corded vs. cordless? your vote = my purchase...(Long)

[Deuce Lee]

NOTE: POLL is CORDLESS for FIRST option.

I put out a thread a couple days ago asking if people still use their corded tools but let me give you situation and maybe you can help me out.

BACKGROUND: I purchased the Ridgid 8 piece kit for $270 and planned on keeping it. Then I thought why go half way when you should either go full blown corded or cordless but more powerful like Ridgid's 24volt lithium. I sold the individual tools on ebay for $400 net (not including shipping). I kept the circular saw because it was suitable for the 24volt battery. I plan on buying the TS3650 in the next month or two.

PROBLEM: I can't choose between going full power corded or cordless. I'm just a occasional DIY and tool addict. I want to get something that I shouldn't have to get again.

CORDLESS CHOICES: Tools of the Trade review of Lithium tools say Ridgid's 24volt line is solid. Not as good as more expensive V28 milwaukee's or 36v bosch and so forth but Ridgid is at about 1/2 the cost and performs nearly as good. My estimate for the cost for the Ridgid = $401.92 out the door for the Hammer drill, 2 batteries, charger, Recip saw, Jig saw. Again, I already got the circular saw. I will sell the circular saw for about $50 if I go corded.

CORDED CHOICES: Makita 4351FCT $163 (http://www.tools-plus.com/makita-4351fct.html) or Bosch 1591 $158 (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1591EVSK-6-4-Barrel-Grip/dp/B00067J3WS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202298628&sr=1-2)for Jig saw. Leaning towards the Makita for LED and being different. Great ratings on Amazon for the prior 4341FCT. Recip saw choices are: Hitachi CR13BY (http://www.tools-plus.com/hitachi-cr13vby.html) $120 on sale or Milwaukee 6523-21 (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6523-21-Sawzall-Reciprocating-Rotating/dp/B0009RWLGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202298851&sr=1-3) $159. Circular saws are Makita 5007MG (http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007MG-4-Inch-Magnesium-Circular/dp/B000N5SVEY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202298971&sr=1-5)$139 or Milwaukee 6390-20 (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6390-20-Tilt-Lok-Circular-Tilting/dp/B000022472/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202298971&sr=1-6)$129. So the total can be anywhere from $407 to $461.

FOR CORDLESS: I will be having the TS for big rips so I figure the power of the cordless circular should suffice for small jobs. The convenience of no cord is very appealing. I don't use it everyday, 8hrs/day. I was affraid of replacing batteries, thats why I'm going with Ridgid.

FOR CORDED: Brutal power. No batteries to worry about.

Please throw in your 2 cents. I'm REALLY on the fence on this one. Thanks in advance.

[Deuce Lee]

NOTE: The first option should say CORDLESS, not corded twice. Sorry.

[Prashun Patel]

IMHO, the single most important tools I own are 2 cordless drills. I'd get an 18v LiIon full set w/2 batteries and then buy a 2nd tool body on ebay when you get some xtra $$. You'll prefer the convenience of cordless here.

I don't see the benefit to a cordless circ saw. Especially if you have a tsaw, the csaw will be used infrequently, and with large sheet goods. Bkz of dust and space, y'll probably end up cutting all sheets in the same place, so as long as there's an outlet there, you won't need cordless.

Everything else is a toss up. I like cordless recip saws bkz they're used in weird positions and on ladders.

[Deuce Lee]

those are some good points Shawn...

well, tools of the trade says the new lithium tools, especially the higher voltage ones have made circular saws alot better then they use to be, and again, ofcourse it's still not close to the cord but it's better then before, and it's just for occasional sawing, in case i need to take it outside quickly for stuff...

yeah i already got the 1.5Ah ridgid compact drill, nice, light and powerfull, 460 in lb of torque, and if i add the 24volt set, that comes with a heavier drill that puts out 610 in lb of torque...

i'm just considering the corded power because they are just brutal tough compared to the cordless tools, but again, since i'm going to be having the TS, i'm thinking i can get away with the cordless to compliment it :(:confused::o

[Eric DeSilva]

Corded v. cordless strikes me as being dependent on a lot of factors -- How much time do you spend where there is no outlet? How much is sheer power a factor? While battery powered tools have a convenience factor in maneuverability, where does that come into play for you and how important is that?

I've got an 18v Lion Makita kit, but--in retrospect--probably should have just bought the drill and driver. I tried to help demo a deck w/the cordless recip saw, but it ran out of juice pretty quick. When I reach for a circ saw, I'm reaching for my TS55 or Dewalt. Doesn't have battery jigsaw, but I've never smacked myself on the head and said "Darn, wish my Bosch was battery powered."

Really comes down to where and how you use your tools.

[Don Bullock]

Deuce, both of your poll choices say corded so I can't figure out which one to mark.


...
PROBLEM: I can't choose between going full power corded or cordless. I'm just a occasional DIY and tool addict. I want to get something that I shouldn't have to get again....
FOR CORDLESS: I will be having the TS for big rips so I figure the power of the cordless circular should suffice for small jobs. The convenience of no cord is very appealing. I don't use it everyday, 8hrs/day. I was affraid of replacing batteries, thats why I'm going with Ridgid.

FOR CORDED: Brutal power. No batteries to worry about.

Please throw in your 2 cents. I'm REALLY on the fence on this one. Thanks in advance.

Interesting post--

Cordless tools seem to be getting a lot better. They have one problem, however, for the occasional DIYer IMHO - batteries need to be charged. I can't count the number of times I've reached for one of my cordless tools only to find that the battery was dead. Yes, I even have two batteries for each of them, but it's not safe to leave them in the charger. People who constantly use their cordless tools don't have this problem because they are using the batteries that have been recently charged.

[Peter Quadarella]

Another thing to consider is cost. The cordless tend to be more expensive. Before I got serious about woodworking, I went out and bought a whole bunch of cordless tools. I even have a cordless compound miter saw. I use them all and think they are great.

However, in retrospect, some of the items were more expensive than their corded counterparts with little gain. It's handy being able to carry that miter saw around with no cord, but I don't really need it to have no cord. Same with my circular saw. I like having a cordless jigsaw because of the curves, and the reciprocating saw tends to get carried around a bit so cordless is nice. Drill - cordless is the way to go IMO.

If I were to do it all over, I would use my current rule and only buy tools as I needed them for a specific reason. Then I would evaluate each individual tool for cordless or not. I would probably get a cordless drill from a line that I liked so that if I decided to go cordless with another tool I could stay with the same set.

I have 3 batteries so batteries are never an issue. I always leave 2 in the charger and have for 3 years now with no issue.

[Eric Haycraft]

Cordless tools seem to be getting a lot better. They have one problem, however, for the occasional DIYer IMHO - batteries need to be charged. I can't count the number of times I've reached for one of my cordless tools only to find that the battery was dead. Yes, I even have two batteries for each of them, but it's not safe to leave them in the charger. People who constantly use their cordless tools don't have this problem because they are using the batteries that have been recently charged.

This is one of the main reasons that an occasional DIYer should only buy lithium ion batteries. They don't drain nearly as fast when left unused. You should be able to pick up a battery 6 months after a charge and still have full power.

Another note.. 24 volt cordless tools are very heavy.. I would not suggest buying them as primary tools.

Eric

[Deuce Lee]

This is one of the main reasons that an occasional DIYer should only buy lithium ion batteries. They don't drain nearly as fast when left unused. You should be able to pick up a battery 6 months after a charge and still have full power.

Another note.. 24 volt cordless tools are very heavy.. I would not suggest buying them as primary tools.

Eric

Don, like i mentioned, that was an error on my part, the first Option should be CORDLESS, not both being corded...

Eric, I'm thinking of going 24volt because of the power, when the circular saw, or jig saw is being worked, it's sitting on some wood, thus weight isn't as big of a factor, it probably makes the tool more stable...

the recip saw uses 2 hands, thus helps with the weight issue, again, I have Ridgid's compact lithium drill already, 4lbs flat or so, 460 in lbs, does the job for everyday lifting, the 24volt hammer drill with 610 in lbs of torque is 6.7 lbs, and would be used for more heavy duty drilling, so basically i'm trying to get the best of both words with the cordless...and yes, i'm following your logic for the DIYer for lithium...

man choices like this sucks, a part of me already wants to jump into the cordless side, but a part of me is holding me back saying go for corded because i'm going to be using it around the house most of the time...:mad:

[Brodie Brickey]

Take a serious look at the situation.

Where will you use it?

-Around the house & yard? - Corded
-At a site or cabin you're building - cordless
Drill / Drivers - Cordless as others have said.
Circular Saw - Cord unless you're building in the wilderness
Reciprocating Saw - I can understand cordless here, but would definitely want one with a cord also. Requires too much power.
Hammer Drill - (ie masonry drilling) cord for power.

For a drill/driver I would also have a lighter version 12v or so. I have a hitachi that I'm very happy with. It drills pocket holes and all the other stuff I need.

One of the things I noticed about all these 'cordless' sets was that I was shelling out a lot of $$$ for a bunch of tools I might only use once a year. I was paying a premium for cordless without the power and it was for around the house and yard.

I don't have experience with the new 24v/28v lines that are out there. I can say that I have an old 18v drill. When I bought the new Hitachi 12v, it was lighter, charged the battery in 15 minutes or so and came with a spare. That was a vast improvement for me and I've been very happy with it.

[Peter Quadarella]

The lighter drills are really nice to have. I have an 18v hammer drill (drills through my brick walls with not much problem) but I usually reach for my 14.4v if it is nearby because of the weight. The 18v is fine and I use it a lot, it just has more weight and power than I usually need and it's great to have a lighter alternative.

[matt tennessen]

When it comes to hammer drills/drivers I have used the Ridgid ones you're looking at and I can't say anything but great things about them. Lithium Ion batteries last and are lightweight. As long as you have a couple of batteries ready to go, cordless drills are the best. I wouldn't rely on the hammer drill's battery if I was putting holes in concrete all day, but for limited, "nice to know its there" moments, don't worry about it. I keep hearing about the improvements in saws but I just don't think you can beat a corded saw. That being said, I DO have a cordless circ saw that I have primarily for cutting sheet goods down to workable size when I don't want/can't drag the corded worm drive. If that's all you're really looking to do with it, I'd keep the circ saw. If you're doing a lot of cutting elsewhere, a corded saw is a better saw for the money. As far as jigsaws go, I would find one with a cord. I have used some NiCad cordless jigs and I HATED it. They are always losing power when you need it. I'm sure Lithium ones are a little better but the power and reliability of a something with a cord is comforting. As far as a recip saw, plumbers and electricians I know love their cordless ones because they're convenient and they aren't using it nonstop. Some people prune trees with their cordless ones. If I demo a kitchen however, I look for something with a cord and an extension cord. It really depends on use. I continue to debate this same topic with myself everytime I look at a new tool. Good luck!

[Jason Koon]

I have a bunch of cordless (drill, recip, circular saw, jig saw).. I think other than drivers/drills and maybe recip saws, I would only go corded.. New batteries are way too much $$ and the tool ends up being heavier. I, however, never do any work where I don't have power available.. Might be a different story if you're working out of the back of a truck.


I wish I didn't have to drop money into new batteries for old tools.. be nicer to drop that money into more tools or new replacements.

[Prashun Patel]

The liIon batts make the 18v drivers pretty light. My bro-in-law has a Makita LiIon 18v and it's lighter than my 14.4 NiMh.

If yr getting a tsaw and putting this much thought into it, y'll be using yr tools more than you anticipate. I know I do. I leave my batteries capped and recharged after each 'major' use. They haven't failed me yet. In the worse case, you have to wait 15mins for a recharge.

That being said, there are times a corded can't be beat: drilling pocket holes and high rpm apps like drilling bradpt holes. Post to this thread in 1 year. I'll bet you'll have bought BOTH a cordless and a corded.

Off topic: One thing I wouldn't invest in is a hammer drill (corded or otherwise). It's too specialized. The only thing it's good for is drilling small holes in concrete. Depending on yr app, concrete work can require either a hammer drill, a rotary hammer, or a chipping hammer. They all have merits and are all expensive (not to mention the specialized bits you'd need). I'd RENT these when the time comes.

[Peter Quadarella]

A lot of 18v cordless drills are also hammer drills. My Bosch is - it's just an extra setting on the drill and a detachable handle (usually leave it detached).

[Randal Stevenson]

I wonder if your subconsious mind is talking (Freudin typo on the poll)?

If money is no object, then I would keep your cordless CS for the time you need to run to the borg without a truck (fitting things in the vehicle with known measurements).
With the exception of a cordless drill, I tend to use things when I need them, harder then the batteries last, BUT I don't have the budget for 36v tools either.

Other then the drills (if you HAVE to sell your CS), I would chose one of the two corded options on your poll.

[Deuce Lee]

i guess the best way to solve this would be to get both :p

i don't think that's neccessary for my situation though...

well, thanks for your 2 cents so far everyone, they are good thoughts...i'll review them more later today...good points on each side...

[Eric Haycraft]

The lighter drills are really nice to have. I have an 18v hammer drill (drills through my brick walls with not much problem) but I usually reach for my 14.4v if it is nearby because of the weight. The 18v is fine and I use it a lot, it just has more weight and power than I usually need and it's great to have a lighter alternative.

A lithium ion 18 volt is roughly the same weight as a 14.4 nicad, so I tend to see the 18v as the best power/weight drill.

A cordless sawsall looks nice on paper, but in practical terms it isn't all it is cracked up to be. I have a v28 one and was able to completely drain the battery in about 10 minutes with it cutting up pallets. Don't get me wrong, I like having it, but it can't replace my corded sawsall. It is relegated to use on small jobs.

I used to have an 18 volt nicad circular saw. There was only one time in my life that I was thankful that I had that saw. That occasion came when I had to cut up a fiberglass tub/surround. My mother now has that saw and I don't want it returned. I now have a v28 circular saw and don't really expect it to be used much at all either (I got my v28 kit for 250 bucks and only got it for the sawsall and drill, so the csaw didn't cost me anything). My festool is my goto circular saw. Remember that cordless tools don't have dust collection.

Now that I have bashed cordless saws..
As others have said, cordless drills are great. However, I don't think that you appreciate the difference in weight between 4 and 7 pounds. It is substantial and any overhead work with a 7 pound drill will kill your arms. I have also never run into a situation where my 18v wouldn't cut it and the v28 would have been better. Cordless drills are great and with two batteries they can usually charge in less time than you can drain them. A good impact driver and a nice drill/hammerdrill will get you through almost any situation. I do still have a corded drill and wouldn't dream of selling it because there are situations where you will be doing so much work that you don't want to deal with changing batteries and power is close enough to just plug the thing in. I have a cordless impact driver..that is the only thing that I reach for for driving screws. Between my 18v dewalt and the v28 milwaukee, the 18 is the first one that gets reached for. The 28 sits around unless I am switching between three bits and don't want to rechuck everything - it is just way to heavy to be the go-to drill. There is a reason that you see most contractors using 12-18 volt drills, they are much easier to handle. I got my v28 set from a contractor for 1/3 of its original cost because he never used them, they weighed too much to be practical.

Another bright spot for cordless is jig saws. I have an 18v jigsaw and love it. It is my only jigsaw and it is nice to not have a cord to deal with on that. The only reason that I got mine cordless was because I didn't have a corded one and it cost me little more than a plug in model since I didn't need batteries when I got it. I definitely don't regret that purchase.

So, from my personal experience:
Cordless csaw - don't waste your money
Cordless drill/hammerdrill - buy 2 or more
Impact driver - not exactly required, but you would have to kill me to take mine away from me.
Cordless jig saw - very nice, but certainly not required.
Cordless sawsall - again, don't waste your money unless you already have a corded one. They are useless for substantial demo jobs.

Corded saw - required
Corded drill - required

Stick with 18 volt lithium ion models or 12-14 volt with standard batteries. They are the best in terms of weight and power. If you really feel obligated to get a 24 plus volt set, post a WTB on CL and I am sure you will find people willing to sell theirs for next to nothing.

[Prashun Patel]

i guess the best way to solve this would be to get both...i don't think that's neccessary for my situation though...

Again, post back in a year. You'll have both :)

[Greg Muller]

First tool: cordless for convenience and 90% of your projects.

Second tool: corded drill for power, rotational speed, etc. Go out and drop $20 on a HF corded impact drill. It is really useful for the cinderblock/concrete drilling and if you ever use pocketholes, then the increased speed (turn off the impact) is a huge benefit.

Greg

[brad kellner]

for drills and jigsaws i would go cordless. cordless is way more convienient that norded but corded tools do have their place also. i own that same ridgid 18v cordless kit that you mentioned. i also have another ridgid cordless 18v 1/2 chuck drill. and i bought an extra ridgid 18v 1/2 chuck drill body on ebay for 15 bucks. i also have a bosch brute 18v with lituim ion batteries and when i bought it they just came out and it came with a rebate for a free bosch brute litium ion 18v cordless jigsaw. all together i have;
1 ridgid 18v cordless hammer drill (great tools when u only have to drill 10-20 whole in concrete, for bigger jobs requiring more wholes or bigger whole than 5/16 i use my sds drill. but if u arent anchoring in concrete a whole lot this is a great tool
3 ridgid 18v 1/2 chuck cordless drills. (great drills for the price, on high speen they dont have the torque of my bosch in high speen but when put into high torque the work great for boring large whole saws or augers.
2 ridgid 18v cordless impact drivers (these are the greatest tools for driving screws ever created and i will never be without one agian, the only problem is you will break phillips tips often so stock up the bits are cheap)
1 18v cordless ridgid caulking gun (never used it so i cant judge it yet)
1 18v 6 1/2 ridgid cordless circular saw. (great for small odd and end jobs but for larger jobs a 7 1/4 corded circ saw is the way to go)
1 18v ridgid jig saw (havent used it yet, already had a bosch cordless jig saw and have been using it, my friend has it though and loves it)
1 18v planer (never used it cant judge it, i have a 6" grizzly jointer so it really isnt any use for me)
1 18v bosch cordless litium ion jigsaw (i love this tool it is great and havent even used my ridgid becuase i like it so much)
and i have more cordless tools, and i do really like them alot, but you cannot really judge cordless vs corded. 18vt cordless drills are really as big as you want to go. with 24v u are just lugging around a big and heavy drill when there isnt really any need for it. the only 2 tools i could understand going 24v would be a hammer drill (or a 24v sds drill) or a 24v circular saw. besides those two tools honestly your wasting money for more power than you will ever need. i work industrial construction for one of the biggest companies in my state and we dont use many 24v cordless tools becuase for the money of the tool and the batteries there isnt a whole lot that u really need 24v of power for to make it worth drilling above your head with those big heavy ass batteries.

in my honest opinion your best bet would be to buy another 18v ridgid cordless combo kit (hammerdrill, saws all, jigsaw, circular saw, and impact driver) and then going on ebay and buy a bare 18v 1/2 chuck cordless drill body and then buy a twin charger and stock up on batteries. this is just my opinion and for a tool junkie who buys any tool he desires no matter what it is going to cost me. i couldnt justify going to 24v. but opinions are like buttwhole , everyone has them

[Chase Gregory]

Again, post back in a year. You'll have both :)

Agreed!

(I'm down to 7 drills and 2 drill presses and feel kinda vunerable.)

Get the cordless - it sounds like you'll get more enjoyment from them (and it is important to *enjoy* your purchase) and you'll certainly be more pleased w/ the convienence of a cordless drill/driver the majority of the time.

When you exhaust the convienence of the CS or realize you need to bore a 4" hole in 1/4" plate steel you can run out and pick up a corded counterpart as needed...

Chaser