Sharpening Question???

[John Terefenko]

This is a two part question. First how do you sharpen a spindlemaster.??? I have tried sharpening the flat side but am not getting the same results as when it was new.
Second how do you sharpen scrapers of any kind??? I have tried to use a diamond stone and touch up the profile filing upwards in hope of getting a burr at the top flat of the tool. Is this right?? Again not getting the best results.

[David Walser]

Just a few days ago, I posted the same question. It's one of the few times the Creek has been dry in terms of helpful responses. (Several suggested that I just needed to hone the flat top of the tool and that I should not try to touch up the bevel. My problem was that the I needed to touch up the bevel. I'd ruined it by trying to grind it free hand.) Anyway, today I learned the answer to the question of how to touch up the bevel:

If you have access to a Tormek slow speed grinder and Tormek's Gouge Jig (SVD-185), you place the Spindlemaster in the jig with a 3" protrusion and a jig setting of 1. Then, using the "marker method" match the bevel angle and grind away. Regrade the stone to 1000 grit and lightly grind to remove the scratches left from the 220 grit grinding, then hone the edge on the leather wheel to produce a mirror finish like the one that came from the factory. As a final step, hone the flat top of the tool to remove any burr left by sharpening the bevel.

You could reproduce the bevel angle with a Wolverine jig (using the Vari-grind holder) or the Tru-grind jig. However, even with a slow speed grinder and a 120 grit wheel, you'll spend a lot of time with emory cloth hand polishing the bevel if you hope to reproduce the mirror finish that came from the factory. (I'm not sure a mirror finish is important. If it is, the Tormek seems like the better option.)

Hope this helps.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Thanks for the insight, Dave.

As for scrapers, I turn the scraper so that the top side is down. Set the angle to the existing one. This should give you a Burr, as you will be grinding from the back to the front, even with the Jet grinder you have.

Bruce

[Ben Gastfriend]

I use the existing tool rest that came with my grinder, adjust the angle so it matches the scraper's angle, then grind. I use a diamond file to get the burr. I'm sure Bruce's solution would work as well.

[Reed Gray]

For scrapers, I have a dedicated tool rest on the grinder set at 75 to 80 degrees. I first take the scraper to a diamond stone and remove the old burr, then to the grinder. I do apply some pressure to the tool, pushing it into the wheel, and this raises a nice fresh burr. I never had any luck with the burnishers, I could never get as good of a burr that way. You don't have to hold it upside down to get a burr. I have tried the negative rake scrapers, and while I think they are excellent for beginners (almost impossible to get a catch), I prefer the standard ones.

I do have the Spindle masters, and like them, even though I don't turn many spindles. So far, the medium diamond hones have kept them in shape. Using the super fine one doesn't do enough.

robo hippy

[EDDIE GLAZE]

I Agree With Reed The Only Diferenc Is I Use A Burnishing Tool.i Grinde The Scraper, Hone The Top Of The Scraper Then Burnish It. There Was A Previous Thread On Grinding The Spindel Master, It Was Mentioned Grinding The Bevel Using Onway Vari Grind,or Simmiler Ones. It Works. I Also Have A Dedicated Tool Rest For Scrapers. Happy Turning.