LN rabbet block plane

[James Carmichael]

I'm seriously thinking of pulling the trigger on the LN 60-1/2R since Woodcraft has them on sale at 20% off. Any thoughts on this plane? I'm interested in it primarily for shoulder work, cleaning rabbets, and general block plane tasks.

My Stanley LA block plane (enhanced with a Hock A2 iron) is a "goto" tool.

Yikes, is it ever a slippery slope! 4 years ago when I got interested in WW, I wouldn't have dreamed of spending a c-note-plus on a hand tool (of course, now a tank of gas for my truck isn't a whole lot less than a c-note:().

[Marcus Ward]

Given that you can't find a good Sargent 507 for less than the LN version it's probably a fair buy. I'll be the first to poopoo the pricey planes in favor of the vintage stock - but only when the vintage stock is a lot cheaper. This ain't the case here. If it were me I'd get the skew block plane (copy of a stanley 140) as it might be a bit better on crossgrain cuts, although since it's only open on one side it can be a pain sometimes to set up the cut in a convenient direction. Plus it has a fence. I've got the Stanley 140 and really like using it for cleaning up tenons. For shoulder work you really ought to have a shoulder plane since the bearing surface is larger. I've got a Veritas large shoulder plane and love it. The ergonomics are outstanding and make it convenient to use in a variety of positions and it cost only a few dollars more than a vintage stanley 93, and I think it's a better plane.

[John Michael]

Marcus,

It's funny you mention the low angle skew as your choice. I was about to order the same plane as James today, however while ordering a tail vise on the LN site and looking over the block planes I could no longer decide whether to get the 60 1/2 or the skew, and ended the day with neither. Could you possibly further explain you rational behind the skew over the rabbet, besides the advantage in crossing grains.

[Marcus Ward]

Simply that any tenons are going to be cross grain by their nature and a skewed blade is going to cut that better than one straight across. Low angle is usually good enough in this situation because shoulder planes work fine too, it's just a preference I guess. My only beef with it is that it's so fragile with only one side connected and so I only use it for tenon trimming. I use a 60 1/2 for everything else. I'm not sure how tough the LN version of this plane is, I have the Stanley 140. I heard report of someone dropping their LN and getting the front and back parts way out of alignment so it's definitely an issue and might be why the sargent 507 design might be better. Who knows, it's all a coin toss.

[Tim Leo]

I have the LN 60-1/2R rabbet block and I can tell you from first hand experience that is an outstanding plane. I use it to clean up rabbits, trim tennons to size, and general block plane useage. I love it and I would replace it in a minute if something ever happened to it. It is a heavy plane and it is a joy to use.

That said, I wish it had an adjustable mouth, and I wish I had the knickers installed on it.

[Hunter Wallace]

Marcus,
I have the L-N 60 1/2R and find that I use it all the time.
The skew plane(s) are nice, but you may find that you
need two (a left and right) if the grain doesn't cooperate
(which it seldom does!!!:p)
I bought mine at Woodcraft about 2 years ago when the
had a % discount and went back and forth on whether
I neede it or not...now I'm glad I did.
Oh, and btw, it isn't advertised but if you send it to L-N
they can put a nicker blade on one or both sides for about
(don't hold me to it) $25 per side. I think I'm going to do that
pretty soon with mine.
Good luck!

[David Tiell]

Marcus,
I have the L-N 60 1/2R and find that I use it all the time.
The skew plane(s) are nice, but you may find that you
need two (a left and right) if the grain doesn't cooperate
(which it seldom does!!!:p)
I bought mine at Woodcraft about 2 years ago when the
had a % discount and went back and forth on whether
I neede it or not...now I'm glad I did.
Oh, and btw, it isn't advertised but if you send it to L-N
they can put a nicker blade on one or both sides for about
(don't hold me to it) $25 per side. I think I'm going to do that
pretty soon with mine.
Good luck!
When I called LN to order mine, I asked about the knickers and they had one on the shelf with them already on itI bought it and love it!

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/263582053.jpg

I sold the one I had as soon as I was done with the magazine article. It doesn't do shoulder work as well as a shoulder plane and is way too heavy for my tastes as a block plane.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/274460201.jpg

Being no larger than a Stanley 60 1/2, it lacks depth to tackle deep shoulders. It has application to cut the shallow rabbet gains used in small boat planking, but it's pretty expensive to keep one around just for that purpose, and I find the significantly additional weight of the LN over a Stanley enough to make the LN awkward and clumsy in comparison. I like weight in a smoother, but don't really need it in a block plane.

[John Dykes]

Bob,

A bit off topic - but I respect your knowledge and approach. If I were a younger man, I'd ask to sweep your floors as an apprentice for a few years.

Regretfully,
- jbd

[Hank Knight]

I have a pair of LN 140s, but I do not have, and have never used, a LN 60 1/2R, so I can't comment on those. I do not recommend the 140s for general block plane use. They are fairly large planes and, like Bob Smalser's comment about the 60 1/2R, I find them far too heavy for general use as a block plane. These two issues, size and weight, in my opinion, make them unwieldy for trimming tenon cheeks, except for very large ones, the job at which they are supposed to excel. I use my shoulder planes or a chisel for that task. The 140s are good for cross grain rabbets and grooves with the grain, and the fences are a nice improvement over the Stanley 140 for these tasks. I don't find the 140s much use for anything else. IMHO they are very expensive special purpose planes.

My $.02

Hank

[Marcus Ward]

The stanley one must be much lighter and smaller than the LN version as I don't find mine to be heavy or exceptionally large. It's about halfway between a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2. I use it for large tenon cheeks, using the shoulder plane for pretty much everything else. Large leg through tenons on mission style table tops though, nothing beats the 140 for getting them to a perfect fit.

[Hank Knight]

Marcus,

The LN 140s are somewhat larger than the Stanley 140s. I don't have the dimensions at hand so I can't be more specific. Perhaps someone who has both can post pics for a comparison. The LNs are also made of heavy bronze, I guess to address the fragility issue. They are way heavier than the Stanleys. I agree, the LN 140s are great tor triming large tenon cheeks like the through tenons you mention, but I find them awkward for smaller tenons.

Hank

[JayStPeter]

The 60 1/2R is a nice little plane. It's great if you don't already have a block plane and shoulder plane. Now that I got a LV med. shoulder plane, I don't use it as much. I'll eventually get a large shoulder plane and suspect I'll sell it at that point. I think it's easier to make the cuts flat and square with the shoulder plane. It's also not as comfortable as my other LA block plane because of the odd shaped sides. The good news is I'll probably get a significant percentage of what I paid back when I sell it. It is a good way to have something to use for those functions until you get the more specialized planes. Lately I use it when my other block plane is dull :cool:.

[Hank Knight]

I went home for lunch and measured my LN 140s. The 140 sole is 6 5/8" long and 1 3/4" wide without the side plate. The side plate adds 1/8" to the width. For comparison, my LN 60 1/2 and my Stanley 60 1/2 are the same size: 6 1/8" long and 1 3/4" wide. The 140, including the side plate, is 1/2" longer and 1/8" wider than the LN and the Stanley 60 1/2. I don't have a Stanley 140, but these dimensions should give everyone an idea of the size of the 140s compared to the Stanley and LN low-angle adjustable mouth block planes. The bronze casting of the 140 is significantly heavier than the ductile iron casting of LN 60 1/2 which is, in turn, heavier than the Stanley 60 1/2.

Hank

[David Marcus Brown]

The bronze casting of the 140 is significantly heavier than the ductile iron casting of LN 60 1/2 which is, in turn, heavier than the Stanley 60 1/2.
Hank

Does anyone know what the difference in weight is between the bronze 140 and the iron 140?

thanks!
Dave

[Hank Knight]

Does anyone know what the difference in weight is between the bronze 140 and the iron 140?

thanks!
Dave


Dave,

As I said above, I don't own a Stanley 140, so I can't give you comparative weights between the Stanley and the LN bronze 140. This morning I weighed my LN bronze 140, a LN adjustable mouth block plane (60 1/2) and a Stanley 60 1/2. Here are the weights for each of those:

LN bronze 140: 2 lbs even, without the fence assembly; 2 lbs. 3 1/2 oz. with the fence assembly.

LN adjustable mouth block plane (60 1/2): 1 lb 11 oz.

Stanley 60 1/2: 1 lb 5 oz.

Just for fun, I weighed my LN Bronze 102: 15 7/8 oz.

Hope that gives you something to go on.

Hank

[David Marcus Brown]

Thanks for the numbers Hank.

I'm wondering if someone has weighed an iron version of the Lie Nielsen 140.


http://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/140newnick_iron_l.jpg

cheers,
Dave

[James Carmichael]

Update: ordered the 60 1/2R, I figured $119 & free shipping was too good to pass up, and the LNs seen to hold their value well if I decide to part with it.

I find the 140 fascinating, though, and have my eye out on Ebay for a vintage Stanley or MF 07.