Novice questions

[Larry R. Rosing]

I am a novice woodworker, with virtually no experience with hand tools. I am really confused as to the different hand planes and the various terminology whereby they are designated. For instance, the difference between "smooth, smoother, jack, bench, fore, jointer plane" etc. It doesn't seem to to be just the length of the sole. Is it the width of the opening, the angle of the blade, etc. Perhaps there is another thread that will explain all this, or something online.

Thanks for your help, Larry

[Clint Jones]

http://www.tjmahaffey.com/workshop/downloads/PlaneInfo.pdf

[Brian Dormer]

I am a novice woodworker, with virtually no experience with hand tools. I am really confused as to the different hand planes and the various terminology whereby they are designated. For instance, the difference between "smooth, smoother, jack, bench, fore, jointer plane" etc. It doesn't seem to to be just the length of the sole. Is it the width of the opening, the angle of the blade, etc. Perhaps there is another thread that will explain all this, or something online.

Thanks for your help, Larry

I'll give this a shot -

The shorter (length) planes are, typically smoothing planes, they are typically numbered according to the old Stanley models 1,2,3 and 4. A #4 is about 10 inches long. In the middle of the pack is the #5 jack (of all trades?) plane at about 14 inches long. The jack is used to get somewhat rough stock smoothed down in preparation for the Jointer planes (6,7 and 8) which are usually 20+ inches long. A #6 Jointer plane is is sometimes referred to as a fore plane (I have no idea why).

The general progression is - cut down a tree, rip some slabs (using a ripsaw). You then start with a scrub plane to get it sort-of-flat. Move on to a jack plane to smooth it more. Switch to a jointer to get it really smooth. Then finish with a smooth plane and/or a scraper plane.

If you google around - you'll find some fine sites that discuss all the variations (some are quite odd) of hand planes. There are also some videos that show the various planes in action (especially the #5's and #7's). The naming conventions (and numbering systems) will drive you mad - they aren't really logical - they just are what they are.

Hope that helps.

[Pedro Reyes]

Larry,

If you enjoy reading, The Handplane book is a must. It is a very nice book with stunning pictures, not essential it is just a good read IMHO.

Firstly different regions call the same thing by different names, trying plane is a term (for example) seldom used in the US.

Now let me try to oversimplify this, if I was forced to group planes into 4 categories I would do it this way: Bench, Block, Special Purpose/Joinery, and Moulding. We can group them into many more groups, just my first shot.

So bench and smother are not different planes but rather a smoother is considered a bench plane (dog is a mamal kinda thing).

Bench Planes
Smooth (or smoother), Jack, Fore/trying, Jointer... all these are Bench Planes, and are mentioned in order of size, usually blade width grows with size.

Block Planes:
These are smaller planes with their blade set at a considerably more acute angle (~12-22). Used for a variety of things, most common use is trimming endgrain.

Special Purpose/Joinery:
These are too numerous to list and I would do a bad job at describing them as I own very few of them. But for the most part they are used to cut rabbets, dadoes, grooves, curves... etc.

Moulding Planes:
These are used to cut moulding, so generally they have an iron (cutter) which has a profile, and the sole matches it.

That is pretty much the house version of the answer. Purists may scold me and with right, tell me I've missed a bunch of categories, but for the most part I believe this granularity is enough to start

Hope this helps

To answer a question I saw: Fore planes are believed to be called that because they were used just before final dimensioning/smoothing. Trying planes supposedly get their name from the trial and error procedure of using winding sticks to flatten a board


/p

[Larry R. Rosing]

Thanks a lot everyone!

I'm looking forward to learning more. I have three planes that were given to me and a Craftsman block plane I bought years ago. I'm looking forward to at least knowing what I have!

[Robert Rozaieski]

Modern day names of planes can be very confusing (jack, block, fore, try, jointer, etc.). This is because modern day manufacturers like Stanley named their planes only based on the length, not necessarily on the intended use. For one version of some traditional naming conventions, look in Peter Nicholson's 1831 book, "The Mechanic's Companion". It's available here:

http://www.wkfinetools.com/z_tDownL/howTo/1831-MechanicsCompanion/mechCompanion-down.asp

Look in the section on Joiney. I believe it starts around page eighty something. The names are somewhat similar to modern day but he leaves out the fore plane (because, I believe, this was traditionally more a cabinetmaker's plane than a joiners/carpenter's plane) and includes a jack plane and a "long" plane (which is basically a longer try plane, for trying very long stock, not necessarily a jointer plane).

The basic bench plane sequence for preparing stuff by hand is:

Fore Plane (about 16-18") - First plane used on rough stock, be"FORE" other planes. This plane is sometimes called a jack plane today, but generally jack planes were/are shorter than fore planes and longer than smooth planes and, I believe, used more by traveling joiners & carpenters who needed a "Jack of all trades" than by shop bound cabinetmakers. Stanley calls their #6 a fore plane, but this is based only on it's 18" length. I occasionally use my #6 as a fore plane but it is awful heavy to use to take thick shavings typical when roughing a board. It's better suited as a short try plane for shorter stock. I'm looking for a good wooden fore plane but for now I usually use a #5 instead as it's lighter than the #6, though (in my opinion) it's a little short for use as a fore plane.

Try Plane (longer than the Fore plane, about 22-26") - Long plane used after the fore plane to "TRY" stock. Trying was also known as truing or as we know it, flatening/straightening.

Smooth Plane (about 7-9") - Final plane used to put finish surface on pieces.

I don't consider a true jointer plane (about 24"+) a bench plane, it's actually more of a joinery plane like a rabbet plane or moving fillester (hench I grind mine with a straight iron, no camber). It's main purpose is to make an extremely straight and flat edge for gluing boards into wide panels. It's usually used while match planing two boards at the same time.

Joinery planes and molding planes are entirely different from the bench planes. Nicholson has some good explanations. I have not gotten an opportunity to read Moxon yet but I'm itching to. Gotta find a copy.