Yet another DC question

[Sean Troy]

Well I finally got my DC pipe and fittings and am ready to finish up the job. I had a question regarding my table saw. I have a 4" port on the saw and a 4" port on the Excalubur over arm gaurd. Should I run the 6" pipe as close to the two as I can and then split off to two 4's or go two seperate 6's reduced to 4 at each port each 6' with their own blast gate??

[Jason Beam]

two 6's down to 4's might give you SOME improved airflow, but it isn't likely to be much. A single 6" split to two 4's should be okay since 6" is more than double the area of 4" anyway.

[Anthony Whitesell]

It really won't matter. The 6" run to each port and reduced at the port would provide you more suction at the saw but may be more cumbersome to move the guard around with a 6" flex house attached to it.

I'm not sure that you would need a blast gate at each. Wouldn't you want to have suction from both any time you use the saw? Or maybe the base suction all the time and the guard suction only part time, which would only require one blast gate on the guard line.

[Steven Wilson]

Run the 6" pipe close to the saw and finish in a 6x4x4 wye with two 4" blast gates. Keep your 4" pipe/hose runs from the blast gates to your saw ports short.

[Larry Fox]

I am facing the same problem and plan on running my pipe the weekend. My plan is to cut the cabinet of my Uni to allow for a 6" pipe to the back and get the 6" as close as I can to the overarm guard and step it down to 4".

[Chris Padilla]

I did what Larry is considering: enlarge the port on your TS to 6". Cut out a couple rings of plywood with a 6" inner diameter and glue/caulk in your connection to the flex and bolt the whole mess to your TS.

I don't have an overhead guard/DC for my TS.

I ran 6" flex from the wall to a 6" hardpipe I attached to my TS. From there I flexed into my TS. The 6"hardpipe has a quick-connect to the flex from the wall.

[Jim Becker]

When I was running the Excalibur guard on the cabinet saw I used to own, I split the drop between the saw and the cabinet and when using the overarm guard, I often cut off or reduced the flow from the cabinet to insure that the overarm setup was optimized. (It's easy to clean out the inside of a cabinet saw and nice to insure that the "splash" coming off the top of the blade was eliminated as a priority) Note, my drop was 5", so I was dividing that into a 4" and 2.5" drop which matched the hose to the guard head anyway.

[Sean Troy]

Lots of good info, thanks, Sean

[Mike Goetzke]

Sean - What type of pipe did you run?


Mike

[Sean Troy]

Sean - What type of pipe did you run?


Mike

6" S&D. The manufacturer is located right here in my town so the price is very reasonable. It's light and easy to handle by myself.