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Scott C. Williams
01-30-2008, 5:34 PM
Can someone explain how to get a smooth dado bottom goove cross cutting red oak on the table saw. I am making drawers and want the bottoms smooth for a tight, clean fit. Thanks

Chris Padilla
01-30-2008, 5:37 PM
What brand dado blade are you using? A router will give flat bottoms.

Eric Haycraft
01-30-2008, 5:59 PM
Just about any 180 plus dollar dado blade will produce a smooth bottom as long as your arbor is straight and not undersized. If using a cheaper blade, you often have to come in with a plane, router, or chisel and flatten it out.

Bruce Benjamin
01-30-2008, 6:05 PM
I highly recommend the Infinity, "Dadonator" set. It's a top quality dado set that consistently scores at the top of comparison reviews. It leaves a beautiful dado or rabbet.

Bruce

glenn bradley
01-30-2008, 6:07 PM
SD508 is what I have good luck with but, prefer the router for red oak (backer board at exit point).

Sean Troy
01-30-2008, 6:14 PM
SD508 is what I have good luck with but, prefer the router for red oak (backer board at exit point).

Glen, could you explain the use of the backer board? Thanks, Seanhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon5.gif

Jim Becker
01-30-2008, 8:00 PM
Glen, could you explain the use of the backer board?

This is a good technique to use for many cutting operations, both with the TS and with a router. Basically, you're putting another piece of wood at the exit point to insure you don't splinter or otherwise bugger up the exit at the end or side of the board you are working on. The "backer board" is just sacrificial scrap the same thickness as the workpiece.

Scott C. Williams
01-31-2008, 7:11 AM
Thanks everyone for the feedback. The dado set that I use is a 6" Delta carbide on a Delta Unisaw. May need to use the router for this operation.

Sean Troy
01-31-2008, 7:34 AM
This is a good technique to use for many cutting operations, both with the TS and with a router. Basically, you're putting another piece of wood at the exit point to insure you don't splinter or otherwise bugger up the exit at the end or side of the board you are working on. The "backer board" is just sacrificial scrap the same thickness as the workpiece.

Thanks Jim, There is always something good to learn here. Sean