RAS setup question

[Bill Karow]

I just picked up a mid-70s Craftsman RAS. I intend to use it really only for one thing, crosscut dados on narrow pieces such as the shelves for my Nahm-esque workshop hutch.

I have two questions - why are they viewed as so unsafe? Other than the obvious fear of pulling a spinning blade towards myself, of course! The blade should hold the work to the back fence as it spins. How do they kickback? I won't be turning the blade from 90 degrees, probably ever. This particular one isn't part of the recall, I've already checked. The blade does take a loooooong time to spin down, and I wish there was a way to add an aftermarket blade brake.

Second question is correcting the accuracy. It turns out the previous owner's replacement top and fence cut at exactly 88 degrees :) My plan is to replace the top with a piece of plywood, making sure it's 90 degrees to the blade at zero. I'll then run a shallow groove into it and make *sure* it's 90 degrees, then add the fence piece and the piece behind the fence. Finally, I'm going to add two DeStaco hold-down clamps to that back piece so the shelves I'm dadoing can't shift. Does anyone see problems with that adjustment and top replacement?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Bill

[Jim Becker]

The most serious safety consideration with a RAS is when ripping...don't do it and you mitigate that risk. But while it's apparent that the blade will keep the material back towards the fence, a RAS can tend to "skate" towards you, especially if the wrong blade type is on it. Never run a table saw blade on a RAS...use a blade designed for the machine that has a negative hook angle. This will reduce the chance that the blade will crawl towards you. All that aside, the hardest thing to deal with on most RAS is keeping them in alignment. Some stay dead-on; others need constand fiddling. Hopefully, your older machine will be in the latter group!

BTW, rather than use expensive plywood for that table surface, use particle board or MDF. You will not have the chance of splintering that way as the kerf(s) develop(s) and you'll be less hesitant to replace it as needed.

[Bart Leetch]

I have a 12" Craftsman made in 1967 that was my Dads & was used for construction framing. He still has the 10" that is a few years older than than the 12" & used in the cabinet shop. We have always used particle board & then a 1/2" piece of plywood on top that can be disposed of when it gets to cut up.
When I got the saw from my Dad I glued 2 pieces of 3/4" particle board together for the sub base for the top & it has made a very stable top. I can't wait to make the new 2 piece base for this saw & my 12" compound miter saw with a whole bunch of drawers under both. Right now I have the RAS turned sideways with the CMS setting on the RAS top.

[Tom Hintz]

I also have an older Craftsman RAS and it continues to work great.
I have a story about a procedure found that really helps the alignment process. While you are replacing the table is the prefect time to do it too.
See the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/squarerastble.html

[Greg Heppeard]

I've found that instead of replacing the table of the RAS after various angle cuts have been made with it, I've filled the curf with bondo and sanded it smooth...works well and leaves witness lines for future set up.

[David Durgy]

Make sure you check your saw model and serial # here.
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

I just bought a used Craftsman a couple of weeks ago and ordered the blade guard as my model was on the list. I was not aware of the issue until I started searching for one and have no idea how much better it is than the one on the tool but it is free and I'm sure better.
I have more than a healthy respect and just enough fear when I use a RAS which oddly makes me feel comfortable using it. Just for dadoing alone it has saved so much time compared to the tablesaw.

[Jim Guy]

I purchase a used DeWalt RAS almost a year ago from a local high school. I really like the saw but have always been a little scared of it at the same time. Just a few weeks ago I got the advice from right here, ( Jim Becker I think) "get a negative hook angle blade". Just yesterday I put it on the saw for a test run. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. It saw still wants to "pull" towards me a little more than I like, but it is much, much better than before. For cutting down to size some of the larger pieces of wood it really works well for me.
Jim Guy

[Dale Thompson]

Bill,
I've got a sentimental attachment to the RAS. It was my first floor-mounted power tool and was a $99 Sears 9" from back in the late sixties. It was all I could afford. I think it is still in service.

I used the RAS for everything. Cross-cutting, ripping, ploughs, dadoes, shaping, routing, sanding, mitering, beveling, etc., even as a drill press.

I still have a 10" RAS which, I admit, is not used very often.

Using the proper blade, I don't think that the RAS in an unsafe tool. The other question is accuracy. When the saw is set up properly it can be quite accurate. Assuming proper setup, most initial users look at the blade coming toward them as some sort of a threat. That's only natural. Whatever, the result is that they grip the handle as if they were, "The Incredible Hulk"! Due to the arm on the saw, the torque which is applied with this kind of grip will NEVER give you an accurate cut. The "key" is a "soft touch". If the carriage wants to come "at" you, retard it with a "light" touch. If the carriage does the opposite, advance it with a "light" touch. That way you will not throw off the settings of the saw. Remember, the carriage can only go SO far. It's not going to chase you around the shop. :)

Dadoes are tricky. For a good one, you have to make sure that the arm (i.e. bottom of the blade) is as parallel to the table top as possible. It is also probably the best example of the necessity for a "light" touch. Let the saw do the cutting. If you try to do it with muscle, plan on using a lot of wood filler. ;) If you want to excercise your biceps, do it by holding down the wood. :cool:

Good Luck with the RAS. I just LOVE that tool - for old-times sake!!

Dale T.

[Bill Karow]

Thanks to all who responded for the help and ideas.

I took the opportunity to remove/discard the old top and square up the arm to its base. It's kind of fun investigating older machinery, figuring out where the adjustment options are hiding - as long as there's not a deadline involved! Next I'll double check the blade's perpendicular to the table, and I should have things setup for some test crosscut dados.

I will go with MDF for the top, since I have some scrap available.