Kitchen Cabinet Question

[Mark Schiller]

I'm remodeling a small kitchen and will make the face frame cabinets and doors. For the bases I like the idea of not cutting a toe-kick into the plywood sides. Since nothing is level, square or plumb in VT. I'm going to build a toe-kick base out of 2X4s that first can be leveled in place and the cabinets set on top. A 1X finished toe-kick can then be scribed to the floor. The question is what about the finished ends? Is it okay to have the finished end panels recessed with a toe kick like the front? It seems that if I build all the carcasses rectangular and try to install a conventional end panel (w/toe kick), that I'm asking for more troubles than it's worth. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Mark, I made cabinets without a toe kick, and set them on a ladder frame made out of 19mm birch plywood painted black. I installed a front strip to cover the ladder base, scribed to the floor.

The cabinet had a front toe kick, and an end toe kick (one end only), so I didn't have a finished panel to the floor.

If you want a finished panel to the floor, scribe it to fit your floor.

Regards, Rod.

[Mark Schiller]

Thanks Rod. I was looking for some validation and you nailed it. Any pictures of your project?
Mark

[Ben Grunow]

I would not use 2xs for the base as they will shrink over time. Instead rip some strips of ply and screw them together in the ladder shape referenced above.

[Dennis Hatchett]

I would not use 2xs for the base as they will shrink over time. Instead rip some strips of ply and screw them together in the ladder shape referenced above.


I agree with ben.

Careful with the 2 by 4 stock because it is quite unstable. When dealing with counter tops, trim, and drawers that could rack I'd spend a little extra on some plywood to cut up for your platform.

[Jim Becker]

I make all my cabinets with a separate toe kick. Not only can I then build plain rectangular boxes, but setting and leveling the separate toe-kick base is SO much easier. I did my whole kitchen that way in 2003 and the cabinets that are being installed in our addition, almost "as we speak", were also constructed the same way.

That said, I don't use construction lumber for the bases. I use scrap 18mm (3/4") plywood to build the frame except for the fronts which are usually 1/2" plywood left over from cutting down sheets for upper cabinets. It's either painted black or, as in the case of the wet bar carcass we installed this morning, finished the same as the cabinets.

[Bryan Froden]

Maybe this will help out, I always build the toe kicks into the sides of the cabinet (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23017468@N06/2249938148/in/photostream/) and use shims to help level it. I don’t like fooling with 2x4’s or plywood bases either, one less thing to carry.
Finished ends that run to the floor also look good, just make sure that bottom rail matches the height of the toe kick
XXXXXXXX

[Joe Chritz]

Its all I do anymore and I use scrap plywood from the carcass or CDX. I use an applied panel or 1/4 skin on exposed ends. 1/4" plywood for finished kicks.

You could also use a ledger attached to the wall and leg levelers. I still use a ladder toe kick but the sides and back are 1/2 narrower that the front. Level, screw to the wall.

Joe

[Dale Todd]

I wish I had read your postings before I made my cabinets, but I already made them with 2x4 bases. Any suggestions on making them more stable?

[Mike Spanbauer]

I use adjustable feet and the snap-on toe kicks as I can access the underneath of the cabinets should a need arise in the future (such as replacing the icemaker line.)

Plus, they are really, really easy to level

mike

[Mark Schiller]

Excellent idea about a plywood ladder base vs. 2X. Funny I was just thinking about the twisting that 2Xs can do. Thanks for the info.
Does anyone have pictures of end cabinets where the finished (visible) side does not have the panel run to the floor, but rather used a toe kick space on the cabinet's side?
Mark

[frank shic]

i agree with mike - the levelling legs make the entire installation process a lot easier. make sure you get a 15mm forstner bit and get the knock-in titus camar levelling legs from wwhardware.com

[Ben Grunow]

Dale- are they installed yet or just made and sitting around. Try to get some plywood strips in along side the 2x's from front to back that fit tight to the cab bottom and floor. Use a little PL400 to fill the gaps and shim the strips tight so there is no movement if the lumber shrinks.