate saw for woodworking. Win, win. Thanks again.