Advice needed Performax 22-44 Problem.

[Alex Elias]

I can really use the help of you, tools gurus :o
Last year I got a new Peformax 22-44. I have used it very little and mainly for small items. The other day I used it on something as wide as the capacity and noticed that the drum is not totally parallel to the bed on the open side (left). It is not much I guess 1/64 or so I did not messure it. I took the manual out and followed the adjustment instrunctions. Loosen all 4 bolts and turn the knob counterclockwise, the problem is that the know is as loose as it can be, so the roller tilt is all the way down already.
I messured the drum aligment without the paper on (as advised on the manual) and used an aluminum bar 1/8 thick. If I lower the head to make contact with the aluminum bar (right side of the drum) I have a small gap on the far left side of the drum and if I make the left side drum contact the bar it would not fit under the right side of the drum.
Are there any adjustments that can be made to correct this aside from the on knob? I can appreciate the fact that it should be a hair tall on the left side to prevent overlaping marks when flipping the stock over but I think the gap shoud be smaller and the knob should not be all the way loose.
Thanks for your feed back
Alex

[James Suzda]

Maybe the trick I used to adjust my 16/32 would work better than the thin aluminum bar. (I know how much of a pain that can be to see and adjust when using that thin piece of metal!) I put two 3/4 x 3/4 x 12 inch pieces of wood that were exactly the same thickness on the bed and then adjusted the head so it would just "kiss" each block of wood.
As for adjusting the head of your 22/44 I have no clue how to help you there. I just wanted to pass along the block of wood trick. (BTW, I use the same method to adjust the bed on my Woodmaster.)

[Mike Goetzke]

I haven't tried this method but it looks slick:

http://www.joewoodworker.com/performax.htm


GoodLuck,

Mike

[keith ouellette]

I did something similar to what james did for my 16/32 except I face jointed and planed a 6" wide 2" thick block. This gives me enough room to get a feeler gage in between the block and the drum.

I made my drum lift as little as I could at the outside end (I didn't want it to be flat). This way if you put something wider than 16" ( in your case 22") you won't did into the center. Perfectly level would be almost impossible so you want it up just a hair at the end.

One thing I did notice is when you tighten the bolts back up the head will move out of adjustment. Tighten each bolt up slowly, alternating in a zig zag method till they are tight. Do not tighten one all the way up and then move to the next. This will move the head.

any panel I put in goes through, gets turned around and then through again wether it is wider or narrower than the belt. This evens out any variance in thickness.

[keith ouellette]

I haven't tried this method but it looks slick:

http://www.joewoodworker.com/performax.htm


GoodLuck,

Mike

I just looked at this and it is pretty slick just like mike said. The only part I think I will use (although I would like to play with the test lights) is removing the spring and adding a nut. This is a great idea. Other than that I think a block of wood and a gauge should work just as well. I don't think A drum wrapped in paper is never going to be spot on. The guy is very clever though.

[Peter Quinn]

Kieth, I have the 22-44 pro, don't know how it differs from 22-44 standard, but sets up to sand 40" pannels with scarcely a witness line. I used a 1/4"X3"X30" Machinist flat bar and feeler gauges to get within .003", had to loosen each end, just snug up the knobs (and nuts on the closed side), kind of a back and forth effort honing in on it.

On mine the table can be shimmed for gross misalignments greater than the knobs can accomplish. Seem to remember starting with gauge blocks of equal heights at each end, lowering the arm until the head rested on each block at roughly the center of its adjustability, snuging each end and moving on to the flat bar/feeler gauges perpendicular to the head. I check it occasionally with an mdf test piece, several years now seems in good allignment.

[Alex Elias]

Thanks for the responses. But I still wonder if there is any way to further adjust the roller down once there knob if fully loose.

Peter. Adjusting the bed was a thought of mine. The model I own is the 22-44 Plus. I don't know how the Pro model deffiers from the Plus. If you can recall how did you adjust the bed I'd appreciate the insight.
Thanks again


Kieth, I have the 22-44 pro, don't know how it differs from 22-44 standard, but sets up to sand 40" pannels with scarcely a witness line. I used a 1/4"X3"X30" Machinist flat bar and feeler gauges to get within .003", had to loosen each end, just snug up the knobs (and nuts on the closed side), kind of a back and forth effort honing in on it.

On mine the table can be shimmed for gross misalignments greater than the knobs can accomplish. Seem to remember starting with gauge blocks of equal heights at each end, lowering the arm until the head rested on each block at roughly the center of its adjustability, snuging each end and moving on to the flat bar/feeler gauges perpendicular to the head. I check it occasionally with an mdf test piece, several years now seems in good allignment.

[Jon Todd]

I couldnt get mine adjusted either so I sold it. I tried and tried and could get it right.

[Peter Quinn]

I did not adjust the bed on mine as it has not been necessary, but was looking at the machine and figure it is possible. The bed on mine is ultimately held down by two bolts on each side to the yokes which slide on the posts. Shims under these two bolts on one side should restore the head/table allignment close to paralel.

I have used brass slip shims, available from McMaster Carr in kits on line, (.001"-.040" I think) for similar adjustments to other machines (shaper, table saw extensions). They have a cut out in the center to accomidate the bolt.

What I'm thinking is you could raise the open side of the whole table quickly by .020-.030" to overcome the 1/64 gap and make fine adjustments from there. My sander has a little piece of metal built in bolted on an excentric bushing that pushes up or down on the drum head bearing assembly. With the closed side of the drum snugged tight and the open (knob side) snugged loosly I am able to make fairly precise adjustments to the drum head.

If I could just get the machine to take off 1/16 per pass I could sell my planer!