How do you make dados?

[Charles Wilson]

Just curious.

I don't have a TS and really am not planning on getting one. I am looking into accurate alternatives to make accurate dados.

Thanks,
Chuck

[keith ouellette]

There are all manner of router bits for this purpose. Some people prefer this method. Router and straight edge is all it takes.

[Lee Koepke]

i usually make mine too wide:D


currently i use my TS, but my next 'jig on the drawing board' is an adjustable dado jig for my router that i found in one of my magazines

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use a router and a jig.....or a router and a straight edge.

[Steve Clardy]

Tablesaw usually. Or a router

[Bryan Froden]

Definitely with a dado blade and table saw. I found it’s just so much easier, now that’s just me. I guess it depends on what you’re used to. I’ve posted some pictures on dados and how we use them on my website under cabinetry. XXXXXXXXXX

[Peter Quadarella]

I use a router that attaches to my EZ Smart rail.

[Jim Becker]

Dados (across the workpiece), grooves (the length of the workpiece) and rabbits/rebates (along the edge of a workpiece) can all be done with both a saw and a router. I use both methods, depending on things like convenience, workpiece size and orientation, etc., but have been gravitating more to the router method since I moved to a sliding table saw. Cross-cutting dados in panels, etc, is a snap using the router and a guide (or my Festool MFT). For long grooves, I still prefer the table saw, however, but there is no "one way is best" for this kind of work.

[George Bregar]

Like most, sometimes TS, sometimes router. I will add for wider cuts that need to be prefectly flat bottom, rooter is the best bet. Even quality stack sets will grove on multiple passes.

[Scott Thornton]

CMT Dado Blade on the table saw.

[glenn bradley]

I used to exclusively do dado's with a router. It is still my preferred method when the piece to cut is large. I have the SD508 and when appropriate feel the TS does a great job with minimal setup.

If you go with a router which I assume you will, make yourself something like this (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=46406).

[Dave Cav]

Looks like I'm the only one that regularly uses a radial arm saw, sometimes with a dado blade, sometimes making multiple cuts with the regular blade if I'm only making a few. I am probably going to switch to the router method, though.

[Michael Schwartz]

Table saw is the fastest way, but not necessarily the most accurate and won't deliver the cleanest cut.

Cutting dados with a router takes some getting used to but you will find it is quite easy after some practice. Stopped dados are a breeze with a router and you can very easily adapt your dado setups to cut sliding, and tapered sliding dovetails.

Dados can be cut with a rotuer and a single strait edge clamped accross the work piece but this is a very diffficult operation.

The key is a either a shop made jig with parallel guides for the router base and a 90 degree fence, or a guide system like the EZ Smart or Fesstool.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Not as easy as a table saw, but I found it was cheaper to by the bit than to invest in a dado blade. I will get the dado...eventually. For now, the router works really well.

[Alex Elias]

Nothing different that the other posters. I rather use a TS but router will do just fine. If the pieces are not to big on the router table. Also consider the bits, straight or spiral (they cut cleaner)

[Mike Heidrick]

Router, router table if work is small enough, and TS. Have not tried my RAS for dados yet.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I picked up a Datowhiz at the last WW show, took one of my routers that got liitle use and set it up for the Datowhiz. If I have a number of datos to cut on cabinet gabels and can cut both gables at the same time, this is the method that is the quickest to do. Long stock goes on my TS.

Greg

[Mike Henderson]

Both the TS and router will work. One problem with using the TS on a large panel is that the panel may not be perfectly flat. When you push it through the TS the depth of the dado will change (so if the panel has a bow up, the dado will not be as deep in the center). This will "lock in" the bow because when you clamp the work, the center will still be pushed out.

When you use a router, the router follows the surface so the dado is the same depth all the way across. Also, you can often clamp the panel down and get any bow out while you're cutting the dado.

Mike

[This same problem would occur on a router table, of course. It's only when you use the router hand-held, with a guide that the router can follow the wood.]

[jason lambert]

Router with a guide or even the router table. I don't have a good table saw.

[Andy Korfin]

I used my router before I had a table saw it worked fine and was a good way to get some experience. I do have ot saw that now that I have a TS with a nice set of Freud dadk blades life is much easier.

Either was they both make sawdust,

Andy



Just curious.

I don't have a TS and really am not planning on getting one. I am looking into accurate alternatives to make accurate dados.

Thanks,
Chuck

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Router. I just finished a chest of drawers and routed dados for web frames. What I like to do is clamp the two sides together and rout both sides at once, which gives matching pieces.

[Chris Padilla]

I use my pet beaver to chew me dadoes in wood. If he isn't in the mood, then next on the list is my plow plane (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57678&cat=1,41182) or router plane (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57677&cat=1,41182) when I can locate them in my disorganzied shop and usually when I locate them, the blades are dull (and I'm too lazy to sharpen them). For some reason, the sharpening elves keep skipping my shop....

So next is my CMT Precision Dado set on the TS. I like to fuss with the width for hours upon hours until the fit is so tight that once I apply glue to the joint, I can no longer fit the pieces together and glue-up becomes a lesson in futility and hair loss...and lottsa bad words stream from my garage....:o

[Brent Ring]

Table Saw - But I like the final finish a router gives so I am using both on high tolerance projects

[Al Rose]

Router, TS, and RAS depending upon length, quantity and the order in which I plan to use my machines to complete the project.

[Jason Scott]

Haven't made any yet, but just ordered my new Freud professional dado set, so that is how I am planning too

[BOB OLINGER]

Charles,

Being you don't plan to purchase a TS, the router will work fine. Just securely clamp a straight edge and be sure to hold the router firmly against the straight edge as you go as the router may tend to wander if not held tight. Also, you might consider cutting the dados before cutting your stock to length as the router can cause tear-outs (sometimes minor) on both ends due to the horizontal blade rotation. Doesn't hurt to take more than one pass depending on the depth, width, and type of wood. Just work slow and carefully and you'll get along fine.