Stanley #80 Scraper Blade Question

[Keith Beck]

I recently acquired an old, beat-up Stanley #80. It's got some pretty serious pitting, but I think the sole can be saved. The blade on the other hand, is probably beyond saving. I purchased a replacement blade at Woodcraft, but as you can see from the pic below, the replacement blade is much small than what came with the scraper. Is this the normal size for this blade or am I missing something?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03222.jpg

Keith

[Clint Jones]

I have had them with real long blades but the size woodcraft sells is the size most new ones are. Sharpen both sides and go to work! -Clint

[Sam Yerardi]

Keith,

Have you ever used an 80 before? If not, note that the blade is not sharpened the same as a regular scraper blade. You square the edge up and then put a bevel on it. There is an article about sharpening them in Fine Woodworking. I tried to find it to get the specifics for you but I couldn't find it. I'll look again tomorrow and post it when I do. I put about a 30-45 deg bevel on it. Install the blade such that where the back of the blade and the bevel meet, the back is on the top side of the 80. Install it from the bottom so that you don't hit the edge. When I install it, I loosen the adjustment screw in the middle out such that it doesn't bow the blade. I rest the 80 on a flat wood surface, and I press the blade down so it is just resting on the surface. I then tighten it so that the blade remains parallel with the mouth opening. Start with a slight bow with the adjustment screw and then as the blade dulls from use, keep adjusting the screw in until it just won't cut anymore, then resharpen.

[Marcus Ward]

When you sharpen it, do it like you'd do a plane blade and go to the finest grit. If you do so, the hook you turn will be correspondingly sharp and produce a very fine finish.

[Robert Rozaieski]

If it's not already beveled, hone and polish it without the bevel, like a regular card scraper. It's easier to maintain and hone (just hone and burnish like a regular card scraper) and works just the same. I tried it years ago when I bought my #80 as the edge needed to be completely reground. I've never ground the bevel on it and it works just fine. I'm not sure why Stanley ever put a beveled edge on these blades. Probably to make them "easier" to sharpen, more like a plane blade. The problem is, the bevel makes them harder to sharpen not easier. Just treat it like a regular card scraper and you'll be golden. You get more edges out of it that was as well.

[Maurice Metzger]

When you do get it set up, give the blade a break once in a while. I actually turned a Hock replacement blade blue once while working on an ash table top.

Maurice

[Keith Beck]

Thanks for the info and to answer your question, Sam, I actually never have used an 80 before. I haven't had a whole lot of luck with handscraping, so I thought I'd give this a shot.

It sounds like the Woodcraft replacement blade is the standard size now, so I'll sharpen it up and try to make some shavings.

Thanks again.

Keith

[Sam Yerardi]

Keith,

The first time you bring up a shaving with it it will bring a huge smile to your face. Guaranteed. Note that if you are only generating dust, the egd estill needs work. Push the 80 away from you when you use it. You can pull it but it works better by pushing. When you sharpen the blade, feel the edge with your finger (carefully) and make sure you can feel the curl at the end. You can try with or without removing it. I leave it on. When you push try pushing straight ahead, and try pushing with it canted a bit in one direction or the other to get a feel for what you can do. Follow the grain. You will see very quickly that the grain can change direction in midstroke but it looks normal. When you scrape and you get a rough cut, simply turn around and just scrape that part from the opposite direction. Have fun!

[Marcus Ward]

I tend to pull mine as it cuts less aggressively but either way works. One thing you want to do is file the blade bed to make sure it's flat and doesn't have any bumps or the thing will chatter like mad. Another thing is don't tighten the blade in like you're afraid it's gonna be stolen - it'll bow the bar on the back and let the blade chatter. There is a video on tuning the 80 in fine woodworking that is excellent for getting them up to speed. I sharpen my blade at a 45, I think it works better that way.

[Eddie Darby]

If you know the thickness of the original blade, then you can buy any scraper blade material that is the same size or bigger, and then cut it down to fit.