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Bob Antoniewicz
02-09-2008, 2:45 AM
Just got final today on my new shop.

Before I start moving machines in, I need to move the wood sitting on the machines.

After searching through SMC, it seems that the Triton would have been a great choice last November, and I am kicking myself for not just going and commiting to them.

Are there any other good choices that are a little less expensive?

Bob A.

Shops done! WOOHOO!!!

Grant Morris
02-09-2008, 4:48 AM
I'll be buying a pile of these and some lag bolts when it's my time...

http://www.amazon.com/review/R3NF14BNQKY4AC/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

Rick Moyer
02-09-2008, 8:22 AM
Bob, the January Rockler catalog has/had the Triton on sale for $49.99
I had one already but bought a 2nd at that price. I plan to use it for misc. hardwood pcs. I also made a lumber rack/sheet goods storage from one of the ww mags (Shopnotes I think), but the Triton is pretty sturdy for a fair amount of lumber, as long as you secure it properly.

Rob Bodenschatz
02-09-2008, 9:31 AM
Heavy-duty shelf brackets from the borg work well for me. They come in different sizes so you can get the depth you want. I probably went a bit overboard here with the number of brackets but the wood ain't coming down.

81150

Actually, I lied. It already did come down since I'm in the middle of insulating the shop. The wood is now in a stack in a field behind my house.

JayStPeter
02-09-2008, 10:07 AM
Mine is the same as Rob's.

Grant, I'd advise against those particular brackets. Not because they won't hold up, it's just that you'll limit your capacity significantly because of the triangle shape. Even the depth of the smaller brackets I use gets annoying sometimes.

Rob, when I pulled mine down from my old shop all the screws were bent toward the ground a little where they span the u-shape. Did you have that. I mounted a piece of wood across the bottom and set the uprights on it before screwing it in this time. I also bought a different brand of screws that should be stronger. There didn't appear to be any danger of it coming down anytime soon, but better safe than sorry.

Jim Becker
02-09-2008, 10:29 AM
Bob, this is one case where I still have to advise "build your own". The commercial products are over priced for what you get, IMHO. That said, if you have a need for speed, you could use the Sterling heavy duty stuff sold at the 'borg to get the lumber up off the floor/machines for now and re-purpose afterward for general storage in the shop and garage. That's how I use it.

John Dingman
02-09-2008, 10:32 AM
Here is my lumber rack:

Before Lumber:

http://www.johnswoodshop.info/Lumber%20Storage%20Images/Lumber%20Storage%202.jpg

After Lumber:

http://www.johnswoodshop.info/Lumber%20Storage%20Images/Lumber%20Storage%203.jpg

And this is what I used: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10929

They have worked great for me and they can hold a lot of weight.

hth,
John

Keith Beck
02-09-2008, 10:56 AM
Bob,

I've got the same racks as John, but the Woodcraft version: http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931

I'm really quite pleased with it, it holds a ton of weight.

Keith

glenn bradley
02-09-2008, 11:18 AM
I kick myself for not picking up a couple sets of Tritons too. I bought these (but from Lowe's) and they work well. Cost was about the same. The low profile and high strength allow more wood in less vertical space which is at a premium for me.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=40003&cat=1,43326

Peter Quinn
02-09-2008, 11:29 AM
Was given the triton system for christmas one year, works well. Have another wall which is 2X6 stud wall drilled with parrallel 3/4" holes at different hights, 3/4" gas pipe holds the lumber. Made a simple drilling jig to aid in allignment. Very strong, very cheap, fairly quick if you have access to the studs. Not my idea, took it from FWW methods of work.

Randy Klein
02-09-2008, 11:31 AM
2x4's and pipes. As DIY as they come.

Bob Antoniewicz
02-09-2008, 11:42 AM
Bob, the January Rockler catalog has/had the Triton on sale for $49.99
I had one already but bought a 2nd at that price. I plan to use it for misc. hardwood pcs. I also made a lumber rack/sheet goods storage from one of the ww mags (Shopnotes I think), but the Triton is pretty sturdy for a fair amount of lumber, as long as you secure it properly.


Till when is the January catalog good for?

Bob A.

Jim Solomon
02-09-2008, 11:42 AM
My friend's dad is a GC and he has all of his mounted using 10" to 12" (sticking out of post)pieces of 3/4" conduit inserted into a hole drilled at a 5-10 degree angle of a 4x4 post. I plan on doing the same when I ever get around to it. He drilled holes every 12" down the length and can move/arrange anywhere from ceiling to floor. He also uses the same system to hang all the general stuff, ladders, cord's etc. They have been holding up for at least 17 years that I know of personally.
Jim

Quinn McCarthy
02-09-2008, 11:44 AM
Bob

I got a good deal on 3 sets of industrial shelving units from an auction of an cabinet business that went out of business. They were a little beat up from fork truck but they work great.

Quinn

Rob Bodenschatz
02-09-2008, 11:55 AM
Mine is the same as Rob's.

Grant, I'd advise against those particular brackets. Not because they won't hold up, it's just that you'll limit your capacity significantly because of the triangle shape. Even the depth of the smaller brackets I use gets annoying sometimes.


Significantly? I don't know about that. I have the 18 1/2" version & for comparison, did a drawing of it vs. the triton:

81164

The gray is the borg rack, the yellow is triton.
I didn't bother to figure out the difference in area lost between the borg rack and the triton but considering the depth of the borg rack, I don't think I'm losing THAT much space. I can fit an extra 1x6 board in the area beyond where the Triton ends. Also, because the borg racks provide more flexibility with configuration, I don't regret my decision a bit. So I guess we'll have to cancel each other out here. :)

I forget how much these cost so I can't speak to that or the shorter brackets. I also can't speak to the LV rack except that I know they're pricy.


Rob, when I pulled mine down from my old shop all the screws were bent toward the ground a little where they span the u-shape. Did you have that. I mounted a piece of wood across the bottom and set the uprights on it before screwing it in this time. I also bought a different brand of screws that should be stronger. There didn't appear to be any danger of it coming down anytime soon, but better safe than sorry.

I used McFeely square drive screws & didn't notice any bending. Keep in mind that I put the standards on every stud (16" space) so the weight was really distributed. Attaching a board underneath is never a bad idea.

glenn bradley
02-09-2008, 10:35 PM
Follow up, Triton at Rockler retail stores $40.99 a set this March 1 & 2.

Bob Antoniewicz
02-10-2008, 12:35 AM
Thanks all.

Before I get to the ooohhhs and aaahhhs and holey moleys, I'd like to ask if anyone is storing their wood on end (vertically)? It would seem to be easier to pick out a piece when you're ready to use it rather that off loading one level to get to that bottom piece. My last rack was horizontal, and quite tall. It always seemed that I needed the bottom board in the back on the top level.

Rick and other Triton guys, after looking at the loading capability again, I think I'd easily overload those puppies.

Rob B., Jay, et. al., I like your setup. Lotsa parts, but readily available. I went to the borg today, and saw the Closetmaid and Kraftmaid stuff. If I go horizontal, I will probably go that way (Closetmaid seemed beefier, but no loading specs - Kraftmaid looked ok but it seemed that they relied on the metal shelving to give lateral strength).

Mr. Dingman - Thats definitely a Heavy Duty rack. That stuff is kinda pricey, though. And there's no place local that I know of that has it.

I did the 2x6 and gas pipe (w/ pipe insulation) at my last house. I was hoping to get something up quicker than that went.

Again, many thanks for the information.

Bob A.

Rick Moyer
02-10-2008, 8:55 AM
Bob, if you're concerned about weight then do a search of lumber rack which was in Shop Notes. That is what I built for most of my lumber and sheet goods and it isn't coming down.

JayStPeter
02-10-2008, 9:28 AM
Significantly? I don't know about that. I have the 18 1/2" version & for comparison, did a drawing of it vs. the triton:

I meant the part that Grant linked. My suggestion was to use the same ones that you and I used instead.;)


I used McFeely square drive screws & didn't notice any bending. Keep in mind that I put the standards on every stud (16" space) so the weight was really distributed. Attaching a board underneath is never a bad idea.

I used cheap borg screws the first time around and McFeelys this time. Good to know it's likely to work better. Mine are also installed every 16".

Rob Bodenschatz
02-10-2008, 9:35 AM
I meant the part that Grant linked. My suggestion was to use the same ones that you and I used instead.;)


LOL. I read it as "Granted, I'd advise against those...", not paying attention to the fact that you were replying to Grant, the person.

Good, we are on the same page then. :D

JayStPeter
02-10-2008, 9:36 AM
Thanks all.

Before I get to the ooohhhs and aaahhhs and holey moleys, I'd like to ask if anyone is storing their wood on end (vertically)? It would seem to be easier to pick out a piece when you're ready to use it rather that off loading one level to get to that bottom piece. My last rack was horizontal, and quite tall. It always seemed that I needed the bottom board in the back on the top level.
Bob A.

I had a secondary vertical rack in my last garage shop. It had 10' ceilings. While I now have almost 9' ceilings I still wind up having capacity issues on my 10' wide rack. If you have the ceiling height, it works great.
The reason I needed a second rack in my old shop was floor space. The hanging rack gives space underneath. In my old shop I used the vertical rack for the boards I was planning on using in the current project, but only had about 2' of floorspace taken. The horizontal rack was for longer term storage since it required a step stool or ladder.
In my old shop the horizontal rack was over my miter saw station. In my new shop I use the space underneath exactly like Rob.

Jim Becker
02-10-2008, 9:42 AM
...if anyone is storing their wood on end (vertically)?

If I had the height I would do this in a second...with a properly built rack to provide support to the boards. Vertical storage is so much easier to manage in my mind, relative to choosing stock, than with horizontal storage. But having at least 10' ceilings is generally a rare thing for most shops. It's hard to do this with an 8' ceiling without cutting down stock prematurely.

Bob Antoniewicz
02-10-2008, 12:34 PM
Bob, if you're concerned about weight then do a search of lumber rack which was in Shop Notes. That is what I built for most of my lumber and sheet goods and it isn't coming down.

The rack in my last house was patterned after a friend's rack, who, in turn, patterned his after a shop notes design. Worked well - except for reaching the higher stuff.

I was looking for something quicker, that addressed the issue of boards on the top level.

Bob A.

Bob Antoniewicz
02-10-2008, 12:40 PM
If I had the height I would do this in a second...with a properly built rack to provide support to the boards. Vertical storage is so much easier to manage in my mind, relative to choosing stock, than with horizontal storage. But having at least 10' ceilings is generally a rare thing for most shops. It's hard to do this with an 8' ceiling without cutting down stock prematurely.

My shop walls are 9' at the eaves, and there is a 4" or 5" stemwall. The ceiling is gabled 2 in 12, so the peak is about 11'4". (If I had thought carefully about the DC, I might have gone a different route.)

A vertical orientation would use the space high up. And picking out boards would be easier.

Is there a good plan anywhere that I could look at or pattern after?

Any thoughts on what to consider when designing one?

I will still be going to borg and Lowes (re-borg?) to check out their stuff again quick. And for grins and giggles, I looked at McMaster-Carr, and their stuff seems less expensive than anyone's with the same load rating - and you can order the good screws at the same time.

Bob A.

PS - you know, as I get older, the decisions seem to get tougher. It took almost 3 months to decide on a cyclone. Geesh.

Miles to go before I sleep.

Craig D Peltier
02-10-2008, 9:04 PM
For all the magazines I have the one I like best. Its not cheap but it holds alot of weight. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&cat=1,43326,32145&p=32145 It might be same as hartville tool one.


"The 18" bracket will support a 300 lb load at the tip. That means that it will hold a 600 lb load evenly distributed along its length. Four brackets would hold 2400 lb of lumber – over one ton. The shorter brackets will support even more because they are of the same gauge steel and the moment arm is shorter. In short, the practical limitations of the system are the strength of the wall that it is attached to and the method of attachment"

Craig D Peltier
02-10-2008, 9:07 PM
Mine looks like this but I dont trust it with too much weight due to snapping ply arms. I found this design in a magazine. Its loaded with wood now.
81363

81364

Lee Hingle
02-10-2008, 11:21 PM
Bob,
I have the same rack components as John and Kieth, and like Kieth I got mine from woodcraft. I designed mine to be freestanding, however, because I have a metal bldg with no stud walls. These racks will hold a lot of weight. The 18" brackets are rated at 300# each, at the tip. The smaller brackets are rated even higher I believe.
Here is a photo:

Gary Muto
02-11-2008, 7:57 AM
I bougth a Triton Rack at Woodcraft in December. I got a bunch of lumber from a neighbor and had to do something quick. $40 is about as low as I've seen them.
I store the lumber on it's edge though. I figured that it would be less likely to sag that way.