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Rick Beko
02-02-2008, 10:24 PM
I recently purchased an old lathe that I am converting to variable speed. To do this I purchased the Teco EV Micro drive model JNEV-101-H1. It is connected via 115v 1PH in and 220v 3PH out to a 1HP inverter motor. Using the face panel controls this set up work great.
http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manu...stallation.pdf

Now what I am trying to do is get some external controls working...run, stop, reverse and variable speed. I picked up a square box, face plate, set up all the F-functions and wired up the switches. Long story short I have the potentiometer (variable speed) working but that is it. I am thinking my choice in buttons may be the problem. I am using 24 gauge wire only because I had it. Do I need heavier wire? I realized this morning the switch I intended to use would not work so I went out this morning and picked up three separate buttons for run, stop and reverse.

This is the button I purchased for reverse
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=2751566 (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Switches+Switches&product=2751566)

These are the two buttons I purchased for run and stop
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=2750609 (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750609)

All three are momentary push button switches with SPST contacts rated a 1.5A.

I have one wire from the run switch going to terminal 4(S1), one wire from the reverse switch going to terminal 5(S2) and one wire from the stop switch going to terminal 6(S3). The other wire from all of these switches are connected to the common terminal 8. I can get the VFD to drive the motor using the controls on the drive but when I convert the settings to drive from external switches only the variable speed works.

Any suggestions?

Ken Deckelman
02-02-2008, 11:10 PM
If it's like my Teco FM50 VFD, then you need a switch that stays ON, not momentary switch's. On my metal lathe I used a DPDT, 3 position switch (ON-OFF-ON) for the direction control. The 24 gauge wire is fine as these are low voltage controls.

Hope this helps...

Alan Schaffter
02-03-2008, 12:10 AM
I am not familiar with that VFD, but could be a number of problems- incorrect wiring, jumper not removed or installed, wrong type of switch like Ken says, or you need to change a program default to enable remote operation.

Rick Christopherson
02-03-2008, 2:58 AM
If it's like my Teco FM50 VFD, then you need a switch that stays ON, not momentary switch's. No, this is not correct, even for your model VFD. Your model VFD will support momentary stop/start controls, but it is simply a matter of configuring the VFD to accept them. It will do it by default, but you need to configure the auxiliary relay to serve as the self-sustaining relay for the controls. For the FM50, this is just a single parameter setting. (I do have a schematic for this.)

For the original poster, what you are trying to do is fine, and no, you do not need to use larger wire. I would troubleshoot your connections, but it is way too late at night for me to look this up or even think about it properly. I do know that all of these functions are described in your manual, and if I remember to come back to this thread in the morning, I can help you. If not, chances are someone else will have already answered this before I get up.

Rick Beko
02-03-2008, 10:20 AM
I can change the polarity of the drive with a dip switch. It also has a different terminal to connect to whether the polarity is PNP or NPN...Is this what is meant since my switch are always open.

Rick Beko
02-03-2008, 10:39 AM
Rick, when I first wired up the switches I had a wire on terminal 3 which is the PNP common connection. I cannot remember how the dip switch was set but the stop button was working. If I move the common wire from terminal 8 to terminal 3 I should be in business. I guess I will also have to change dip switch 1 to PNP. Am I on the right track?

Rick Christopherson
02-03-2008, 2:12 PM
Rick,
First off, your hyperlink to the manual is no good, but that is actually the good news, because when I searched for your part number I came across your duplicate posting at the Practical Machinist forum, which does have a good hyperlink and some good answers.

That is the worst manual I have seen for a VFD! :mad:

As was already stated over there, set F6 to 002 to give you the 3-wire On/Off control. 3-wire control means that it uses momentary push buttons with "ON" being normally open/push to close, and "OFF" being normally closed/push to open.

I cannot make heads or tails of the pinout in the manual, but the following schematic is one I put together for another person that has the FM50 VFD. There is a good chance that your pinouts are the same as the FM50, so this might work. At a minimum, it might give you some ideas to try.
FM50manual.jpg (http://powertoolman.home.att.net/tempgraphics/FM50manual.jpg)

Is there a better manual than the one you hyperlinked to? Teco manuals are usually a lot larger than this.

Oh, by the way, the NPN and PNP stuff simply means that the inputs at S1-S4 are either activated with 24 volts, or with ground. It is bad nomenclature because it is referring to transistors, and should never have been used in the manual for this application. I can never remember which is which, but I believe PNP means that the inputs are "active-high", which means that when they get 24 volts, they turn on. For "Active-low", it means that when the inputs are connected to ground, they turn on.

Rick Christopherson
02-03-2008, 2:27 PM
In comparing my schematic with your manual, the Run/Stop in my schematic should be connected to your S1. The "REV" connection in my schematic probably is not needed in your system. The blue wire in my schematic is the "Stop" switch, which is normally closed. The red wire is "ON" which is normally open. The FM50 uses 12 volts, but yours uses 24 volts. Connect the red circuit to your 24 volt output. (by the way, you don't need to use any color coding. I am just referring to the colors of the lines in my schematic.)

To use the "Multi-function output" as the self-sustaining relay for the 3-wire switches, leave F21 at its factory default setting of "000", which means this output is active when the VFD is running.

Rick Christopherson
02-03-2008, 2:55 PM
..Is this what is meant since my switch are always open.Just in case you didn't notice this in my previous posting, your Off switch cannot be "always open".

Rick Beko
02-11-2008, 1:15 AM
Thanks for all the assistance. Here are some pics of my set up. If I choose to upgrade my lathe I just need to remove the motor.

Anthony Diodati
03-16-2013, 10:58 AM
I am trying to do the same thing, I did PM the OP, but, Rick Christopherson, do you still have the FM50manual.jpg (http://powertoolman.home.att.net/tempgraphics/FM50manual.jpg) you linked to?
Here is what I PMed the OP , I will copy paste it here.
According to the Amps, I am guessing 14 AWG is heavy enough.

I got the same JNEV 101-H1 as you got, and will be wanting to set up external controls.
What did you finally come up with?
I am starting to understand a little bit, but the manual is not clear to me, nor am I real good with electrical. I know the basics only.
For you stop start switches, did you end up with one normally open and one normally closed
momentary contact switch.
What about the reverse switch, is that a 3 position, on,off,reverse, and again is it momentary contact, or does it stay on. Did you have to add a relay to the set up?

Is there like a "quick checklist" you could give me, as how this thing is wired, what type of switches, and what to set the perimeters to.
Also, was 14 AWG wire heavy enough to wire from the power source to the VDF, and from the VDF to the Motor?
Thanks, Tony


Rick,
First off, your hyperlink to the manual is no good, but that is actually the good news, because when I searched for your part number I came across your duplicate posting at the Practical Machinist forum, which does have a good hyperlink and some good answers.

That is the worst manual I have seen for a VFD! :mad:

As was already stated over there, set F6 to 002 to give you the 3-wire On/Off control. 3-wire control means that it uses momentary push buttons with "ON" being normally open/push to close, and "OFF" being normally closed/push to open.

I cannot make heads or tails of the pinout in the manual, but the following schematic is one I put together for another person that has the FM50 VFD. There is a good chance that your pinouts are the same as the FM50, so this might work. At a minimum, it might give you some ideas to try.
FM50manual.jpg (http://powertoolman.home.att.net/tempgraphics/FM50manual.jpg)

Is there a better manual than the one you hyperlinked to? Teco manuals are usually a lot larger than this.

Oh, by the way, the NPN and PNP stuff simply means that the inputs at S1-S4 are either activated with 24 volts, or with ground. It is bad nomenclature because it is referring to transistors, and should never have been used in the manual for this application. I can never remember which is which, but I believe PNP means that the inputs are "active-high", which means that when they get 24 volts, they turn on. For "Active-low", it means that when the inputs are connected to ground, they turn on.

Rick Christopherson
03-16-2013, 3:17 PM
I am trying to do the same thing, I did PM the OP, but, Rick Christopherson, do you still have the FM50manual.jpg (http://powertoolman.home.att.net/tempgraphics/FM50manual.jpg) you linked to?This is a 5 year old thread, so I don't even recall what the topic was about. However, yes, I do still have a copy of the graphic that was previously linked to an old website.

http://www.waterfront-woods.com/tempgraphics/FM50manual.jpg

Anthony Diodati
03-16-2013, 4:14 PM
Thank, Rick.
Well, I think that one is different then. I have the JNEV 101-H1 like the OP.
This should cover it http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/ev_operating_manual.pdf

So in this picture below, is the forward reverse switch a 3 position on,(Fwd) Center (off) and another on,(Rev) SPDT NON Momentary contact (Maintained) switch?

Looks like it just switches the 24 (should be terminal 3) volt between S1 and S2.
So that one switch could be my stop, start and reverse?

Anthony Diodati
03-16-2013, 4:19 PM
Then in your drawing above, are these switches Momentary contact switches?