Plantation Shutters

[David Less]

Hi,

Has anyone built any interior plantation shutters. It looks like a simple style and rail constuction but I'm not sure how to mount the center loovers and the loover rod. The store ones use little pieces of wire but theres got be be a simpler way for us do it your selfer's with full blown workshops. I don't want to have to spend money on plans. I figured I could use hardwood dowels for the loover pivot pins but still not sure how to mount the center loover rod to each loover.

Can anyone give me some advise?

David

[keith ouellette]

Norm did a great set of these on New yankee. He showed how to make the jigs you will need. It wasn't an easy one to do and is well out of my skill range. Start at new yankee work shop and look for plantation shutters.

[Carl Eyman]

I know you said you don't want to spend the money on plans, but isn't it sensible to spend $10 on plans and have a good result than not spend it and waste $50 worth of material, time. and have no product or one you don't like? IMHO, of course.

[David Less]

I know you said you don't want to spend the money on plans, but isn't it sensible to spend $10 on plans and have a good result than not spend it and waste $50 worth of material, time. and have no product or one you don't like? IMHO, of course.

Pretty much in my defense the only part I'm not sure of is how Norm fastens the loover bar to the loovers. I didn't want to spend 25 bucks on Norms plans for this.

David

[Dick Heatwole]

Woodline sells a 3 bit set to make the louvers and pins to install the louvers, etc. They will enclose a free plan along with the set. you will need a stapler to attach the adjustment rod.
I made 4 sets and they turned out to MBH complete satisfaction. I got the hinges from Rockler not sure of the number but you can do a search on their web site
Good Luck

[Steve Roxberg]

Woodline sells a 3 bit set to make the louvers and pins to install the louvers, etc. They will enclose a free plan along with the set. you will need a stapler to attach the adjustment rod.
I made 4 sets and they turned out to MBH complete satisfaction. I got the hinges from Rockler not sure of the number but you can do a search on their web site
Good Luck

The Woodline set is often on Amazon at a cheaper price.

I also know of a sourc for the louver material.

[Mike Forsman]

David,

I have made plantation shutters for about 7 of the 8 windows on the front of my house. I will be making the last one in several weeks and another batch of shutters before too long (need to finish some other projects first).

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Here is the link to the thread where I first posted those pictures of one of the windows. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17128&page=2

They are not really that hard to make. I did quite a bit of research prior to starting construction on the first batch. I even made a prototype out of cheap construction pine to make sure it would work the way I wanted it too. During my research, I discovered that plantation shutters were made of pine, basswood, maple, popular, and many other woods. I was planning to paint mine, so I decided to make mine out of soft maple. I thought pine, basswood, and popular would be too soft to stand up well in a house with 3 teens. Soft maple was not too expensive so I went with that. The last one will be stained and is being made out of red oak.

I built the rails and stiles using mortise and tenon joints. I made the rails slightly thinner than the stiles.

I though about making the louvers curved, but after looking at shutters in local stores, I noticed that many of the custom made shutters were made with flat louvers. So, I made mine flat too. I also used less wood by making the louvers flat. I rounded over the edges with a bull nose bit.

To attach the louvers to the stiles, I used shutter pins from woodworkers supply. (http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=812-395 (http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=812-395)).

I made the tension/tilt rod out of maple and used a bull nose bit on that too.

I made sure that I test fit all the parts together prior to doing the paint and final assembly. I was not sure that I would get a good finish with the shutters put together, so I painted mine before final assembly. I used Fuhr finish from Homestead finishing on mine. I sprayed it on to get a good smooth finish.

The most complicated part of the entire project was figuring out how to attach the louvers to the tension/tilt rod. All of the shutters I looked at locally had the louvers attached to the tension/tilt rod with staples. But, then I found several online places that custom built shutters. These companies talked about using brass eye screws instead of staples. The claimed that the brass eye screws would not pull out like the staples would. So I used brass eye screws. Put all of the eye screws in both the tension rod/tilt rod and into the louvers. Then using needle nose pliers I spread the eye screw in the tension/tilt rod just enough to put the eye screw from the louvers into the tension/tilt rod and then closed the tension/tilt rod eye back closed. Here are some details for the tension/tilt rod attachment that I tried to describe in words. I should point out that I did use solid brass and not brass plated eye screws. Brass was much easier to bend.

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Continued in my next post

[Mike Forsman]

Continued from my previous post

I also built a tension adjustment screw. When I built the prototype, I discovered that the louvers would not stay in position. So, I built in an adjustment screw to tighten one of the louver pins and keep it from moving unless someone moved the tension/tilt rod. I put the access hole for this adjustment screw on the hinge side of the shutter. I also put a neoprene washer that fit the screw and inside of the hole so that the screw would not back out when the louvers were tilted.

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The line drawing attempts to show how adjustment screw is constructed. I drilled a hole all of the way through on one of the louver holes about 3 up from the bottom of the shutter. I used that as a reference to make a stepped hole from the outside. I then counter drilled a hole so that I could put a threaded insert into the hole. I used a 10-24 screw and put a neoprene washer that I found in the plumbing area of a local hardware store (not one of the big box units). This neoprene washer was just a little bit bigger in diameter than the hole. this allowed just enough friction to keep the screw from working loose as the louvers move. These shutters have been up now for over 2 years, and so far, the adjustment screws have not moved a bit.

I also had to build frames to go inside of the sheet rock around the windows. There was no way that those window openings were straight, square, level, or plumb. I build the frames and shutters at the same time. I think for the next batch, I will build the frames first, then build the shutters to fit the frames. As it was, I had to try to keep track of each frame and the shutter that went into that specific window.

If I can help with any more info, let me know.

[David Less]

Guys thanks for the valuable information. Mike great write up for the do it yourselfer from scratch. I think I'll follow your design, that way no need to buy a profile router bit for the loovers.

I told my wife just let me post on Sawmill Creek and I can make my own rather than spending 500.00 on store bought.

Thanks again everyone

David

[Ed Bamba]

Mike, not sure if you mentioned it or not. But how thick are the rails, stiles and louvers? I like your idea of flat louvers; I was wondering why the tapered louvers on some shutters.


Thanks, Ed

[frank shic]

david, i hope your wife doesn't come to hate us!!! ;)

[Mike Forsman]

Mike, not sure if you mentioned it or not. But how thick are the rails, stiles and louvers? I like your idea of flat louvers; I was wondering why the tapered louvers on some shutters.


Thanks, Ed

Ed,

The louvers are 3/8" by 2 1/2". This is seems to be a standard size for the louvers. They overlap each other by 1/4" on each side. So, the non-overlapped space when the louvers are closed is 2". The louvers are just bull nosed. The louvers will not be completely vertical when closed, but the ones in the stores don't either. I did route a relief in the stiles so that the louvers would close more.

The stiles are 2" by 1 1/4".

The top rail is 1" thick by 4" high. The bottom rail is 1" thick but the how high it is depends on the height of the window. It has to be sized up to make the opening space an even multiple of 2".

Hope this helps.

[Fred Floyd]

I bought the plans from Norm's New Yankee Workshop and made the shutters as he did, with curved louvers.

I tried the router bit method without much success. With about 11 windows to do, I convinced my better half that I need the Shop Fox moulder. That turned out to make the project more expensive, but the louvers came out perfect.

The first batch was three windows in the living/dining room. I am quite pleased with the results.

[Fred Floyd]

In Norm's plans, he includes the making of two jigs that are essential to placing the staples in the louvers and control bars -- well worth the $10.00 that they ask.

[Calvin Crutchfield]

Fred,

Thanks for your information. I was informed/volunteered today to make the shutters for the house. I have a cpl questions for ya if you don't mind.

You decided to purchase the shop-fox molder, is the one Norm used he W and H? ($1875) ? I see the shop-fox molder on Amazon (sold by Grizzly) is the GO552 while the one on Grizzlys site is the G0488. Which one did you get and why?

Where did you get knives made? Were you able to get the kind Norm uses?

Did you alter from the plans from NYW at all?

Apologize if these questions will be answered in the plans. I ordered the plans and dvd today and am mostly curious about the molder/knives

[J. Greg Jones]

I have made plantation shutters for about 7 of the 8 windows on the front of my house. I will be making the last one in several weeks and another batch of shutters before too long (need to finish some other projects first).


Mike,

Those look great! We have a front window almost identical to that one that my wife wants me to make shutters for. I've bought the Woodline bits and pins, have Norm's video and plans, and have the wood set aside for the project. What has stumped me so far is how to handle hinging the center panel on the 3-pane windows. Could you give some details on how you did yours and perhaps post some pictures of the shutters in the swing-open position? I'd really appreciate it as I really like what you have done with yours. Thanks!

[Mike Forsman]

Mike,

Those look great! We have a front window almost identical to that one that my wife wants me to make shutters for. I've bought the Woodline bits and pins, have Norm's video and plans, and have the wood set aside for the project. What has stumped me so far is how to handle hinging the center panel on the 3-pane windows. Could you give some details on how you did yours and perhaps post some pictures of the shutters in the swing-open position? I'd really appreciate it as I really like what you have done with yours. Thanks!

Greg,

I'm having a late day at the office today. I will attempt to get home early enough tomorrow to take some pictures of the shutter in the open position and with some other details to help understand how it works together.

Mike

[Guy Germaine]

Ed,

The louvers are 3/8" by 2 1/2". This is seems to be a standard size for the louvers. They overlap each other by 1/4" on each side. So, the non-overlapped space when the louvers are closed is 2". The louvers are just bull nosed. The louvers will not be completely vertical when closed, but the ones in the stores don't either. I did route a relief in the stiles so that the louvers would close more.

The stiles are 2" by 1 1/4".

The top rail is 1" thick by 4" high. The bottom rail is 1" thick but the how high it is depends on the height of the window. It has to be sized up to make the opening space an even multiple of 2".

Hope this helps.

Can I ask why the rails and stiles are so thick? I was just assuming that one would use standard 3/4" material.

[BOB OLINGER]

I'm planning on making a good number of plantation shutters this summer. Norm's and most other plans show using mortise and tennon joints. Has anyone used biskets or other joints?

[John Guerra]

These instructions are free.

http://www.woodline.com/Download/Plantation%20Shutters.pdf

If the link doesn't work, go to http://www.woodline.com/t-instructions.aspx

woodline.com and on the upper right click on "Instructions". Scroll down to the article on Plantation Shutters.

John

[Mike Forsman]

Mike,

Those look great! We have a front window almost identical to that one that my wife wants me to make shutters for. I've bought the Woodline bits and pins, have Norm's video and plans, and have the wood set aside for the project. What has stumped me so far is how to handle hinging the center panel on the 3-pane windows. Could you give some details on how you did yours and perhaps post some pictures of the shutters in the swing-open position? I'd really appreciate it as I really like what you have done with yours. Thanks!

Greg,

Here are the details about the hanging the plantation shutters when there are more than 2 panels. I included pictures of the 4 panel shutters first because the pictures came out better. This first picture is of a 4 panel window. It is quite a bit smaller than the big window in the earlier post.

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This picture shows the shutter in the folded open position. The hinges are installed on the window side for the panel that folds and on the room side for the side next to the window frame.

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The next two pictures show the panels as they are when they are in various stages of open.

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This picture shows the trim that I installed around the window opening to provide a square opening with enough support for the hinge screws to bite into. The trim has a stop in it to prevent the shutter from swinging into and hitting the window. I used magnetic catches to keep the shutters in the closed position.

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The next post will show the larger shutters with the 3 panels.

[Mike Forsman]

These are some pictures of the larger shutters with 3 panels instead of 4. These are open pictures of the shutter from the earlier post.

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[Mike Forsman]

I'm planning on making a good number of plantation shutters this summer. Norm's and most other plans show using mortise and tennon joints. Has anyone used biskets or other joints?

Bob,

I used mortise and tennon joints because I wanted the windows to be strong, last for a long time, and have a good appearance. I also did research on the web and found that most custom shutters use mortise and tennon joints. I was concerned about the strength of using biscuit or other joints. The plans that John Guerra references shows the Stiles and rails attaching with screws and plugged to fill the holes.

[Mike Forsman]

Can I ask why the rails and stiles are so thick? I was just assuming that one would use standard 3/4" material.

Guy,

I used thick material because of the research that I did before starting construction. All of the sizes that I found on the web and and I measured at local home centers and window covering companies seemed to indicate that this size seemed to be a relatively standard size. Also, the plans that John Guerra reference show this same size. I did make the rails a little bit thiner because I liked the look and I didn't have to get the mortise and tennon joints quite as accurate. Also based on th size of the windows I was doing, I was concerned about how strong the shutters would be and how they would look if they were made out of 3/4 stock.

Mike

[BOB OLINGER]

Mike,

Thanks for the reply; also for the many pictures and other info which raises another question. Our windows are casements with cranks. Even the newer low profile cranks appear they will prevent the plantation shutters from closing tight unless I come up with some unique engineering. A recent thought is removing and replacing all the window casing with a thicker casing to which I can directly attach the hinges for the shutters. This is instead of mounting the shutters on the inside of the window jambs. What do you think? It will add quite a bit more expense, but if the casings are milled correctly, they should blend in and not look too bulky. Thanks,

bob

[Mike Forsman]

Mike,

Thanks for the reply; also for the many pictures and other info which raises another question. Our windows are casements with cranks. Even the newer low profile cranks appear they will prevent the plantation shutters from closing tight unless I come up with some unique engineering. A recent thought is removing and replacing all the window casing with a thicker casing to which I can directly attach the hinges for the shutters. This is instead of mounting the shutters on the inside of the window jambs. What do you think? It will add quite a bit more expense, but if the casings are milled correctly, they should blend in and not look too bulky. Thanks,

bob

Bob,

Here are some links to web sites that have information about plantation shutters. This is some of the information that I used when I designed and made my shutters. I did not directly copy anyone specific shutter design or approach. I looked at the various options and made modifications to what I thought would look best and work for me and my home.

This site has quite a bit of information about plantation shutters. I found them helpful also. This is the site that helped me make up my mind about trying to use staples or brass eyelets.

http://www.diyshutters.com/specs.HTM

They also show sizes on this page:

http://www.diyshutters.com/CSISpecs.HTM#dimensions

This site shows ways to install plantation shutters on various types of windows. I found this page helpful when I was trying to determine the strategy I would use to mount my shutters.

http://www.buyplantationshutters.com/shutters/installation.html

Also the FAQ on plantation shutters.

http://www.buyplantationshutters.com/shutters/faq.html

As I said earlier, these are some of the sources that I used to help me determine the size of the shutter parts and also, the way to mount the shutters. I also looked at plantation shutters in the local stores and window treatment shops. Helped me figure out that there are many ways to build plantation shutters. All of them have their pros and cons.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[J. Greg Jones]

Mike,

Thanks for posting the additional pictures-that's very helpful! I had thought about making the the center panel a hinged off of one of the side panels, but I was concerned that the weight of two tall panels hinged together could possibly sag. Did you encounter this at all, or is it a non-issue?

Thanks again,

Greg

[Mike Forsman]

Greg,

Over the years, there has been a little bit of sag. But not much and not really enough to be concerned about. I believe that if I would have used higher quality hinges, this would have not been any kind of issue.

[Michael Weber]

David, I built some plantation shutters many years ago before I had any real tools. I used brick mold for the stiles since I didn't have any way of making them. Anyway, I used a long narrow staple in each louver. Pushed them in by holding the staple in a pair of pliers. Once all the louvers had staples in I laid the rod on top of the louvers (the louvers were installed between the stiles by then) , and one by one used the pliers again to press the stables into the rod after looping it through the appropriate louver staple. Slow, akward, and hard on the hands but they still work. I did use short piece of hardwood dowels for the pivots. I clamped a hand drill in a Workmate and using a board to guide the louvers, fed them into the drill bit one at a time to drill the dowel holes. I forget exactly how I beveled the louvers but did that somehow. Had no way to thickness the louver material at the time so looked around until I found some thin salvage material at a surplus store.

[Tim Malyszko]

Does anyone else make a similar louver router bit like the one in the Woodline set? I have all the other router bits in Whiteside and I would hate to spend $50 for a cheap router bit. Specifically, I am looking for the louver profile in either Whiteside or Freud, but have been able to find it.

Thanks.

[John Stankus]

I had built a jig to make the slats using a planer. See thread below. Rather than buying a router bit, a simple jig can be used to make the louvers.


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=64102&highlight=plantation+shutter

Regards

John

[Cam Martin]

Hi

I am about to undertake construction of shutters and I am just trying to work out what I am going to do for the slats. I have made plantation shutters previously but, with flat slats. This time round I want to the elliptical shaped slats. I was planning to use my thicknesser/moulding machine to do this (Similar to New Yankee workshop technique).

My problem is the moulding knife design. I am looking at having the slats around 90mm wide and 14 mm thick. Has anyone had these moulding knives made before and what design was used?

Cheers
Cameron

[Ed Bamba]

Hi

I am about to undertake construction of shutters and I am just trying to work out what I am going to do for the slats. I have made plantation shutters previously but, with flat slats. This time round I want to the elliptical shaped slats. I was planning to use my thicknesser/moulding machine to do this (Similar to New Yankee workshop technique).


Just curious as to why you prefer to go with elliptical, as opposed to flat slats, for your next set shutters?

Ed

[Cam Martin]

Just curious as to why you prefer to go with elliptical, as opposed to flat slats, for your next set shutters?

Ed


Hi Ed

I suppose the main reason is the challenge. I have made shutters using flats slats and elliptical is the next step. Just like to keep it interesting! :)

Cheers
Cameron

[Tim Malyszko]

Cam,

Good luck with the shutters. I'm starting our plantation shutters this weekend and am going with the 'flat' shutters my first time around. My wife said I can get a molder if I want it, especially since there is a 'new' used one locally on craigslist, but I just cannot justify the $1,600 right now.

[Cam Martin]

Cam,

Good luck with the shutters. I'm starting our plantation shutters this weekend and am going with the 'flat' shutters my first time around. My wife said I can get a molder if I want it, especially since there is a 'new' used one locally on craigslist, but I just cannot justify the $1,600 right now.


Hi Tim

Good Luck to you as well. You should enjoy the process - very satisfing at the end. Just remember accuracy is the key! (As I am sure others have stated already).

Just out of curiosity what type of wood are you using?

I think that may have been another reason why I chose to use elliptical shaped slats was to convince the wife i needed a moulding machine - "If you want shutters I will need to buy a moulding machine to get the blades right" - that was enough to convince the wife! :D. I now have a new thicknesser/moulding machine!! :D

I have found a tool shop that will make the custom knives for me. I am just having to finalise the design of the elliptical shape. I am close but just wanted to confirm with others on the radiuses used, especially the radiuses on the edges of each slat.

Cheers
Cameron

[Tim Malyszko]

Hi Tim

Just out of curiosity what type of wood are you using?

Cheers
Cameron

I am going with 100% Poplar on the painted ones, which I buy locally for $1.50/BF.

I changed my mind and am going to try using the following router bit to make an elliptical profile (profile O):

http://eagleamerica.com/architecturalmolding-cutters/p/174-2805/

If it doesn't work out, I will go back to the flat slats.