Table Saw Overarm Guard/Dust Collector Mounting

[Mike Scoggins]

I have a Grizzly 1023S table saw with the 52” rails. I built my router table/cabinet into the extension wing. The fence for the router table is clamped to the table saw shop fox fence for ease of adjustment, etc. during routing operations. I like both its functionality and ease of use. Incidentally, I incorporated dust collection on the router table/fence, and it performs very well.

Problem: I would like to add an overarm guard/dust collector to my table saw, but the router table/fence has introduced a problem. No matter where I put the overarm assembly it will be in the way of the router table fence and/or table saw operations.
(I had originally hoped to attach the overarm blade guard bracket to the angle iron that runs along the back of the saw which holds the extension wing. My plan was to attach a strip of T-Track to both the angle iron rail and to the back of the router table cabinet (for extra strength and support) and make the overarm blade guard bracket attach via these T-track strips. By doing so, I would then be able to slide the overarm blade guard bracket in either direction to a location where it would clear the router table fence or be out of the way for table saw operations. The location of where the overarm blade guard would normally reside would likely be just behind the router table fence.. If I needed to rip a large panel, etc. where the overarm would be in the way, I would simply have to remove it for such cuts, but the T-Track mounting would make that easy to do.)

Here are a few things to complicate potential solutions:
1) Attaching the overarm blade guard/dust collector to the ceiling is not an option because (a) my table saw is most often underneath the overhead garage door (when its in the open position) and, (b) my table saw/router table is on wheels and needs to remain mobile due to limited shop space.
2) The router table fence extends beyond the edge of the router table and thus prevents me from attaching the overarm blade guard bracket to the back of the saw without it creating an obstruction for the over-hanging fence.
3) Having a separate router table is not an option for me. I intentionally moved my router table to the extension wing to conserve floor space. (I also knew at the time that the overarm blade guard would be a problem to solve.)

So, since I’ve yet to come up with a completely satisfactory way of attaching the overarm blade guard, I’m seeking the expert advice of fellow ‘Creekers. Has anybody faced the same or similar problem and come up with an acceptable solution? Any and all ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[Jim Becker]

About the only commercial guard that you can mount without interfering would be the "original" design Brett Guard which actually fastens to the cast iron table...but it does limit cut width.

The best solution, IMHO, is to mount your router in the LEFT extension area and mount the guard of your choice on the right. Alternatively, if you are reasonably strong, the Excaliber (for sure and other maybe) can be quickly and easily removed and leaves nothing above table level. You will only have to contend with bumping your thighs and other anatomical features nearby into the mount, which is about 2.5" square. You can see pictures of this in the Excalibur review (http://sawsndust.com/r-excaliburl.htm) on my site.

[Rob Russell]

This is not a problem I've had to solve because my new saw has an overarm guard built in to it, but I've got a sort of crazy idea for a solution that might work for you.

What about a free-standing one?

Take an 8' piece of something and make an arm. Drill a hole in the dead center of the arm. On one end mount your blade guard. On the other end put a counter weight. The counterweight weighs the same as the blade guard. Make a roller base with a couple of locking casters. On that base is a 4 1/2' tall mount for your 6' arm. Mount your arm with a pin (piece of closet pole?) through the hole in your arm. Think of a see-saw that's 4 1/2' off the ground. You can lock the arm in a horizontal position with a second pin. The arm is balanced, so the locking pin just neeeds to keep the arm from floating. When not in use, flip the arm up into a vertical postiion and lock in place. Unlock the casters and roll into a corner. The footprint of the base shouldn't need to be huge - 12" square is plenty.

You can get fancy and use 4" PVC pipe and suck dust through it - all sorts of options. This could allow you to use the guard as a dust capturing hood over your router table too.

If your garage ceiling is too low to allow you to swing the arm up - just design the fulcrum so you remove the arm rather than swinging it up.

Rob

[Dave Avery]

Mike,

My first thought was along the lines of Jim's advice. I have a left extension router table and an overarm blade guard and things work quite well. I have to say, though, that Rob has an interesting idea. Dave.

[Jim Becker]

What about a free-standing one?

I will offer one serious caution on this intriguing idea...you must insure that any kind of free-standing guard setup is absolutely stable when in use. You need to make sure that bumping it will not drive the guard into the spinning blade, etc. That's my one big discomfort with this idea. Otherwise, it has a nice degree of flexibility without using muscles like you need to do when removing/re-installing something like the Excalibur guard. (moderately heavy, but unwieldy)

[Chris Padilla]

Along the lines of what Rob suggested, could you make a mount that is bolted to the ceiling? You might even be able to put it on a track so it could slide to different positions.

Hmmm, this just gave me some interesting ideas!

Good Luck!

[Pat Salter]

Ah, Chris, you beat me too it. I was going to sugguest that. That's what I'm hoping to do. Anybody here tried that yet?

[Waymon Campbell]

Mike - I had the same issue and came up with this solution. Since I had already built an extension table around my TS, I just mounted the overarm on the left. It has worked out great so far.

[Aaron Heck]

Waymon,

Is that the PSI guard? I was thinking about getting one of those to mount to my setup - just trying to figure out if I can mount it to a saw with 30" rails and no extension table (just the right wing).

Aaron

[Waymon Campbell]

Yeah...Its the PSI. I am satisfied with it so far. I need to use 4" pipe to the dust hood instead of the 2 1/2". I definately feel safer with it in place. I have it set so that I can easily swing it out of the way to change blades. Best $175 I ever spent.

As to your question, I would say yes you can. You would need to cut the pipe, but since the dust collection is not thru the pipe like some, it should be no issue.

[Mike Scoggins]

Jim,

Thanks for your input and link to your site. I had looked at it some time back, but it was a good refresher. You're probably right about the best solution being having the router table in the left extenstion wing, but I won't be moving my router table to the left wing extension. I've already built a substantial cabinet underneath the right ring extenstion/52" rails (which wouldn't work on the left even if I were inclined to switch).

I have the same concern you do about Rob's suggestion. However and overarm guard in mounted, it must be secure and rigid. You don't want the blade guard to move right in the middle of a cut!

Rob,

As Jim called it, an "intriguing idea!" I've been toying with the idea of taking something like you suggested and attaching it to the back of my router table cabinet via a hinged support, much like a gate. (This would be something like is often used on portable miter saw stands with flip up extension tables.) The key here would be to make sure that when the overarm guard is hinged out to the working position that it can be locked into place to ensure there is no movement.

Chris/Pat,

The ceiling idea is not an option for me (see my original post), although I wish it were. My problem would be solved.

Waymon,

Thanks for the input and pictures. I can't afford to do what you've done, however. My right wing extension, with the router table mounted, is about the same length as your left. If I added that length to the left, I'd be approaching the wingspan of a 747. :D

All,

Thanks for all your suggestions/input. I visited with my neighbor this weekend (also a woodworker) and he got my wheels turning. Between all of this, I think I may have something that will work, but I'll have to try it, first.

When I've got an acceptable solution, I'll be sure to share it.

Thanks again,
Mike

[Ben Brownbrwn]

Well I like the idea chris has suggested. In fact you could use one of the light shade hanging systems, especially the spring type that can be easily adjusted. So when the guard is not required it can be easily raised up

[Jason Beam]

Do you have a wall nearby? I'd go for a wall-mounted solution, myself.

That, or MAKE the ceiling option work. The ceiling is my first choice. Since we're thinking outside the box here, perhaps a mount could be made that doesn't interfere with your garage door. Do you have your saw way up front, meaning that the point directly above your ceiling sees nearly all of the door itself pass it when opening? Or ... is it more toward the middle and only a couple feet of door passes that point? If it's the latter, maybe some steel could be made up to jog around the door? I'm sure a bit of steel frame could be welded up to be plenty strong to hang the guard off it.

Ultimately - you may not have any other choice than to rethink the whole situation. Move the saw? Switch guards? Take up crochet? :p

[Jim O'Dell]

I mounted my home built dust pickup to the ceiling. I had an old grooming arm for a dog grooming table. It allows the arm that holds the dog to move up and down for the different size dogs. It is made out of cast aluminum with a 1" square hole in the center with a set screw that is threaded to hold the square tubing. I had to add some additional support arms (2) to stabilize the unit, but the beauty is that I can retract the whole contraption up to toward the ceiling. If I had more room above the table in the attic, I could have the unit flush to the ceiling, but I'm limited in the travel I have available. You can see my solution here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=68448&highlight=overhead+dust
Also there are some examples from other peiple that might help. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

I have the PSI as well but my router table is mounted to the left (my motor sticks out to the right). The PSI comes with parts to cieling mount but you may have to move your saw deeper into the garage to avoid the door. Even though the 'S' is a wrong-tilt saw I believe you could still move your router table to the left. Here's an old pic of mine part way through the build: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=52557&d=1166223794 This may give you some ideas. I really like the feed direction being the same on both machines but your fence may then become the issue. Good luck on your quest.

[Ron Williams]

I have and Exaktor mounted from the ceiling works great

[Chris Padilla]

If your garage ceiling is too low to allow you to swing the arm up - just design the fulcrum so you remove the arm rather than swinging it up.

Rob

I've had the thought of a purely overhead guard/DC for my TS but I just need to figure out a good way to bring it up and down from the ceiling (coutnerbalance and such). I have a 6" PVC duct running overhead in the middle of the shop that I can easiy tap into.

[Phil Clark]

I guess I'm missing something - I have an Excalibur overarm (not particularly happy with it either) mounted from the right side where my table mounted router is and have no problem with one itnerfering with the other. Just wish it would do a better job on dust collection.

[Chris Padilla]

Oh man, how easy it is to do!! Ben, you resurrected a thread working on 4 years old!! haha caught me!! :)

[Jason Beam]

Whoa - i'd missed it, too :P

[Dave MacArthur]

LOL... Yeah, but now after reading through allll of this, I STILL want to know-What did Mike do??