Norm's Zero Clearance Insert

[Chris Bruno]

So I've been meaning to ask this group if they know why Norm uses only a strip of wood in his zero clearance insert instead of making the whole insert out of wood?

I thought maybe it had to do with the ease of changing it.. but then I figured routing out the whole shape has got to be a pretty quick task for him.

I'm assuming he modified a stock insert to take the strip of wood?

Just makes me curious....

-Chris

[Bill Huber]

I have never noticed his but he may be using one of this type and just using wood for the insert.

http://eagleamerica.com/betterley-tru-cut-insert-system/p/400%2D1090/

[Chris Szczygiel]

Norm uses a wood dynamics zctp. The replaceable wood strip is cut like a dovetail which keeps it from lifting out. If you make a stack of inserts you can swap them quickly and the insert remains level with the table.


http://www.wooddynamics.com/images/plate1_o.jpg

http://www.wooddynamics.com/index.htm

[Rick Levine]

Unfortunately WoodDynamics is out of business, at least for the time being. Hopefully they will return or someone will buy them. I have one and fortunately for me I bought several packs of their inserts before they closed. I did contact the company a few months ago and was told that I may be able to get an extra throat plate to fit my Uni but I haven't heard form them as yet.

[Gary Keedwell]

Real good timing...I am in the process of making ZCI for my table saw. I am making mine using UHMW for the blank and 1/4" hardboard as the filler strip. Each filler strip will have it's own customized splitter for each blade. I plan on having a filler strip for each and every blade in my inventory. The best part of this project is that no specail equipment is needed. A standard dovetail bit is all you need.:eek::)
Gary

[Bruce Page]

I highly recommend them if you can find one. If I recall correctly, they sold for about $100 which is cheap considering the machining involved.
I made one out of aluminum plate for my Unisaw. I designed it with 45* dovetails so it is very easy to make the 1/8” dovetailed inserts in batches compared to making the whole insert.

[Chris Bruno]

Thanks everybody... I don't know why, but a dovetailed joint there never crossed my mind. Looks like I'm going to have to fire up the Bridgeport!

-Chris

[Bruce Page]

Thanks everybody... I don't know why, but a dovetailed joint there never crossed my mind. Looks like I'm going to have to fire up the Bridgeport!

-Chris

Chris, if you have a Bridgeport and know how to use it, then the plate is a piece-o-cake to make. I have AutoCAD drawings of the one I made for my Unisaw. PM me if interested.


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[John Guerra]

I have a Solidworks part model file for a right tilt Unisaw insert. My buddy machined one of these for me and had it red anodized. If you have Mastercam or something that can use a file let me know and I'll send it to you.

[Rick Lizek]

The Wooddynamics was the best z.c.i. on the market.
There's an article over on WC in the article section.
Piece of cake. You could also make it from cutting board plastic (HDPE). I find the UHMW doesn't stay as flat. The aluminum works easily with typcal wood working tools.

[Bruce Page]

The Wooddynamics was the best z.c.i. on the market.
There's an article over on WC in the article section.
Piece of cake. You could also make it from cutting board plastic (HDPE). I find the UHMW doesn't stay as flat. The aluminum works easily with typcal wood working tools.
Interesting article. Obviously it is possible, but it would take a bigger man than me to do all that with a router.

[Gary Keedwell]

Bruce...Have you tried using a standard router bit (dovetail) in your Bridgeport rather then using a 45º endmill to mill aluminum?

Gary

[Rick Gifford]

I've enjoyed this thread and optios. I will be looking into making my own zero clearance insert with replaceable center once the saw arrives.

I would think these would be offered by several manufactuers as thay are such a handy way to do the zero clearance.

[Bruce Page]

Bruce...Have you tried using a standard router bit (dovetail) in your Bridgeport rather then using a 45º endmill to mill aluminum?

Gary

No I haven't Gary. I have a couple of regular metal cutting dovetail cutters that I use.
I'm sure the router bit would work as long as you could control the size of the cut. My biggest problem with doing it with a router would be those hot aluminum chips flying EVERYWHERE! It’s bad enough with a milling machine…:rolleyes:

[Gary Keedwell]

No I haven't Gary. I have a couple of regular metal cutting dovetail cutters that I use.
I'm sure the router bit would work as long as you could control the size of the cut. My biggest problem with doing it with a router would be those hot aluminum chips flying EVERYWHERE! It’s bad enough with a milling machine…:rolleyes:
I have access to a Bridgeport...thinking of trying out router dovetail bit on aluminum. I suppose if I take light passes and not move it up or down but move it horizontally it should be fine.

[Bruce Page]

I have access to a Bridgeport...thinking of trying out router dovetail bit on aluminum. I suppose if I take light passes and not move it up or down but move it horizontally it should be fine.

Gary, the way to do it is to mill out most of the material with a regular straight bit and come back and finish out the slot width with the dovetail bit. My router dovetail bits have a pretty small diameter neck so for that reason I wouldn’t take more than .010-.020 per pass.

[Troy Woods]

Hi John,
I'd like the file if you can send it to me. I can't see the pictures on this post either if you happen to have them. troywoods at bmts dot com

[Jim Becker]

Hi John,
I'd like the file if you can send it to me. I can't see the pictures on this post either if you happen to have them. troywoods at bmts dot com

This is a ten year old thread, Troy. Photos are viewable by becoming a Contributor for $6 per year. Click on the "Donate" link up at the top to become a Contributor and enjoy full access to photos, private messaging, etc.

Jim
Forum Moderator