hanging cabinets?

[keith ouellette]

I am hanging a 36" high 34" wide 15" deep cabinet. The box is made of 15/32 cabinet grade birch ply. The back is rabbited in place and held together with glue and 1 and 3/4" brads.

I can only get to one wall stud though.

Would 3 #8 2in pocket hole screws be enough to hold this cabinet up?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Probalby not.

I ran into the same problem with a 35" shop cabinet.
Fully loaded, it weighs about 2# more than my fat brother in law and the mounting cleat only hit one stud.

I have braced it (temporarily) from underneath with 2x4 "legs" until the weather gets warmer - it's in the garage.

Then, I'll either cut the drywall away and build some braces into the wall studs - which the cabinet will hide - or cover the entire wall behind with the 3/4" Chi-ply junk from Lowes I'm stuck with.

[Thomas Williams]

No, I would not use 2 inch screws. I have hung many cabinets on only one stud, but have always used 3 inch screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. However, if the stud is not near the center of the cabinet, I would also consider using some type of wall anchor.

[keith ouellette]

No, I would not use 2 inch screws. I have hung many cabinets on only one stud, but have always used 3 inch screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. However, if the stud is not near the center of the cabinet, I would also consider using some type of wall anchor.

I was thinking of a wall anchor but haven't figured out how I will get the holes to match up or if the wall anchor in drywall will be sufficient to help hold the load.

The stud is in the center of the cabinet so the screws will be in the center.

[Eric DeSilva]

Do you have nonstandard stud spacing? With a 34" width, you ought to be able to hit at least two studs since they are generally spaced 16" apart... If one is difficult because of the side wall, what about using a french cleat? At a minimum, a french cleat with one screw into the stud and several others into drywall anchors ought to provide pretty good strength--you could also run two cleats, one on the top, one near the bottom. You might have to put moulding around the edges to cover the gap created, but it should be strong enough...

[Joe Chritz]

When there is a run of cabinets and one of the individuals can only get one stud you can remove a section of drywall and replace with a 1/2 plywood strip. The whole thing is covered by the cabs.

With a single cabinet that would be problematic. A drywall anchor is better than nothing but is not really a good solution. A single good quality hanging screw will hold the weight but I would be worried about the cab racking and pivoting around the single screw without something to hold it plumb.

Cut a hole in the drywall big enough for your hand and screw a couple blocks to the adjacent stud to build it out?

Joe

[keith ouellette]

Do you have nonstandard stud spacing? With a 34" width, you ought to be able to hit at least two studs since they are generally spaced 16" apart... If one is difficult because of the side wall, what about using a french cleat? At a minimum, a french cleat with one screw into the stud and several others into drywall anchors ought to provide pretty good strength--you could also run two cleats, one on the top, one near the bottom. You might have to put moulding around the edges to cover the gap created, but it should be strong enough...

Yes; In the laundry room and one other room the studs were not 16" on center. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to the spacing.

[keith ouellette]

What if I screw a 3/4" nailer between the corner stud ( I can't screw the cabinet in to that because that side of the face frame is 3 and 1/2" wide) and the next and then screw the cabinets into that.

[Paul Greathouse]

Keith

Kreg does make a 2 1/2" pockehole screw. With the stud being in the middle you should be OK. I would use 3 screw ( 2 1/2" - 3" long) top middle & bottom.

If you wanted to use some wall anchors for extra stability on the sides, you could set the cabinet in place, mark its location, drill a pilot hole through the back of the cabinet and the drywall at the same time. Then, move the cabinet out of the way and set your anchor in the drywall, set the cabinet back in place on your original marks and it should line up.

[Randy Cohen]

i would use wall anchors. Paul's method of lining up the holes is the way to go. That is how I hung my kitchen cabinets when they didn't hit a stud and they haven't moved in 8 1/2 years.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I'm with Paul. Use 3" screws at the top and bottom of the carcass where you can hit the stud. Put expanding anchors in the upper and lower corners on both sides of the carcass to hold it flat against the wall. One stud will hold a cabinet of this size, IMHO, as long as the back is strong (read 1/2" or more thick), and/or or you use hanging strips built into the carcass.

[Rob Blaustein]

What if I screw a 3/4" nailer between the corner stud ( I can't screw the cabinet in to that because that side of the face frame is 3 and 1/2" wide) and the next and then screw the cabinets into that.

Keith--do you mean over the drywall? So you'd see the 3/4" nailer sticking out beyond the cabinet? That should work fine but won't look great. I think your options are a toss up between cutting drywall and putting 2x4 blocking between the studs, or a 1/2" ply strip as was suggested vs using drywall anchors. Good drywall anchors (and I would look into this and use really good ones) can hold a lot. We have put up a few Elfa closet systems (from the Container Store) and although I like hitting studs, we have done a few with only drywall anchors. They seem very solid. The Container Store people say the have thousands and thousands of these going into only drywall and with enough anchors, and the right ones (they supply them) there is more than enough holding power. So you should be fine hitting one stud, and using a few good drywall anchors I think.
-Rob

[keith ouellette]

Thank you for all the replies.
I was hoping everyone would say " Screwing into one stud in the center will work just fine." Nobody did. I bit the bullet and cut out the drywall and put in a scrap 2x6. I attached it to the studs by making pocket holes in the nailer and screwing the nailer into the studs that way. I recommend that for anyone in this sitch. It is way easier than toe nailing.

I am putting the cabinets up now and will post pics soon.

[Anthony Anderson]

Not sure if anyone else said this, but I don't use #8 2.5" screws to hang cabinets or any real weight supporting shelves. .5" drywall + .5" cabinet back means 1.5" in the stud. I don't feel comfortable with that. I go #10 or #12 and 3.25-3.5" SPAX screws, depending on the weight potential being supported. Just my thoughts. Regards, Bill