Plywood cutting blade?

[keith ouellette]

I needed a plywood blade for my skill saw to cut down panels. I have been using a carbide framing blade and cleaning up the cuts on the tabel saw.

I couldn't find a carbide plywood blade so I bought an Oldham 60 tooth fine finish blade. Will this cut birch ply almost as well as a steel tooth plywood blade?

[Julian Wong]

Freud makes a nice 40 tooth blade for cutting plywoods in the Diablo series. It's available in the BORGS for about $15. It's a common item. You should not have a problem with getting one there.

Model number is D0740

[keith ouellette]

Freud makes a nice 40 tooth blade for cutting plywoods in the Diablo series. It's available in the BORGS for about $15. It's a common item. You should not have a problem with getting one there.

Model number is D0740

But will a 60tooth carbide blade make a smooth cut. I want to know before I use it incase I should bring it back.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Is the 60 tooth for the table saw or the circular saw?

I have been using a 7 1/4 steel 44 tooth for all my circular saw cuts. I could use a few more more teeth but haven't spent the money nor had many sheets to cut lately. I would think the 60 tooth on the circular saw would result in some nice cuts. I use 8-8 1/2 (on a 9" TS) 60 tooth for EVERYTHING on my table saw with nice results on every cut.

[keith ouellette]

Is the 60 tooth for the table saw or the circular saw?

I have been using a 7 1/4 steel 44 tooth for all my circular saw cuts. I could use a few more more teeth but haven't spent the money nor had many sheets to cut lately. I would think the 60 tooth on the circular saw would result in some nice cuts. I use 8-8 1/2 (on a 9" TS) 60 tooth for EVERYTHING on my table saw with nice results on every cut.

It is for a circular saw.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I needed a plywood blade for my skill saw to cut down panels. I have been using a carbide framing blade and cleaning up the cuts on the tabel saw.

I couldn't find a carbide plywood blade so I bought an Oldham 60 tooth fine finish blade. Will this cut birch ply almost as well as a steel tooth plywood blade?

Almost any blade will cut better than a steel plywood blade, especially after you make a few cuts. Steel (non-carbide) plywood blades dull in no time. I have made several shop clocks from those that I have owned - that's about all they are good for.

Cutting plywood with a circular saw, particularly cross-cuts, will give better results with a zero clearance plate, or a guided system that incorporates anti-chip features. If you want/need chip-free cuts, it is difficult with even top notch blades in plywood sheets and a hand guided saw.

I used a Forrest WW II in my circular saw for a few years, and got decent results, but.. The blade cost almost as much as the saw. And the cross-cuts were not perfect. Now that I have a guided circular saw system (GCCS) the cuts are close to chip free.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Good point Dave. I forgot I have a zero clearance insert on my circular saw with the 44 tooth steel blade. But I don't have one on my table saw.

[Prashun Patel]

I also am a hater of steel plywood blades (at least the cheap ones). I found them to dull in no time. Then they start to burn the wood. Further, they require you to really muscle the saw through the wood, which is a) not safe and b) reduces accuracy.

I've made better cuts with a 24 tooth blade on a crosscut box or if you sandwich the top and bottom of the cut line of the sheet between scraps to prevent the fibers fm lifting.

[keith ouellette]

Where do I get a zero clearance insert for my makita circular saw? I didn't even know those things existed.

You have convinced me to keep the 60 tooth finish blade at any rate. I figured a steel blade would probably not work to long.

[Anthony Whitesell]

As far as I know...from your shop. Most I know of are homemade. I don't know of a pre-fab one for a circular saw. Someone else may have other information.
I think most people make their own by lifting the saw all the way up, then attach a piece of hardboard to the bottom of the saw, attach the blade, plunge cut the hardboard with the saw to create the opening.

[Bill Jepson]

If you are going to stay with the same saw you will have to make the base plate. I've seen wood or aluminum used to generate a zero clearance at the expense of depth. The Festool guided circular saw provides exactly what you are looking for, it has one side covered by the rail, and the other side of the blade has a small plastic insert that is replaceable for different widths. The system works great no chips. The saw and rail is NOT cheap. But it is one of the few tools I have that does EXACTLY what it says it will. I use the TS55 for all break down of sheet goods. I use the table saw if ultra precision is needed. You can duplicate the results if you are willing to modify the current circular saw, or use sacrificial wood over the cut. The "shoe" would work the best without wasting wood. It would also be easier to set up. A slip-on plastic base for zero clearance cuts would be an excellent product for wood working shop sales! UHMW would be perfect. Good luck which ever solution you choose.
Bill J

[Chris Padilla]

Where do I get a zero clearance insert for my makita circular saw? I didn't even know those things existed.

Visit the EZ forum here and your prayers will be answered! :)

[Greg Cole]

Keith,
I made a ZCI for my Skil #77 out of a scrap piece of UHMW with 4 countersunk screws. 'Bout 10 minutes and $0.10 for the screws.... round the edges over with a router and call it done.
Used it for a good long time that way for cutting mostly oak n birch veneer ply. Now I only use the circ saw for breaking down sheet good to a more manageable size.....so tear out isn't such a big concern as all further cutting is done on the TS.
FWIW, I had-have good results with a 60T blade on the circ saw.... the ZCI eliminated the need to score lines or tape the cut line or any of the other PITA's.

Greg

[Jim Becker]

Prior to acquiring my Festool saw and guide, I was using a 40t Freud 7 1/4" blade in the old B&D circular saw for making relatively clean cuts in plywood. It was pretty inexpensive and worked very well. I do agree that the combination of a decent blade like that with some form of guide will help you deal with this situation. You'll want to at least consider constructing a ZCI for the saw base to further decrease tear-out. That's one of the "secrets" to the commercial systems like EZ and Festool... ;)

[Matthew Voss]

I use that Freud 40t blade as well, and with blue painters tape along the face and underside of the cutline there is almost no chip out.

[Matthew Voss]

A sheet of rigid foam insulation underneath the plywood is another trick that works really well reducing splinters on the underside.

[Dave Falkenstein]

A sheet of rigid foam insulation underneath the plywood is another trick that works really well reducing splinters on the underside.

When cutting with a circular saw, virtually all of the chipping will occur on the top side. The blade enters the material on the bottom side and exits on the top side. The exit side is where the chipping will occur.

[keith ouellette]

Thank you all. The zero clearance plate for a circular is something I never would have thought of. I have some 1/2" plexi glass that will make a nice plate.

I thought of another good thing about this set up as I was picturing it. I have the plate of the circular saw slip under my straight edge a few times when the plywood was a little bowed. With the zci the plate will be up higher in the middle of the straight edge. I like the idea.

[Randal Stevenson]

When making a homemade zero clearance circular saw insert, OR using a Smart base (EZ smart guide system down below), make SURE to not completely enclose it, so the guard can flip down.

[Wayne Cannon]

I have found that a 180-tooth (140-teeth in the 7 1/4" version) hollow-ground steel plywood blade gives me a cleaner cut than any carbide blade. It's true that they need to be sharpened more frequently, but I still get plenty of service between sharpenings. I have found that some sharpening services do a marginal job on this blade, however, though most have been fine.

[Josiah Bartlett]

The trick to keeping a plywood blade sharp longer is to not use it on anything but plywood, and especially avoid MDF. Also, when not in use keep it in a dry location or hose it down with WD-40. Tool steel rusts quickly and rusty blades do not cut well even if they seem sharp.

I view plywood blades like shaving razors- they have to be cleaned and dried after use or they become disposable on a per-project basis.

[Jerry Booher]

I had a Craftsman plywood blade that had become dull. the last time I used it following a clamped guide was a disaster. Suddenly my cut was nearly an inch away from the line. The blade had heated up and looked like a Belleville washer - incredible warp.

Then I got rid of the old Craftsman saw with its 7" blades and am now using a Makita with its stock carbide blade and getting nice rip cuts. I have to score the plywood for crosscuts.

Jerry

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have found that a 180-tooth (140-teeth in the 7 1/4" version) hollow-ground steel plywood blade gives me a cleaner cut than any carbide blade. It's true that they need to be sharpened more frequently, but I still get plenty of service between sharpenings. I have found that some sharpening services do a marginal job on this blade, however, though most have been fine.

What does it cost to have a 140 tooth blade sharpened? On carbide blades, the sharpening shops typically base the charge on the number of teeth.

[Charles McCracken]

Freud makes a nice 40 tooth blade for cutting plywoods in the Diablo series. It's available in the BORGS for about $15. It's a common item. You should not have a problem with getting one there.

Model number is D0740

There is a new 60T Diablo available now at HD that produces even better cuts in plywood. Item number is D0760R. Soon to be available everywhere.