Sawmill advice

[Justin Sizemore]

I was hoping to get some advice on preparing antique heart pine for a project I'm planning.

I have two massive southern pine columns (about 18-24" in diameter and 8' long) that were salvaged from a building my grandfather once owned. A former tobacco factory, it was built around 1845 and torn down in 1980. I assume the columns were made by simply felling trees and stripping off the bark and outer sapwood. The pillars have been sitting in a dry basement since being removed from the structure. They appear to be in fine condition (no moisture damage, etc.).

My questions are, first, how hard would it be to find a boutique sawmill operation that would be willing to mill this wood? (I'm located in eastern Virginia in case anyone knows of a good outfit within a couple hundred miles.) Second, I assume wood that's been protected from the elements for 160 years will be sufficiently dry for furniture use, but I may be wrong. (Obviously, I'll give the rough lumber some time to acclimate and release any internal stresses before jointing and planing it to final dimensions.)

A long-time reader of this forum, I've never posted a question before and any thoughts or words of wisdom would be much appreciated.

[Michael Weber]

If you call the woodmizer or other bandmill manufacturers they will give you the name of sawyers near by. I would think there would be some in your area.

[Randy Cohen]

try posting up your request here: arboristsite.com

there is a sawmill thread.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

As was said, you can call Woodmizer for a mill location. Also check Woodweb for the location of a mill near you. There should be no problem in finding someone to mill the size you specify. It would be best to carry the timbers to the mill to save expense and provided there's no complications it's maybe an hour's work. Just make sure the sawyer has a metal detector as structural members will likely have metal in them and you don't want to pay for a mill's blades.

[Brandon Shew]

Call Buba at Partner's Tree in Norfolk (on Princess Anne Rd.). In addition to tree work, he runs a small mill and he's (somewhat) local for you. PM me for more details.

[Gary Breckenridge]

Yes, it will work. :cool: One warning: check for nails or other metal in the wood.:eek:

[Justin Sizemore]

Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I have a few good lines on local sawmills.

I've looked the columns over carefully for signs of nails, and while I don't see any, it probably would be a good idea to use a metal detector. Sawmill blades, from what I understand, are rather expensive.

This leaves the question of moisture content. I had always assumed lumber of this vintage would be sufficiently seasoned, but most of the antique pine flooring manufacturers still kiln-dry their wood. Is there a good reason for this? I realize that lumber air-dried in the southeastern US won't get below 20% or so, no matter how long it's left out. But it seems to me that lumber that's been kept inside for 160 years would be sufficiently dry and stable to do just about anything.

If I'm right, why is it that antique pine dealers bother kiln-drying this stuff?

[Philip Duffy]

Justin, There is a guy in Lanexa who does what you are asking. Check the local phone book as I think there is a listing. Philip

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Pine is prone to have pockets of sap in the lumber. When pine is run through a kiln it not only dries the wood but "sets" the pitch pockets - hardens them. Without that treatment they stay soft indefinetely.