Akeda: Problems with half blind.

[chris del]

I have had my Akeda for about 2 years now and since I have the technology to hand cut I have only used it a few times on thru dovetails.
I have a few drawers to make and thought I would use the Akeda to do the half blind dovetails... Having never done half blinds with the Akeda before I prepared some scrap for a test run. I cut 4 joints all of which were too loose. I lowered the cutter slighty each time as the trouble shooting portion of the manual suggests when the joint is too loose.
Finally, the cutter was so low on my forth test joint that less than 1/8" of drawer front was left beyond the tail.
I measured my .438" bushing with my dial calipers and it is bang on .438".

Any suggestions?

[Bill Wyko]

Rember: heighten to tighten, lower to loosen. I believe that's the rule of dovetailing.

[chris del]

Rember: heighten to tighten, lower to loosen. I believe that's the rule of dovetailing.


That is opposite of what the manual says!

[Ron Dunn]

The problem with this process is that "lower" has two potential points of reference:

* Lower the bit within the router
* Lower the bit within the stock

These are opposite directions.

[Aaron Dunham]

Have you tried an undersized AKEDA guide bushing? Also, are your aluminum guide rails the flat style or the ridged style?

[Joe Chritz]

Half blinds are critical of the height setting. In order to use 1/2 material I had to order a dovetail bit with a different angle.

I don't have the book in front of me but the depth of the socket is dependent on the angle of the dovetail bit. I am thinking I had to use an 18 degree bit and there still isn't much material left. On thicker material there is more left over. That is one reason I am looking at using 3/4 BB for drawer sides or going back to poplar.

Joe

[CPeter James]

You are doing something wrong!! I have and use the Akeda with good ressults. I would suggest that you reread the manual. It it may answer your question.

http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/drawers

CPeter

[chris del]

Within 4 or 5 hours of e-mailing Akeda (on a Saturday!!!) I recieved a reply from the big boss, Kevan Lear who invented this machine.
Kevan explained that I could not just use my 3/4" 7 degree bit for any depth of cut I wanted but due to geometry I had to use the bit that is recommended in the manual for each specific depth of cut.
I figured it was just like the thru dovetails where you could use any bit on any thickness of stock but I was wrong.
I will pick up the 9 degree bit as my dept of cut required is 5/8".

Either way I was impressed with Kevans service.

[CPeter James]

Is that 9º correct? I will check mine when i go to the shop?

CPeter

[joseph j shields]

Have you tried an undersized AKEDA guide bushing? Also, are your aluminum guide rails the flat style or the ridged style?

Aaron,

What's the the difference between the flat or ridged style of guide rails???

I have the ridges & I noticed today that the back right-side of my rail in ~3/64 lower than the front rail???


-jj