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View Full Version : Grizzly G0490 review and shop photos



bob cohen
02-01-2008, 11:17 AM
I'm happy! Its been two weeks since I placed my order, but as I said in an earlier post, the base unit was improperly welded and had to be replaced. Grizzly was very accommodating. They originally suggested that they send a new base with motor, wheels, etc., with me returning the original in the same box. I really didn't want to have to rebox everything and suggested that they just send the base, since it was probably useless to them anyway. They said no problem (I had sent them photos showing that the original base was twisted and basically something to be trashed). It wasn't all that easy swapping out all of the parts, as it required disconnecting the wires from the motor to the power switch, among other things.

All together it probably took 6 hours to get the unit up and running, with two hours of that time going to swapping out parts between the old and new base (admittedly I made a few mistakes along the way and had to repeat some of the steps). The instruction manual was not great by any definition, but good enough to get the job done. Grizzly supplies all of the needed tools and they have a parts sheet that I would recommend photocopying (I printed a second copy from the online manual, which also has a nice color diagram of the motor wiring) so that you can have it out and visible at all times. Everything fit together pretty well. One of the 8 holes for attaching the jointer beds to the base did not line up properly, but I'm not too worried about that--7 bolts should hold it pretty well. I do wish that the spacing of the holes was different. Some of them were in corners such that I could only get a quarter or half turn on the hex wrench at a time. The 3HP motor is heavy, but mounting it was much less of a problem than I anticipated, once I tilted the base on its side. I got the belt tension right the first time just by loosening the mounting brackets to the frame and letting gravity do the rest. I felt like I saved some time there. Attaching the fence mount was more difficult; there is nothing to rest it on during attachment and I would suggest you get some help for this step--I had none.

The fit and finish is very good, perhaps not quite as good as on my unisaw, but better than my laguna bandsaw. The only noticeable blemish is on the edge of the throat plate; there is a thin steel overlay and one of the corners was turned up. That corner sticks out beyond the cutterhead by a fraction of an inch and therefore is of no functional consequence, except that it is sharp and could scratch your hand pretty good. I will file it down smooth in the future and no one will ever know. The tables are just about perfectly flat; I never detected more than 2 thousandths of an inch gap under my 36 inch straight edge and most regions showed no gap at all. The fence was less perfect, but still excellent. The factory set knifes and outfeed table is close to perfect--two of the knifes are perfectly alingned, but the other two are set about 1-2 thousandths of an inch beneath the table. I was anxious to run a few test boards through and have left them as they were for now.

I am delighted with the test cuts. I was easily able to face joint a 6 by 64 inch quarter sawn white oak board! Smooth as a baby's behind and flat as a pond on a windless day.

I am pleased and would buy it again in a flash.

In deciding which jointer to buy, I was always concerned about why the grizzly jointer (this is the parallelogram model) is so much less expensive than the similar models from delta and powermatic. Where was grizzly cutting costs? I still do not know for sure and like to think that grizzly is just working on a different business model. That said, I think they are saving money with their tables, which are exactly 8 inches wide from end to end. I'm not sure of the exact dimensions of the delta and powermatic tables, but I know they are an inch or so wider than the cutterhead, at least on the infeed side. Indeed my old 6 inch delta is nearly eight inches wide on the infeed side of the cutterhead. I really can't see that making any difference though--its the size of the cutterhead and length of the tables that matter to me.

One cautionary note about the integrated mobile base. They get the job done and I can't imagine having an eight inch jointer without them if space is at all an issue in your shop. But be careful in moving the thing around, apart from being able to dent anything it runs into (we are talking serious MV), it is a bit top heavy. I had a scary moment where the unit tilted ever so slightly when moving it into position. The thought of that thing tipping over has left a permanent cautionary impression on me--which I guess is a good thing.

Don't worry, my shop is not always as clean and organized as it looks in the pictures. I went through a major reorganization recently to make room for the jointer. Any suggestions about where I can keep my 10 inch SCMS, which is sitting on the floor out of the view of the camera?

Oh and one last word about actual costs. I got the machine for the standard price of 795 plus 144 shipping. But then you also have to factor in lift gate charge (residential only), plug (not provided), receptacle, and most likely a new 220 Volt circuit breaker, wiring cable, etc. Bottom line, budget about 1,000.

The coffee table and experimental box with wood hinges are my two most recent projects.

bob cohen
02-01-2008, 11:23 AM
The machines runs pretty quietly, but has noticeable "bang" at start up, much like my unisaw.

frank shic
02-01-2008, 11:31 AM
nice mission table and toolbox. how about a close-up on the locking mechanism on that toolbox? thanks for the shop tour!

Barry Lloyd
02-01-2008, 11:39 AM
Bob -I've been lusting after that same jointer. Nice to see you are happy with it and glad Grizzly did right by you resolving the issue.Also - nice shop. Is that T&G on the wall? Very nice...Barry

bob cohen
02-01-2008, 11:44 AM
Sorry, I don't know what you mean. I have the leigh dovetail jig and leigh FMT mortising jig on the south wall and love them both.

Monroe Brown
02-01-2008, 11:49 AM
...that I ordered my G0586 jointer on Monday afternoon and it arrived on Wednesday! It was very well boxed and damage free. I'll be setting it up this weekend.

Grizzly has really come a long way in my 7 or 8 years of woodworking. There used to be constant complaints about shipping damage and shortages. And many folks thought the quality of Grizzly tools also fell short of the mark when compared to other vendors. No more!

Congrats on your new jointer.

MB

gary Zimmel
02-01-2008, 11:52 AM
Bob

Nice looking shop, thanks for the tour. And nice looking projects.

Love the mission table...

Lars Thomas
02-01-2008, 3:15 PM
Bob, congrats on the new jointer. If she is banging at start up, the belt tension might be too lose and hitting the belt guard as a result. Lars

Greg Cole
02-01-2008, 4:54 PM
Link belts help get rid of the slap too...

Greg

Greg Shields
02-01-2008, 5:24 PM
Link belts help get rid of the slap too...

Greg

But they introduce a whole new sound....the whistle...

Here is a link to what I ended up doing.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=3483136&page=5&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

Go get a Gates belt from your local auto store...I am starting to line the inside of the cabinet with Dynamat also to stop the start and stop cabinet resonating....

Robert E Johnson III
02-01-2008, 5:55 PM
Nice Grizzly, I'm impressed on your shop walls. They give me Ideas on my shop since my walls are yet to be covered. Are they panel sections or strips?

Barry Lloyd
02-01-2008, 7:21 PM
Sorry, I don't know what you mean. I have the leigh dovetail jig and leigh FMT mortising jig on the south wall and love them both.

Sorry Bob...Tongue & Groove. Looks like the pine paneling we had in my mom's house when I was a teenager.

Barry

keith ouellette
02-01-2008, 7:32 PM
Glad your jointer problem worked out. I have the same one and love it so far.
Did you have to adjust your tables at all and if you did, did you have a problem with the set screw behind the depth gage? On mine it is the only one that is horizontal and it can get a little lost in a space the main body.
Nice shop too.

bob cohen
02-01-2008, 7:42 PM
Yeah, I buy the boards (nominal 8 inch wide) at home depot. I get their cheapest of two grades. I don't remember the exact cost, but not too bad. What's great is that once they are up, you can hang things most anywhere on the wall. Also, I like the look more than drywall. The biggest problem is in finding straight boards. I would go through home depot's whole stack of 50 or so to find 20 good ones, which basically led me to do one wall at a time. If you pick your boards out carefully, they fit together pretty nicely. I've attached them to both framed walls and walls with furring strips. I prefer the latter, because it saves you 3/4 inch of floor space and its more secure--i attach the strips to the wall with 2 1/2 anchor screws (the blue ones), and a good hammer drill. I predrill countesinks into the strips with a spade bit to so that the screw head is burried and the paneling lies flat. Also, be prepared to go through a couple of mason bits per wall. If you are serious about doing this and want more info, feel free to email me.

bob cohen
02-01-2008, 7:51 PM
haven't had to, though like I said a couple of the knives are set low. Not surprised about the inconvenient screw placement, as I ran into similar problems with the ones that mount the jointer to the base. I also struggled somewhat with the fence. Haven't set any of the stops yet, but probably will do that tomorrow as the factory set 90 is not too good. Also haven't set the guard up right yet. I'm very happy though and I'm glad you are too. I just got back from the woodworking show here in KC and saw the new oliver 8 inch jointer for the first time. Very impressive looking machine, but I think it is quite pricey and didnt even ask the rep.

Don Bullock
02-01-2008, 9:12 PM
Bob, thanks for the review. I'm glad to hear that Grizzly came through for you on the base. I've run just a few more boards through my jointer than you have and have found it to be a good machine. Enjoy.:D

Tom Ruflin
02-02-2008, 8:53 AM
Bob, I got rid of the belt slap at start and stop by using quick grip clamps to tension the belt. The link belt also helped. See the picture attached. You have to pull down on the pully side and pull/push up on the other side to keep the motor parallel and have good pully/belt alignment. Proper alignment and the link belt really help to reduce vibration.

Note that I used a 3/4 " board in the bottom of the cabinet for the bottom of the clamp to hook under. I used full hand/squeeze pressure on the pully side and double checked the pressure after everything was checked for parrallel and then tighened all the bolts and removed the clamps and board in the bottom.

bob cohen
02-02-2008, 11:03 AM
did you tighten the clamps with full hand strength?

Mike Marcade
02-02-2008, 11:16 AM
I did the same thing. With perfect belt aligment and really good tension using some of those one handed spreader clamps mine makes no bang or rubbing whatsoever, even with a link belt on. I can place a nickel on the outfeed and start it up, let it run, and stop it and the nickel never moves.

Greg Shields
02-02-2008, 11:20 AM
I may have to try that with mine. I have a slight bang at startup but after that it is smooth.

Rob Blaustein
02-02-2008, 1:26 PM
Mike and Tom: Do you leave those clamps there all the time to maintain proper tension, or do you make some adjustment while clamped, then remove the clamps?

Mike Marcade
02-02-2008, 2:00 PM
Rob,

You loosen the bolts to adjust the motor, then apply the spreaders to put the correct tension on the belt, then tighten the bolts and remove the clamps.

Rob Blaustein
02-02-2008, 2:05 PM
Rob,

You loosen the bolts to adjust the motor, then apply the spreaders to put the correct tension on the belt, then tighten the bolts and remove the clamps.

Thanks Mike. I was curious since I have a G0490 sitting in my garage still crated waiting for me to make room for it and to get help assembling it. One of these days... Rob

Russ Massery
02-02-2008, 2:55 PM
Congrats, on the jointer I upgraded to a G0490 also from the same jointer (6" Delta) a few years ago. I've been very happy with mine also. This pasted year I put a Byrd head in mine. Looks like a nice shop.

Mike Marcade
02-02-2008, 4:00 PM
Thanks Mike. I was curious since I have a G0490 sitting in my garage still crated waiting for me to make room for it and to get help assembling it. One of these days... Rob

Mine took me a couple of months to get completely running too. :o also BTW I am leveraging your Board Buddy mounting design for my tablesaw fence.

Rob Blaustein
02-02-2008, 5:33 PM
Mine took me a couple of months to get completely running too. :o also BTW I am leveraging your Board Buddy mounting design for my tablesaw fence.

Mike-Good luck with the board buddies installation. As you probably noticed, I based mine on a bunch of different folks' methods after searching the archives. It was handy to actually print out some pics and take them down to the shop. I'm sure one day I'll hit you up for advice on the jointer. One day... --Rob

Mike Marcade
02-02-2008, 5:41 PM
Mike-Good luck with the board buddies installation. As you probably noticed, I based mine on a bunch of different folks' methods after searching the archives. It was handy to actually print out some pics and take them down to the shop. I'm sure one day I'll hit you up for advice on the jointer. One day... --Rob

I actually looked at your pics and then designed my setup on Pro/Engineer. Just PM me if you need some jointer help.

Don Bullock
02-03-2008, 10:58 AM
Bob, I got rid of the belt slap at start and stop by using quick grip clamps to tension the belt. The link belt also helped. See the picture attached. You have to pull down on the pully side and pull/push up on the other side to keep the motor parallel and have good pully/belt alignment. Proper alignment and the link belt really help to reduce vibration.

Note that I used a 3/4 " board in the bottom of the cabinet for the bottom of the clamp to hook under. I used full hand/squeeze pressure on the pully side and double checked the pressure after everything was checked for parrallel and then tighened all the bolts and removed the clamps and board in the bottom.

Tom, thanks for the post. When I get a chance I'll try that with mine.

Russ Massery
02-03-2008, 11:07 AM
I went to a link belt on mine. I found the stock belt too stiff and caused the belt to have a lot of memory. Link belt did the trick.