Need to build a work bench

[Tim Wagner]

I ordered Norms Plans from season one. which seems to be similar to the plans in FWW issue 53. Any other favorites out there?

Space is limited. so I think I should build one that stand in the center of the room. Ideas?

[harry strasil]

draw your shop to scale on paper, put in all the tools, etc you are gonna have and let the available space tell you what size, I used to make to scale width and depth pieces of colored paper to lay out such things, makes it easier to reposition to see space available and most efficient use of space.

[Mike Heidrick]

I find I use my bench for all kinds of projects. I do not have a fancy one. In fact mine is two pieces of stacked plywood laminated with a 2X apron and a 2X base and frame with a heavy duty Wilton vise. That laminate is so darn handy and easy to clean. I have done work on that bench that should have chemically destroyed it and the laminate just wipes up clean. I believe the norm one is stacked sheets as well. Consider laminating it.

[Bob Malone]

Tim,

I spent a year researching for plans and there were two benches that really stood out. THe first was Lon's bench from FWW that many have built and the second was Keith Rucker's well documented bench. Both are solid and will last several lifetimes.

The nice thing about building a bench even from plans, there are some many ways to personalize it. Vises and even the choice of woods used can change two benches built from the same plan. My olny words of advise are:
- get all of your hardware before you start cutting up wood
- buy the best quality of wood you can afford - not from the discount bin
- enjoy the process and learn from your mistakes :)
- enjoy how pretty it looks when finished, take a picture and then get used to making marks on it that show it is truely a woodworkers bench and not a piece of furniture

Enjoy the process.

Bob

[Scott Schwake]

I like this one for it's simplicity:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignArticle.aspx?id=29507

[Hank Knight]

Tim,

Before I built my current bench, I worked on a sturdy bench my father built for metalworking. It was pushed up against the wall in my shop. When I got involved in a project, I put an old door on two saw horses in the middle of my shop floor to give more space to work on. I found that I did most of my work on the sawhorse contraption, even though it was terribly unstable. I liked being able to work all sides of the project. I finally bit the bullet and built a proper bench. It was designed to stand in the middle of my shop and give me access to all sides of the work. I've used the bench for several years now and I wouldn't do it any other way.

My $.02.

Hank

[Dan Henry]

I made more of a work table that has 2 layers of particle board with a 1/4 inch MDF top that has been very good.
I like the MDF top as when it gets messed up, paint, stains or just don't look good just replace it and the top has stayed perry flat. I woulds use 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF now with some good Cross support as MDF will sag in time.

[Tim Wagner]

Wow, Lots of great ideas. Plywood and Laminate are defiantly a possibility.
But aren't you supposed to have some kind of softwood for the top? so as not to damage any projects?

If I choose to glue up some softwood, do you think I could mill them smooth enough with the TS? I don't currently have a Jointer or Planer. I do have the PM2K with a 60 tooth Deablo Blade.

[Peter Stahl]

I ordered Norms Plans from season one. which seems to be similar to the plans in FWW issue 53. Any other favorites out there?

Space is limited. so I think I should build one that stand in the center of the room. Ideas?

This is one I saw on another WW Forum. They said the designed it and Wood magazine bought the rights and put it in one their issues last year. Looks like it would work in any size shop.

http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid979295690/bclid1338937262/bctid1078950624

[JayStPeter]

Get the new book from Christopher Schwarz about workbench design and use. I wish it came out before I designed and built the bench I just finished.

Jay

[Lance Norris]

Just to add another twist, my bench top is a solid core door. Its a 28" door and was $50. Works great. The base is the kitchen base cabinet from my neighbors house. It was free. So for little money, I have a great bench. You might not be able to get your neighbors cabinets, but the solid core door is a common benchtop in lots of shops:)

[Thomas Knighton]

Get the new book from Christopher Schwarz about workbench design and use. I wish it came out before I designed and built the bench I just finished.

Jay

My advice is the exact same as above. Lots of good information to help you along the way, and a couple of plans as well. Basically, the book does everything for you except build it for you! ;)

Tom

[Don C Peterson]

My advice is the exact same as above. Lots of good information to help you along the way, and a couple of plans as well. Basically, the book does everything for you except build it for you! ;)

Tom

The one caveat I'd add here is that Chris's book is definately geared toward workbenches for hand tools. I have the book and think it's great, but then I'm primarily a neander type...

[tim rowledge]

You'd be most welcome to use my bench design

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=88bf671ab85e640cf05f92524c81f566

[John Hain]

I've had my eye on this one for awhile:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=28530

I don't know how stable the top would be, but.......it's very creative.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

It depends on what you plan to do on it. Mine is used as an assembly table more than anything and as such I didn't want anything sticking up when I slid pieces around. I built a 2x4 frame and put a solid core door on it that I got at the local lumber yard for $17 as it was dinged on one end. (Don't ask me how I remember these things :)) I've wished many times for some projects it was wider but for my shop wider wouldn't work. Then I put cheap casters under each leg. The first time I used it I went (insert favorite four letter word here) cause it was tough to move. And then I found I liked it like that. It's stable enough that it doesn't shift when working on it but isn't a real chore to move. (Would probably be better with locking casters.) I put three drawers under the top anchored to an apron and a shelf on the bottom.

Over the years it's gotten enough glue on it that it isn't really that flat any more so it's about time to flip it. When I do I'm going to put white Formica laminate on the top like in our "other shop". Never have to use a scratch pad again....scribble on it with pencil and it wipes clean with glass cleaner. Glue squeeze out? Let it dry, hit it with a putty knife and it knocks right off. I'll probably try just tacking it in a few spots with silicone to keep it from sliding around.

[JayStPeter]

The one caveat I'd add here is that Chris's book is definately geared toward workbenches for hand tools. I have the book and think it's great, but then I'm primarily a neander type...

Don't know about that. There's plenty in there about holding pieces for routing and power sanding as well. When you read it, you can decide which features are important to you based on what you do with the bench. The section on bench height, for example, spends a lot of time discussing the height you want for various tasks (higher for routing and lower for hand planing). I really think the key thing he does is make the legs flush with the front edge to give you more clamping options to the bench. Being able to hold all shapes of workpiece helps with both hand and power tools IMO.

[Albert Wagner]

I've had my eye on this one for awhile:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=28530

I don't know how stable the top would be, but.......it's very creative.

Thank you, John. I had heard rumors of this bench but didn't have a link. I will definitely build this. I have been drifting towards neandering and had been racking my brain for something exactly like this. John White from Taunton must be a genius. (And you as well for recognizing this as a good idea).

[Eric Garner]

Here is a simple and cheap workbench I designed and built. It uses a solid core top and it is pretty darn flat. I put some Maple edging around it for durability. I'll be installing dogs and a vise on it soon.

Total cost was about $200. $50 for the top and ~$150 for plywood and hardware. I'm fairly new to woodworking, and I didn't want to spend the $ and time on a real workbench until I know more.

If you are interested in the sketchup file let me know and I'lll send it your way.

[Danny Thompson]

It's not a traditional woodworking bench, but extraordinarily sturdy:

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

I used mdf instead of ply.

[Tim Wagner]

Loads of wonderful ideas. I am still researching them all. Eric I would love to have some plans. I sent you a PM with my email.;)

[Mike Hoyt]

Not trying to hijack, but any body have experience with casters on their workbench. I am still in the sharing the garage with the cars mode and a solid, but moveable workbench would be the ticket.
Mike

[Thomas Knighton]

Don't know about that. There's plenty in there about holding pieces for routing and power sanding as well. When you read it, you can decide which features are important to you based on what you do with the bench. The section on bench height, for example, spends a lot of time discussing the height you want for various tasks (higher for routing and lower for hand planing). I really think the key thing he does is make the legs flush with the front edge to give you more clamping options to the bench. Being able to hold all shapes of workpiece helps with both hand and power tools IMO.

Exactly what I was going to say. While Chris uses a lot of hand tools, he also uses a fair amount of power tools as well, and there are a fair amount of power tool operations where he suggests workholding options.

Really, it's a great book regardless of your approach, though a power tool user can function with almost any type of bench, while us Neander types...well, we need a good bench ;)

Tom

[Chris Padilla]

Not trying to hijack, but any body have experience with casters on their workbench. I am still in the sharing the garage with the cars mode and a solid, but moveable workbench would be the ticket.
Mike

Casters are great for mobility in a garage that shares time with those metal boxes on four wheels but you also want it stable once you've moved it to where you want to work on it.

Norm found an interesting design where the wheels could be pulled up and out of the way with the pull of a rope. Surf his site for it.

I'm going to use Noden's Adjust-a-Bench for my legs and mobility of my bench. :)

[Don C Peterson]

Really, it's a great book regardless of your approach, though a power tool user can function with almost any type of bench, while us Neander types...well, we need a good bench ;)

Tom

And that's pretty much what I meant to convey. Chris's book is geared more (not exclusively) toward neander types because we need a really good and versatile workbench that doesn't suffer from some of the modern conveniences (nuisances). Those who use primarily tailed tools, can get by with a less capable bench, and some of what he recommends is overkill.

As for casters, see my comments above. If you need something to hold your pieces for sanding and routering, and assembly etc... casters would probably work OK. If you are going to be doing hand planing, sawing, and mortising, I would stay away from casters, even the locking ones.

[Tom Ruflin]

I used Noden's Adjust-a-Bench with castors for the legs of my bench and my back thanks me everyday! I also have access all around my bench. With the height adjustability I use it for everything from assembly to routing to neander work and can work for more hours without a backache.

[Scott Haddix]

Tim,

Impressive prep work. That sketchup model is great!

[JayStPeter]

And that's pretty much what I meant to convey. Chris's book is geared more (not exclusively) toward neander types because we need a really good and versatile workbench that doesn't suffer from some of the modern conveniences (nuisances). Those who use primarily tailed tools, can get by with a less capable bench, and some of what he recommends is overkill.

I guess we're in violent agreement :)

I primarily use power tools, but mix in some hand tools when it makes sense. I wish Chris' book had come out a little earlier. There are a few minor design changes I could've made that would have made my bench much better. There are also a number of things he incorporates that I can and will live without.
I literally just finished my bench last weekend and already have a case where I wish the legs were flush to the front and back of the bench. It happens to be a power tool application where I want to add some support structure for cutting down panels with my guided circular saw. Attaching a temporary support structure to widen the bench would be much easier if the legs were flush instead of the euro-style trestle legs I built. That one takeaway alone is worth buying and reading the book.

[Danny Thompson]

The ones I built using the aircraft plans above are on casters from Lowes, but the locks only prevent rolling. They do not prevent rotation, so sometimes my bench shifts during hand-planing. I noticed Woodcraft has some on sale that "double-lock" that also prevent rotation.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=79077&d=1200160333

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=79078&d=1200160342