Router table switch?

[keith ouellette]

Is there any reason not to use a simple 120v push button switch on a router table? The kind you push in once for on and then push again to release it for off.

[frank shic]

nope! post pics when you're done, ok?

[Gene Michael]

I used a rocker switch (the kind you would use for a wall switch) on my router table and it works just fine.

[keith ouellette]

nope! post pics when you're done, ok?

I'm just looking for a cheap switch. I couldn't see spending $30 on a switch.

I'll get the pics up when I'm done but i am still planning and I am still a little slow at everything.

[Tom Veatch]

Safety, functionality, and reliability are the only considerations that come to mind, and the latter two would probably be a wash in comparisons with any other type of switch you might want to use - assuming, of course, that the switches considered are all properly rated for the load. That only leave the safety issue.

The only safety concern I see would be the chance of inadvertent actuation. If the switch isn't sufficiently guarded or protected, it's conceivable you could lean against it and accidentally turn the router on (or off) at an inconvenient time. But, there are numerous ways to guard or protect the switch against accidental starts.

I fabricated a magnetic switch for my table - a contactor with a latching circuit controlled by separate on/off push-button switches. The off button stands proud of the enclosure for ease of shutdown and the on switch is recessed to reduce the likelihood of accidental actuation.

[keith ouellette]

Safety,

I fabricated a magnetic switch for my table - a contactor with a latching circuit controlled by separate on/off push-button switches. The off button stands proud of the enclosure for ease of shutdown and the on switch is recessed to reduce the likelihood of accidental actuation.

Could you explain that a little better/different. I got lost after "switch" and would like to learn more if its not to much trouble.

[Bill Huber]

This is the one I use and really like it, you can hit it with a knee and never have to let go of the wood you are working on. I have one on the TS and the router table.
They are not the cheapest but they are nice and safe.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=switch


80517

[Eric Haycraft]

Grizzly started selling switches this year for 10-15 bucks. Lots to choose from and many with the oversized stop paddles.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2008/Main/247

[George Summers]

I used a 'switched outlet' from the big box for about $7-10. I have it mounted on the front of the table and the router cord coming out the side of the table and hanging there. The outlet/switch is wired and plugged into the wall. To use, I plug in the router cord and use the switch to start/stop the router. I can unplug the router right there to change bits,, etc. Best part is I can use the outlet for other tools/purposes when I need to.

George

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I've found that those push button switches always break...at least for applications on my upright vacuum cleaner. Perhaps it's cause by overzealous foot weight. A regular light switch that is motor rated may be a more reliable solution and easily found at Home Depot or Lowes.
-Jeff :)

[John Schreiber]

Grizzly started selling switches this year for 10-15 bucks. Lots to choose from and many with the oversized stop paddles.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2008/Main/247

Those look like a bargain. Would the H8243 which says it is "rated for 110 volt, 2 HP motors up to 35 amps and 220 volt, 3 HP motors up to 20 amps" work for my router which is listed as 12 amp 2 1/4 horse?

I suspect that means the 2 1/4 horses is just marketing speak.

Then the other question is, could I also run my shop vac off of the same switch, so they both go on at the same time? The vac says that it has a four horse motor, but I know that's hooey.

[Chris Padilla]

I can find myself on 3 sides of my router table although I'm mostly on two sides of it.

Due to this, I wired in 3 switches to turn my router off and on. You need 2 3-way switches and a 4-way switch to accomplish this.

I put the switches within the table frame under the table overhang and it has worked well for me. It is nice having multiple points of shut-off (and start-up!).

Just because I overengineer everything, I probably (but don't recall for sure) used 20-A switches for my router table.

[Steve Leverich]

John, you're right - the only non-"market-speak" in router electrical specs seems to be the current. Allowing for efficiency, it takes about 10 amps at 120 volts to get 1 REAL horsepower OUTPUT, and even allowing for horsepower INPUT it takes 6.2 amps per horsepower at 120 volts.

If a switch is motor rated at a few amps over what your router draws, it should be fine... Steve

[glenn bradley]

I'm just looking for a cheap switch. I couldn't see spending $30 on a switch.

I'll get the pics up when I'm done but i am still planning and I am still a little slow at everything.

Safety first, not after the fact. The first time you find yourself in an uncomfortable position where the router is attempting to take control of your work and you are hanging on for dear life with both hands . . . . you will think $30 for a knee-switch is cheap. DAMHIKT.

[Jim Becker]

I prefer a safer switch for this kind of application...one that has a large, easy to slap "off" function. I went with the BenchDog switch for my most recent router station setup.

[Tom Veatch]

Could you explain that a little better/different. I got lost after "switch" and would like to learn more if its not to much trouble.

Keith, the significant part of that with respect to the original question was the part about recessing the "on" switch to help avoid accidental starts. The rest of it applies to the shop-built magnetic switch.

To expand on the magnetic switch part, you take a normally open relay that is rated for the load, jumper from the relay's line (input) terminal to the relay's coil through a normally open, momentary closed switch. That's the "on" switch. Jumper from the relay's load (output) terminal to the coil through a normally closed, momentary open switch. That's the "off" switch.

Note that "momentary on'' means that the switch is closed only as long as the switch is depressed and automatically opens as soon as it's released. Essentially, the switch is spring loaded to the open or off position. "Momentary off" is just the opposite - it's open (off) only as long as it's depressed and closes (on) as soon as it's released.

Note also that the circuit from the load side of the relay to the coil constitutes the "latch" that keeps the coil energized and the relay contacts closed when the "on" switch is released.


Operation is as follows:

The initial condition of the assembly is the relay contacts are open, the circuit through the "on" switch is open, the coil is de-energized, the circuit through the "off" switch is closed, and no current flows to the load or through the latch circuit.

When the "on" switch is pressed, current flows through the jumper from the line side of the relay to the coil. This energizes the coil and closes the relay allowing current to flow through the relay to the load. It also allows current to flow through the latch circuit from the load side of the relay to the coil. When the "on" switch is released, the circuit from the line to the coil is broken. The coil remains energized due to the current through the latch circuit.

When the "off" switch is pressed, the latch circuit is broken, the coil de-energizes, and the relay opens interrupting current flow to the load.

You will note that with this configuration, the two switches and jumpers should be rated for the full load instead of just the coil load because when the "on" switch is depressed, and until the relay contacts close, the full current to the load flows through the jumpers and switches. Even after the relay closes and until the "on" switch is released, the jumpers and switches constitute a current path parallel with the relay contacts.

[Bill Huber]

You will note that with this configuration, the two switches and jumpers should be rated for the full load instead of just the coil load because when the "on" switch is depressed, and until the relay contacts close, the full current to the load flows through the jumpers and switches. Even after the relay closes and until the "on" switch is released, the jumpers and switches constitute a current path parallel with the relay contacts.

I am not sure how you are doing your wiring on the latch but if it is done right then you do not need a switch that will carry the load..

80549

[keith ouellette]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I am going to use it in my planning.

Tom Veatch;
Thankyou for the thorough explanation. It is a little above me but i am going to copy it and take it with me to buy the necessary parts if it is cost wise.

I like the idea of multiple switches that chris suggested so i am going to use 2. One on each side close to the front.

[Bob Feeser]

A couple of switch related considerations. First off I use a switch that I got that is designed for router tables from Sears. I don't think it is the greatest switch, whereas the top flap came loose, and I have to glue it, on one of them. It cost me $19.95 at the time to buy it. What it does have is a buried on switch, and the only way to access the on switch is to lift the safety flap, which serves as an expanded off paddle. So in a panic situation, you couldn't miss it.
What I think is important for me, and others as well if it applies to them is that it has 2 outlets on it, both controlled by the switch. That affords me the luxury of hooking a shop vac up to it, as well as the router. So I can walk over to a router, hit one on switch, and rout away. When I want it to stop, I just tap on the big off flap.
Why use a shop vac with a router table? Mainly this, routers do not create that much waste, at least not in bulk anyway. Central vac systems in shops are nice, but they are designed to breathe through large tubing, at least 4 inches or more in size. When you attach them to a 2" device, it is like the major system is drinking through a straw. Due to the dynamics of the way a large system breathes, it does not draw a small concentrated flow, but rather a large volume of air. So if you hook up a shop vac to a 2" hose opening, which it is designed for, you will get a much greater flow of air, then if you hooked it up to the main system. This affords us 2 pleasures. 1) Greater collection of debris from the router. 2) No having to walk across the shop to turn on the large system, then walk across and turn it back off again. (That is unless you can afford the luxury of a system, that has on off relays at every station, that turns on your dust collection system, every time you turn on a stationary tool. That is another level.)
So a switch that not only has an easy access off flap, but one that also has 2 outlets controlled by that switch is a big advantage.
One other note is that I bought a Sears 5hp wet dry vac that sits/rolls underneath the table very conveniently, rarely have to empty it, and it is so quiet, you barely know it is on. Also it has a hepa filter with filtration down to .5 microns. The joy of going over to the router table, hitting one switch, seeing the quiet smooth, router and vac go on at the same time, make my pass, and shut it off, was such a great experience, when I first installed them, sometimes I would go over, while passing through the room, and turn the combo on, and off, just for the sake of the smile. It is that nice.
Whatever switch manufacturer you go for, my 2 cents is get a dual outlet switch, with a safety off flap, ready for a shop vac setup.