rasp vs. scrub plane

[Mike Steinhilper]

if i'm removing a lot of stock for a bevel, not necessarily flattening boards, which is more efficient, a rasp or a scrub plane?

[Robert Rozaieski]

I would typically use a block plane set to take a thick cut. Scrub plane typically has a heavily cambered iron which would not results in a flat bevel. Rasp seems like too much finish work afterward to clean it up. Block plane leaves a finished surface, especially if you take thinner shavings for the last several passes.

[Brian Kent]

A lot of stock as in 1/4", 1"…?

[Doug Shepard]

I've had a similar thought lately (though not for a bevel) and wondered if the new Lie-Nielsen Floats wouldn't work well. Waiting to see what kind of answers you get.

[Tom Saurer]

I haven't used rasps much, so I can't speak for them. As for the scrub planes, they remove A LOT of wood at a time and leave a rough finish. Depending on what you're making, it might be better to use a coarse jack plane or even a jaw.

[Pedro Reyes]

For bevels, I put a fence on my 5 or 5-1/2, it goes quick. If no fence is available, mark on face and ends and plane to those lines, I would start with my #5 and maybe tune with a block plane.

/p

[Mike Steinhilper]

To answer one of the questions... it's quite a bit of stock. It's a wide bevel under a table top, probably 3" wide and tapering from about 3/4". I started using my #5 but that will take an eternity. Anyone use a drawknife?

[Clint Jones]

How about a drawknife or large gouge followed by the No.5????

[Dave Anderson NH]

I have used a drawknife for the quick wasting away of the bulk of the stock and then switched to a spokeshave for the final cleanup and finishing. A well tuned spokeshave is very fast and leaves a surface ready for your finish.

[Brian Kent]

Draw knife follwed by a #5 plane, or a power tool like a a table saw or jig saw or router, followed by a #5 plane or block plane.

[Peter Tremblay]

I don't think this will be helpful but a timber framing slick might work well too. If you have one.

Peter

[Wiley Horne]

Mike,

I suggest a cambered blade plane for this job, but not as heavily cambered as a scrub. More like a cambered jack or fore plane. If table top is curved, a shave will be very useful, as Dave A. says.

Problem I have with a scrub--and maybe this is just me--is that in figured wood it's always operating right at the limit of my ability to control it. Especially in figured wood. In the situation you describe, if the plane tears a shaving out that runs up into live wood on the edge....well, I don't want to go there....If you can plane with favorable grain all the way, there's not much risk with the scrub. I'd just prefer to drive a little slower with the jack or fore, and get there in one piece.

Wiley

[Wiley Horne]

This is a postscript to my last.....

If you have 'em, a moving filletster and/or a plough might be the very best things for you to start with, because you can take a pretty deep bite with the fence and depth stops giving you good control. Hog off some wood, and then start in with bench planes and shaves.

Wiley

[Steve Hamlin]

A slick - perhaps with a few crosscuts as firebreaks - these things'll give a whole colony of beavers an inferiority complex if given free rein.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Drawknife is what I'd try. Nice accurate tool that allows skewing to handle grain changes easily. A rasp is a great tool, and if used properly, will leave a nice surface, however, for this job, they will take a too long. Finish with a longer plane, like the #5.

Have you tried just sawing to a line for the rough out then cleaning up with a plane? Probably faster yet.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Wiley, I hear you on the scrub... that advice is well taken. I think I'll give the drawknife a shot.