Kitchen refacing

[Craig D Peltier]

I used the search key and found 4 post about refacing cabinets. They answered a few things for me but not all.

1) I only have read on here of folks taking a veneer whether hardwood or iron on type to cover there face frames. I want to rip mine off. I know its hard to say but has anyone here ripped off face frames and tried to save the boxes? This house is in neighborhood that was all built at one time. Not sure if thye would have hot glued faces on? The resaon I want new is so when you open the door it doesnt look like a two layered frame.There currently red oak and I want to change to maple.

2) My local supplier doesnt carry 1/8 maple ply to cover the ends of cabs etc. On of the post here it said someone used some Oak door skins. Are these something I may be able to get from a millworks supply place? I did find some on ebay for 60 a sheet but they have to be cut to under 36x48 for ups to ship. Thats not a big deal. My supplier tried to sell me on veneer. I dont think thats necessary or as easy as skinning with 1/8. Alos I have never veneered.

3) Applying 1/8 skins to ends etc., would you suggest roughing up the poly or lacquer coat and then using panel adhesive and tacking with pin nailer, opposed to titebond type glues.

[Matt Meiser]

I've never done refacing so I can't answer most of your questions. However with respect to veneer, there are veneers out that have a paper backing--I've even seen them at the big box stores. You can adhere those with contact cement.

As far as removing the face frames, they are usually glued on. Removing them from the boxes probably isn't going to be that easy if they are. When I tore out some cabinets in my parents bathroom recently I broke them up to haul them out. I wasn't trying to save anything, but when I would hit the face frames with a hammer, the box sides came with them and got torn from the backs.

[Jay Brewer]

Hi Craig, I do alot of refacing.I never do glue on veniers, I will let Sears have all that they want. I only do solid face frame which means the old ones have to come off. The hard ones are the cabs that are built on site, Usually in houses 30 years or older. These are not individual boxes, more like a complete unit where the shelves and the faceframe hold everything together. On these you have to support the shelves before removing the FF.

Now if your kitchen is individual boxes, it will be alot easier to remove the FF ( the box is holding itself together without the FF ) . There are a million ways to attach FF, Nails, glue and some manufacturers use dowels.
I would take a cab that could easily be replace and experiment with it. Usually all you need to remove the FF is a hammer and a block of wood. Start tapping it on one of the inside corners and it should come off.

On the ends of the cabs that show I always build a raised panel finished end ( I build all my doors anyway ) . On less obvious places I use 1/4" Maple ply finished to match the FF. I attach them with glue and 23 gauge pins. If your building new FF extend them out were there is a 1/4" panel to cover the edge of the ply. Hope this helps

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

replace the doors and drawer fronts and cover the cabinet bodies with the 1/4" veneer ply of your pleasing.
you will likely want to replace the shelves too.

Chose a material that you have confidence in mitering. I'd stay away from oak.

[Steve Clardy]

I've done 1 reface. Wasn't that hard.

I just used a hammer and tapped off the face frames from inside where they overlap the boxes.
Measure up and make new frames. If you need to cover and end cabs, just cover them with 1/4" ply, and make the frames long enough to lap over the new end panels.

[Bryan Berguson]

Craig,

I've never taken off the face frames but I did refinish a kitchen by putting new 1/4 wood over the existing ff's. It turned out really nice too. It was knotty pine and it really "fit" the kitchen. Wish I had some pictures...

Bryan

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I've recently refaced 'on-site built' birch plywood cabinets in my Mother's kitchen. They are circa 1952. I left the face frames in place but covered the outer face with veneer tape. I also painted the inside perimeter edge of the faceframe, as well as the entire interior of the cabinets, with a solid color similar to natural oak. I could have also used veneer tape on the edge too.

Since I did not remove the faceframes, I opted to use veneer tape for the cabinet sides with a false panel door in the center. The veneer tape was placed such that it looks like a typical stile and rail faceframe. Having a door panel on the side appears more pleasing to me than a plain flat plywood sheet or veneer sheet, but it's a little more work making false doors fronts.

I also veneered the entry door between the kitchen and garage using paper back veneer sheets from Rockler. I scuffed up the door with sandpaper and used traditional contact cement. It's a little pricey, but it sure beats hanging a new door and lockset. I was very pleased with the result.

-Jeff :)

[Dave Falkenstein]

Interesting that I very recently had a conversation with a cabinet refacing professional. He used to use self-adhesive veneer, but will no longer use it because it tends to become unstuck, especially in areas where there is exposure to water or heat. This company uses thin MDF veneer of the same material as the cabinets, tacked into place with pins, and the holes filled with matching putty/filler. If it were my own house, I'd follow Jay's advice and remove the face frames and install new ones that match the new doors and drawers perfectly.