Cabinet saw vs contractor saw

[Billy Dodd]

Just wondering if a cabinet saw is really that much better than a good contractor saw especially for the price. I get straight cuts with my fence on my craftsman contractor saw and I get good cuts with the crosscut sled I built for it. Would there be any benefits to having the cabinet style saw? Billy

[Lee Koepke]

It depends.

I had a contractor style saw that I restored, and replaced it recently with a cabinet saw. Granted I had something not easy to fix break on my old saw, I based my upgrade on personal decisions.

I am only begginning the serious venture into basement woodworking, and based on MY experience and anticipated project types, a good solid dependable cabinet saw fit my needs.

The things I like are the 3 hp motor, the mass of the saw ( it is very solid and doesnt move AT all ) and the fact that this saw should last a lifetime for me.

If your current saw meets your needs, use it, save the money and THEN upgrade when it makes sense.

[Bill White]

Bought a well cared for G0444Z from a fellow Creeker who had really spent the time to set it up properly. Have it set with dust collection, and runnin' on 220V. I will never outwork this saw. It's dead on. (But not left tilt dang it).
Bill

[Tim Malyszko]

I have a contractor's saw (Ridgid TS3650) that I will eventually replace, but whatever I replace it with, I plan on making my last saw ever.

My contractor saw is dead-on accurate, but lacks in dust collection and raw power. Since it only has a 1.5 hp motor, it will bog down when ripping denser, thicker materials, but I don't really cut these all that often. Out of all my tools, the only thing that has worse dust collection is my compound miter saw.

When I do finally upgrade, I'm going all out and leaning towards the saw stop because I've seen too many careful people missing fingers. But, since that's a $3k+ investment (for the setup I want), I will stick with my trusty contractor's saw until then. Again, for the majority of what I do, I don't need anymore more saw that what I have.

If you are happy with your saw, I would stick with it. The only reason I see upgrading is if you want a new, shiney toy:D. For instance, I didn't "NEED" a new router lift and big boy router before Christmas because my current setup was sufficient for 90% of what I did, but I wanted one, so I went for it because I like new toys.

Good Luck.

[Prashun Patel]

One benefit besides power is that cabinet saws have enclosed motors, which aids dust collection.

If your con-saw has enough power for you, and you've worked around it's dust coll deficiencies, then there's little reason to upgrade.

If yr happy w the accuracy and cutting capacity of yr existing saw, I'd invest money in better blades, a big, fat, left side power switch (if u don't have one), and outfeed extension, and a dust collecting overguard.

[Matt Meiser]

I'm also pretty happy with my contractor saw. But I paid the same I would have paid for a Grizzly G1023 and in retrospect that would have been a better buy. At the time I didn't really know anything and bought based on name (Delta and Biesemeyer) For most things in a hobby shop, a contractor saw is going to be fine. But without some work the dust collection isn't as good. You'll want a great fence which ads to the cost too. Many people have bought contractor saws because they are "cheaper", then spent hours upgrading the dust collection ($$), added a better fence ($$), added alignment aids ($$), added better pulleys ($$) and added link bets ($$). By that time they've paid what a cabinet saw would have cost and probably wouldn't have needed any of the above. Of course it does let you get started and spend the money over time.

[Art Mann]

I am looking to upgrade my Ridgid 3650 to a cabinet saw, but the reasons are strictly convenience. Better dust collection and faster cutting speed are my big issues. I am perfectly satisfied with every other aspect of my current saw. People who say they are buying a cabinet saw to get better accuracy or a smoother cut typically have not used a good contractor saw.

There are special cases where a cabinet saw is more important. For example, if you cut a lot of 6/4 or 8/4 hardwood, horsepower gets to be a lot more important. The extra durability of a cabinet saw would certainly be worthwhile if you were planning on earning a living with the saw.

[scott spencer]

For a hobbyist, the switch to a cabinet saw is usually a matter of want more than need, but there are advantages for a cabinet saw. It's not likely that you'll ever be able to tell cuts from either saw apart by looking at them, but the cabinet saw will have an easier time with cuts, is more stable, has better DC, is easier to align, should last for generations, and will generally be more pleasant to use.

I'm a hobbyist too, but there are times when I've cut 10/4" and 12/4" hardwoods that a 3 hp saw would have made the task easier. If I cut alot more thick woods, I'd have more urge to switch to a cabinet saw, but with good alignment and good blade choice, both my contractor saw and hybrid are capable....a 3hp cab saw would do the same task with ease 24/7.

[Deuce Lee]

from what I learned in my post about TS, you should be looking more at a cabinet or a hybrid, or a contractor and a hybrid, take you're choice, it's seems like you know less of what you want exactly if you make the jump from contractor to cabinet...that's if you're looking for NEW saw and you don't got one right now...

since you already got a contractor, you should ask yourself what the other's mentioned...what do you see yourself doing long term? is this your job? hobby? what are your needs? what are you going to cut? if those questions don't lead to NEEDING a cabinet saw, maybe your contractor will suffice,,,

i was looking at the jet proshop, but now i think i change my mind and just get a TS3650 because there are so many happy owners, its not my day job, just hobby, i got the space, i can get it for $443 including tax new, and it includes cast iron wings and the hurculift and a very nice fence...

the proshop will cost about $850, almost 2x the price for the ridgid for the cast iron wings and some sort of portable base...

[Steven Wilson]

I find that a cabinet saw is much easier to setup accurately and it takes less floor space than a similarily sized contractor saw.

[Billy Dodd]

This is the sort of thing I was wondering about. I have been able to cut 12/4 boards but go at it a little slow with little burning. The table top is 48X27 I believe so I can cut plywood ok. The blades I use are nice freud blades thin kerf of course. The main wood I use is red oak 4/4 which cuts with no problem. I didn't know if going from a contractor type to a cabinet would be like going from a VW to a Cadilac or if it was something different. I do wooddworking on the side to help ends meet. Which I seem to be getting more work then I can keep up with. Maybe one of these days I can quit my full time job where I can work 80 hours a week instead of 60.

[Pat Germain]

I think Matt is spot-on here. Had I known better, it would have been much more cost effective for me to buy a decent cabinet saw rather than spending years trying to get my contractor saw up to par.

By the time I added machined pulleys, link belt, dust hood, aftermarket fence, PALS and a mobile base, I'm pretty much in cabinet saw price territory.

If you can get a good deal on a contractor saw with a decent fence, which I understand is possible these days, it would probably be a decent compromise. It's all the little things you don't think about, like dust collection, that get annoying.

[Deuce Lee]

when you guys are complaining about dust collection in a contractor table saw, are you assuming that it's wide open directly below the saw and open in the back right?

can anyone with a TS3650 shine a light? i've looked at it, and it looks like if you put a vacuum to the saw (it's got a shroud that sorta collects the dust), that it should be ok (not great, but ok), expecially if you do something to protect the rear...

i donno, i may be speaking out of my rear end but from what I saw at the borg, it looked like it might be ok with a couple of custom modifications...

[scott spencer]

Deuce - A blade shroud is definitely better than nothing. The 3650's dust port is 2.5" which won't give the airflow of a 4" port even with an adaptor. Closing off the back and doing some mods should give some improvement depending on what you do. Owner's on Ridgid's site should have plenty of ideas for you.

[Pat Germain]

Although you can make things much better with a few mods, I don't think any contractor saw could match a cabinet saw for dust collection. Contractor saws are designed to with no dust collection at all, or as an afterthought. Cabinet saws are designed specifically for good dust collection.

I don't know about the BORG saw. I do know that just because it looks like it would have good dust collection doesn't mean anything. You can buy lots of Shop-Vac dust collection stuff at Home Depot, and it looks great, but it won't come close to performing like an actual dust collector.

[Chris Padilla]

Switching to thin-kerf blades might help some of the power issues facing contractor saws.

[Pat Germain]

^^ I've seen this debated before, but I don't know the answer. Some people say the extra spinning mass of a regular kerf blade makes it no more difficult to turn than a thin kerf. I honestly don't know, but based on my experience, the thin kerf blades don't cut any easier. They just produce less waste.

[Deuce Lee]

Although you can make things much better with a few mods, I don't think any contractor saw could match a cabinet saw for dust collection. Contractor saws are designed to with no dust collection at all, or as an afterthought. Cabinet saws are designed specifically for good dust collection.

I don't know about the BORG saw. I do know that just because it looks like it would have good dust collection doesn't mean anything. You can buy lots of Shop-Vac dust collection stuff at Home Depot, and it looks great, but it won't come close to performing like an actual dust collector.

i'm not gonna disagree with you on that, but i'm thinking that i'm just a weekend warrior, i don't know if it's worth spending the extra $400 :o

[Pat Germain]

^^ Indeed, and therein lies the rub. I do know lots of folks are very happy with their Rikon saws. People often recommend finding a good used saw. That's great advice, but I can never find any in my area. Certainly check your local craigslist. You just might get lucky.

If you do get a contractor saw, I highly recommend you get a dial indicator and immediately square the blade and fence to the miter slot. Do this before you even make any cuts. Don't bother trying any method which does not include a dial indicator. Don't be like me and think, "Gee, how far could it be off? I mean, we're not making rockets here." Ha, bad idea.

Getting your blade and fence perfectly lined up will go a very long way with making your saw perform well. Happy cutting!

[scott spencer]

^^ I've seen this debated before, but I don't know the answer. Some people say the extra spinning mass of a regular kerf blade makes it no more difficult to turn than a thin kerf. I honestly don't know, but based on my experience, the thin kerf blades don't cut any easier. They just produce less waste.

Hi Pat - There are a lot more factors than just blade mass involved. One of the primary factors is cut width. Even though there's only ~ 1/32" difference between a 3/32" TK and a 1/8" standard kerf blade, the full kerf is 1/3 wider than the TK. How much difference that makes depends a great deal on the blade's geometry, tooth count, quality level, the wood, and how much the saw is being stressed during the cut, but when push comes to shove and the saw bogs, the TK puts less strain on the motor as a simple matter of physics...assuming a proper high quality blade on a well tuned saw that's not suffering excessive vibration. It's not going to be as noticeable on something like 3/4 MDF as it will be on 2" hard maple.

That narrower kerf also produces less saw dust.

[Dick Sylvan]

Just wondering if a cabinet saw is really that much better than a good contractor saw especially for the price. I get straight cuts with my fence on my craftsman contractor saw and I get good cuts with the crosscut sled I built for it. Would there be any benefits to having the cabinet style saw? Billy

In my opinion, a contractors saw is just what the name says it is: a contractors saw, designed and intended for a job site. In Europe they even call these type of saws just that: "site saws". For several reasons (primarily economics), many people want to stretch their budget and the limits of what the saw was intended for and this works fairly well. However, to ask the question above is, IMHO, a silly question. Of course there are benefits to a cabinet saw and I think any serious woodworker should eventually have one. Can you get along with a contractors saw in the meantime. Certainly, almost of us did for awhile, but they are not the same tool.

[Pat Germain]

Hi Pat - There are a lot more factors than just blade mass involved. One of the primary factors is cut width. Even though there's only ~ 1/32" difference between a 3/32" TK and a 1/8" standard kerf blade, the full kerf is 1/3 wider than the TK. How much difference that makes depends a great deal on the blade's geometry, tooth count, quality level, the wood, and how much the saw is being stressed during the cut, but when push comes to shove and the saw bogs, the TK puts less strain on the motor as a simple matter of physics...assuming a proper high quality blade on a well tuned saw that's not suffering excessive vibration. It's not going to be as noticeable on something like 3/4 MDF as it will be on 2" hard maple.

That narrower kerf also produces less saw dust.

Great info. Thanks, Scott.

[Wayne Cannon]

The fence on a good cabinet saw is worth the difference by itself. Retrofitting a contractor saw with a quality fence will cost almost half the cost of a new cabinet saw. Consider one of the excellent1 3/4 HP intermediate cabinet saws for lower price, if the lower HP is ok.

The lower vibration in a well-aligned cabinet saw will leave you with cuts that are essentially glue-ready, something I rarely had with my good contractor saw.

Better dust collection, more power, potentially larger table are other benefits.

[Art Mann]

"The lower vibration in a well-aligned cabinet saw will leave you with cuts that are essentially glue-ready, something I rarely had with my good contractor saw."

That statement implies something that, in my experience, is absolutely incorrect. I can't count the number of times I have ripped a piece to width and then immediately glued it up, with no detectable glue line. I use the Ridgid TS 3650. I can't say why you did not have as much success, but it is not because of the type of saw. Maybe you used a bad blade. Maybe your saw wasn't as good as you thought it was. Maybe there was some other unknown factor. But that simply is not a general rule, in my considerable experience. Pardon me, but I simply can not let that statement go unchallenged.

[Deuce Lee]

Although you can make things much better with a few mods, I don't think any contractor saw could match a cabinet saw for dust collection. Contractor saws are designed to with no dust collection at all, or as an afterthought. Cabinet saws are designed specifically for good dust collection.

I don't know about the BORG saw. I do know that just because it looks like it would have good dust collection doesn't mean anything. You can buy lots of Shop-Vac dust collection stuff at Home Depot, and it looks great, but it won't come close to performing like an actual dust collector.

i don't think anyone's going to disagree with you, but once again, i don't think every person here works on wood 40hrs/week, so my point being that if you're just a weekend warrior, and make some mods on the contractor saw, being 80-90% as good in dust collecting compared to a cabinet saw may be good enough since you're only paying $4-500 vs. $2,500 to $3,000 for the different saw...

edit - i didn't see the second page and thought i didn't respond to Pat yet...lol, my bad for double posting

[Lee Koepke]

i don't think anyone's going to disagree with you, but once again, i don't think every person here works on wood 40hrs/week, so my point being that if you're just a weekend warrior, and make some mods on the contractor saw, being 80-90% as good in dust collecting compared to a cabinet saw may be good enough since you're only paying $4-500 vs. $2,500 to $3,000 for the different saw...
i paid a hair under 1,000 for my grizz 1023sl cabinet saw delivered....

i think the point was, if you pay 450 for a contractor saw, then another 200 for a fence, you are 'closer' to a cabinet.

your point is valid, but the lower end cabinets were in my opinion worth the jump. But that was for me.....i like it, and dont regret it for a second, even the check i wrote for it.

[David Stoner]

I started a new thread before discovering this one, but I'll throw in my question here, too. For me, a weekend woodworker with limited shop space, a $1,500+ cabinet saw is out of the question. But I've been getting by with a benchtop saw (BT3000) for way too long and am ready to make the jump to something more robust and consistent. On the low end, I'm considering a Ridgid 3650, which seems to get uniformly positive reviews from owners. I'm also considering spending a bit more ($550 v. $870) and getting the Woodtek hybrid, which Fine Woodworking picked as both the best and the best value hybrid. Are the pluses in a good hybrid (such as better dust collection) significant enough to justify the additional cost?

[scott spencer]

I started a new thread before discovering this one, but I'll throw in my question here, too. For me, a weekend woodworker with limited shop space, a $1,500+ cabinet saw is out of the question. But I've been getting by with a benchtop saw (BT3000) for way too long and am ready to make the jump to something more robust and consistent. On the low end, I'm considering a Ridgid 3650, which seems to get uniformly positive reviews from owners. I'm also considering spending a bit more ($550 v. $870) and getting the Woodtek hybrid, which Fine Woodworking picked as both the best and the best value hybrid. Are the pluses in a good hybrid (such as better dust collection) significant enough to justify the additional cost?

Hi David - That's really a question that only you can answer depending on what the price difference means to your budget. What will that price difference mean to you in 6 months? Having made the jump from a very nice tricked out GI contractor saw to a hybrid, I'd say it's a worthwhile move. The advantages are pretty lopsided IMO....in addition to improved DC, there's the difference in size of the footprint, the pros of a shorter drive belt (more efficient power transfer and lower vibration), additional mass, a more stable enclosure, plus the benefits of not having an exterior motor. Most of the better hybrids come with an upscale fence these days too, which IMO, just about justifies the cost difference by itself.

In the end, both will cut wood well enough once dialed in with a good blade.

[Matt Meiser]

Are the pluses in a good hybrid (such as better dust collection) significant enough to justify the additional cost?

IMHO, if you are going to spend $870, save for a couple more months an get a Grizzly G1023 for about $100 more--maybe less depending on Woodtek's shipping. The Woodtek is probably a perfectly fine saw, but 1023's are plentiful and I don't recall hearing a many complaints about them. On the other hand, the Craftsman hybrids go on sale pretty cheap on a regular basis and the situation is similar with them. The Woodtek is just more of an unknown to me. Of course if you don't have 220V power that adds to the cost of the Grizzly, maybe significantly if you pay someone to run it.

[David Stoner]

Thanks for the suggestion, Matt. I considered the Grizzly 1023, but I was put off by the prospect of having to add 220V capability. For that reason, I don't consider even an otherwise affordable cabinet saw to be an option.

[Steven DeMars]

Adding 220 VAC is not that hard, nor that expensive . . . You might want to consider it . . .

Steve:)

[John Yogus]

Deuce-I'm seriously considering the 3650. If you don't mind me asking, how are you going to pull it off for $443 with tax? I started to lean toward the Proshop, but if I can get the 3650 for that, that would just about seal the deal.

[Fred Voorhees]

Like many others, I too, plan on making my next tablesaw purchase, my last one hopefully. I am just about ready to take the plunge on a cabinet saw to replace my Delta contractors model. I could have lived with my Delta for a great many more years if need be. It is still in great shape, but at this point, I am ready to trade up to a more substantial saw with more power and more mass. I am just glad that I can occasionally find the funds to allow such purchases. Within the next five years before I retire, I plan on getting my shops machinery to where I want it so that I won't need to make any major upgrades after I retire.

The choice between a cabinet saw and contractors saw has a few elements. One being monetary. Of course, the cabinet models will cost more. However, Grizzly puts cabinet models well within reach of the higher end contractors models. If you only do light sawing with your tablesaw, you might be overspending for your purposes if you go with a cabinet saw. Also, you may be limited electrically to a contractors saw which utilize 110 - cabinet saws usually, if not always, are a step up in electrical needs.

[Peter Quinn]

Billy, I'm gonna tell you straight...yes a cabinet saw is that much better. If you want to cut wood and money is no object, then there is no question. I spent four years doing side jobs saving for mine, drove a broken car for years while I saved. Don't regret it.

I grew up working in my dad's basement shop on a craftsman contractor saw. In my own shop I got a 5hp PM66, 70" rails, etc. I am using it to make a living (or at least pay for my saw!) Its more like the difference between an VW and an Abhram's tank. You don't need an Abhrams tank to drive to the beach. Question is where do you need to go?

Next question is do you need a cabinet saw. Amoung other things I make interior doors and wooden storm windows. I can rip a clean 3 degree bevel on a full size 1 3/4 oak door on my PM...wouldn't try that on the craftsman alone. But you can do that with a router just as easy. I regularly rip full size sheet goods alone with minimal setup time and clean chip free cuts. Of course I used to do that with my makita skill saw. Lots of great methods of work out there that don't require a cabinet saw.

10" Cabinet saws can rip 8/4 to 10/4 material smooth and easy, so if that is something you do regularly you might want one. They are built to handle several guys working them 8-10 hours a day for decades. They can make joint ready cuts with the right blade. They can support power feeders for repetitive or precision critical cuts. If this describes your needs than you might want one. They come with a proper fence and rails, and the mass to make it all stable and accurate. Of course you can add these things to a contractor saw as you need them, to a point.

Hybrid saws are an interesting catagory to consider. Less industrial than a cabinet saw, less expensive, more mass/power than a contractor saw, good stock fence. One thing for sure, the price of a contractor saw you outgrow plus a hybrid you outgrow plus a cabinet saw adds up.

You can do great work with a good contractor saw, and the cabinet saw isn't going to make your work any better. It may lighten the load, and depending on your situation may cost you less in the long run (cause one good cabinet saw is still cheaper than 3 burnt contractor saws, and I know guys in that place). They both do the same basic thing, spin a blade in a circle. Its what you do that determines which one you should own.

[Deuce Lee]

Deuce-I'm seriously considering the 3650. If you don't mind me asking, how are you going to pull it off for $443 with tax? I started to lean toward the Proshop, but if I can get the 3650 for that, that would just about seal the deal.

John, I buy HD store credit cards on ebay for 90% it's face value, then I use a 15% HF coupon...it only works if there is a HF store in town...otherwise you're going to have to settle for a HD 10% movers coupon...good luck

[Billy Dodd]

Peter, I'm taking the plunge. Going from part time woodworking to full time shop. That's why I've been wondering about upgrading the saw. I have a few other things I need to up grade but I have those already figured out.

[Peter Quinn]

This summer I did a boring but profitable millwork run for a contractor making parts for a web frame instalation in recording studio. Made about 5000lf of 11-ply birch into 2 1/2" strips. both edges molded. Ran plywood through that machine back to back for 6 hours straight. No stoping to cool it off, no problems with allignment the next day. Paid myself back for my shaper, powerfeed and half my saw in two days. See if you can spend time in a shop with a cabinet saw to get the difference. Play with one a little.

I know starting a new business will put you on pins and needles, maybe make some money with the contractor saw for now, save up for the saw you want? If your going for it in business it helps to start off on the right foot though, time really is money, and the cabinet saw goes a bit quicker and easier. Lots of great imports pushing the prices down, lots of really expensive European machines to grow into should your business get huge!

[Thomas S Stockton]

If your saw does what you want why upgrade. That said if you want to upgrade your in a great position to be patient and wait for a good deal to fall your way. Some of the lesser known brands of saws like Walker-turner, Clausing, Wadkins Bursgreen and Davis and Wells can be found for amazing prices on craigslist . Some of these saws are much nicer and better built than Delta or Powermatic but they go for cheap because they aren't very well known. So keep an eye out you'll never know what might fall your way.
Tom