Tom Henderson2
02-09-2008, 12:50 AM
Good evening everyone.
Would you take corrective action if your table saw flange radial runout was less than 0.001 but the lateral runout (wobble) was 0.0025?
I recently brought my Father's mid-sixties Craftsman table saw home and I'm in the process of doing what I can to dial it in. I started by measuring arbor runout.
Radial runout was good -- less than 0.001 total indicated runout (TIR).
Lateral runout wasn't so good -- 0.0025 at the flange. Extrapolating out from the 1.5" flange that equates to about 0.017 at the rim of a 10" blade.
I confirmed this by mounting a master plate and checking the alignment to the slots, using a shop-made sled for the dial indicator. I took measurements with the arbor installed at 90-degree intervals; the results varied from 0.002 to 0.018 depending on the angle.
I removed the plate, cleaned up the arbor flange, washer and nut face with scotch-brite, made sure everything was clean, and repeated the process. The results were virtually identical.
With a blade installed, the runout is visible to the naked eye as the blade coasts to a stop. I tried a couple blades and got the same result.
So as I mentioned at the top, would you experienced folks take action if you measured these kinds of numbers on your saw? What do you recommend? Replacement arbors are available from Sears, but I wonder if they are made any better than what I have already...
Any thoughts are appreciated. I hope the above description makes sense.
-Tom H.
Ventura, CA
Would you take corrective action if your table saw flange radial runout was less than 0.001 but the lateral runout (wobble) was 0.0025?
I recently brought my Father's mid-sixties Craftsman table saw home and I'm in the process of doing what I can to dial it in. I started by measuring arbor runout.
Radial runout was good -- less than 0.001 total indicated runout (TIR).
Lateral runout wasn't so good -- 0.0025 at the flange. Extrapolating out from the 1.5" flange that equates to about 0.017 at the rim of a 10" blade.
I confirmed this by mounting a master plate and checking the alignment to the slots, using a shop-made sled for the dial indicator. I took measurements with the arbor installed at 90-degree intervals; the results varied from 0.002 to 0.018 depending on the angle.
I removed the plate, cleaned up the arbor flange, washer and nut face with scotch-brite, made sure everything was clean, and repeated the process. The results were virtually identical.
With a blade installed, the runout is visible to the naked eye as the blade coasts to a stop. I tried a couple blades and got the same result.
So as I mentioned at the top, would you experienced folks take action if you measured these kinds of numbers on your saw? What do you recommend? Replacement arbors are available from Sears, but I wonder if they are made any better than what I have already...
Any thoughts are appreciated. I hope the above description makes sense.
-Tom H.
Ventura, CA