table saw restroraton

[John Beck]

I am in the process of restoring a grizzly model 1023 saw that survived Katrina. Motor and mechanicals are now Ok but I can't fiugure out what to do about paint/rust problem. Cabinrt and trunnions have a good bit of rust but most of the paint is in good shape. Using naval jelly is out as it will remove good paint. Wire brush and sandpaper is possible but a lot of time and work. Guy at paint store suggested something called loctite extend rust neutralizer. Other similar products are called rust renew and rust restorer. Has anyone used these products and what were the results?

[Chuck Lenz]

Sandblast ? Beadblast ? Pictures are allways nice.

[Joe Skinner]

Electrolysis. Google electrolysis rust removal and you will find more info about it than you care to know. There are even youtube videos. If you have problems finding soda wash, then go to a pool supply company and ask for soda ash. They are both sodium carbonate, not bicarbonate.

Basically, 1 tablespoon sodium carbonate per 1 gallon of water. Get a battery charger from the garage and a piece of rebar. Positive lead on the rebar, negative on your part. Submerge rebar and rusty part in water and sodium carbonate solution for many hours. You should see bubbles within a few seconds. I usually clean my rebar every 6 hours or so with a green scrubbie from the kitchen.

After the part has cooked in the tank, it will be black instead of rusty red. Wire brush on a drill takes the black away and you are ready for primer.

Don't smoke around your tank, it off-gasses hydrogen. Don't need any Hindenburg experiments.

[Fred Woodward]

Check the Old Woodworking Machines site http://www.owwm.org/

You'll find everything you need to know for restoring that saw. The electrolysis method is great but takes a while. Results are outstanding though.

[M Toupin]

You really do need to get rid of the rust, it won't go away or stop on it's own. You'll need to repaint too. Brush, rattle can or sprayer to protect the surface once your done so it doesn't rust all over again. Besides, do you really want to spend all that time to make it nice just to have it rust and look like crap?

There's lots of options for rust removal:

1. wire wheel - great for small stuff. Big stuff can be done with a drill or angle grinder and a cup. down side is it's a lot of work and dirty. Can be difficult or impossible to get into some nooks and crannies.

2. naval gel/chemicals - works, but the cost can make it not cost effective and all the normal precautions apply when dealing with chemicals.

3. sandpaper/grinder same drawbacks as #1 plus you can do some real damage to machined surfaces.

4. sand/bead blasting - my "go-to" cheap, fast and it leaves a paint ready surface with no additional work. Down side is you need the equipment or send it out which will add cost.

5. electrolysis - If you have a battery charger and a tank of some sort it's the least labor intensive and cheapest of all. There is some clean up after your done soaking, but a scotch bright will take care of that. Here's a link to a short primer on electrolysis.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=731194&postcount=14

Mike

[Jim Heffner]

Ditto on the electrolysis...works great! After all rust and other debris is cleaned off and you are ready to start the painting process, start with a
couple of coats of good quality primer before painting....makes the job go a lot better and will last longer too!

[John Beck]

M Toupin : Your post covered all the rust removal methods but did not mention use of rust restorer products. This stuff stops rust converts Fe2O3 to Fe3O4 with a hard black polymer coat to act as a primer and will not rerust underneath. These are mfgs. claims, Has anyone used this stuff and what were the results? FYI I used electrolysis on the small parts e.g. hand wheels ,bolts etc ; wire brush& sandpaper on cabinet sheetmetal. Home Depot concrete cleaner SKU470843(44% Phosphoric acid ) did a great job on cast iron top.

[M Toupin]

I really dislike the stuff, it turns the stuff into kinda a plastic like substance. All I can say is try it... you decide if it's acceptable.


M Toupin : Your post covered all the rust removal methods but did not mention use of rust restorer products. This stuff stops rust converts Fe2O3 to Fe3O4 with a hard black polymer coat to act as a primer and will not rerust underneath. These are mfgs. claims, Has anyone used this stuff and what were the results? FYI I used electrolysis on the small parts e.g. hand wheels ,bolts etc ; wire brush& sandpaper on cabinet sheetmetal. Home Depot concrete cleaner SKU470843(44% Phosphoric acid ) did a great job on cast iron top.