Difficulty fitting Delta T2 fence

[Tom Henderson2]

Greetings everyone.

Anybody fit a T2 fence to a non-Delta saw?

I'm having some difficulty fitting a Delta T2 fence to my mid-sixties Craftsman CS -- the top doesn't appear to be thick enough.

First I assembled the front rail to the guide tube, and then fitted the fence to the tube and locked it in place. I also used a couple C-clamps with very slight pressure to make sure everything stays together. Then I put the whole assembly onto the saw, supporting the tube/rail as required.

Doing this, it appears that I need to put the top of the front rail about 0.85 inches down from the top in order to have the fence sit properly on the table.

I was surprised that when I did this, the saw top doesn't appear to be thick enough to attach the rail as shown in the photos. Even if I drill new holes as close to the edges as I dare, there will only be about a half-inch of the rail in contact with the saw top. You'll see what I mean in the photos below.

So if anybody has a T2 saw installed, could you please check to see how much of the table top is exposed above the front mounting rail? Also, how thick is your top where the rails are mounted?

Thanks in advance. Shoulda known this wasn't going to be a slam-dunk....

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

[scott spencer]

Tom - There's a front and rear angle bracket....each is a different size AFAIK. Just wanted to make sure they're on the correct side.

Here's an online .pdf link (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.sawcenter.com/t2_30.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.sawcenter.com/t2_30_fence_system.htm&h=410&w=676&sz=12&hl=en&start=8&tbnid=kHMSf9aA0yyGoM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=139&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddelta%2Bt2%2Bfence%26gbv%3D2%26svnum% 3D10%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG) for the manual....probably has bigger pics than the paper copy.

In case it helps, here's a web pic I found:
http://www.sawcenter.com/t2_30.JPG

As an advanced manuever, it looks like you could slide the rails to right right a ways and gain some rip capacity....food for thought.

Good luck!

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Scott-

Thanks for your thoughts.

I have the front & rear rails properly identified; the problem is that the way it is designed, the top of the front rail needs to be 7/8 inch below the top surface. On my Sears CS, the top is only 1 1/2 inch thick... so leaves only 5/8 inch of overlap.

As the photos show, that isn't enough depth to use either the factory screws.

It looks like I can fit some #10 screws in the available real estate. Those are about half the diameter of the 8mm screws that came with the fence.

So I would need *eight* #10 screws to get the same shear area as the Delta kit, which uses two M8 screws... which would be difficult to do.

As for the lateral position... I should have mentioned that I slid the fence over to the left so that one of the holes in the rail would be visible in the photo. The actual position would be set so that the index is on the zero mark when the fence is against the blade.

So I'm contemplating whether to try and squeeze in smaller fasteners, or just give up and sell the fence before I modify it.

Decisions, decsions....

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

[keith micinski]

You want the fence to actually sit up off of the saw about a 16th so that will gain a little. I see what you mean. The thing I don't understand is I think that delta's table is only that thick to so you would run into the same problem. I just thought of something. Do you have the adjustment screws on top backed all the way out on the fence itself. if the were screwed in that would raise the fence which would lower the rail.

[keith micinski]

After looking at the picture it does look like you have the screws backed all the way out so that's not it.

[Chuck Wintle]

Hi Scott-

Thanks for your thoughts.

I have the front & rear rails properly identified; the problem is that the way it is designed, the top of the front rail needs to be 7/8 inch below the top surface. On my Sears CS, the top is only 1 1/2 inch thick... so leaves only 5/8 inch of overlap.

As the photos show, that isn't enough depth to use either the factory screws.

It looks like I can fit some #10 screws in the available real estate. Those are about half the diameter of the 8mm screws that came with the fence.

So I would need *eight* #10 screws to get the same shear area as the Delta kit, which uses two M8 screws... which would be difficult to do.

As for the lateral position... I should have mentioned that I slid the fence over to the left so that one of the holes in the rail would be visible in the photo. The actual position would be set so that the index is on the zero mark when the fence is against the blade.

So I'm contemplating whether to try and squeeze in smaller fasteners, or just give up and sell the fence before I modify it.

Decisions, decsions....

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

Tom,
Could you make some type of interface to adapt the rail to your tablesaw so modifying the rails would not be necessary? :)

[keith micinski]

Why is there such a big gap between the fence body and the piece of angle iron that attaches to the fence and rides along the front rail? That is where your problem is at. The fence rail should only need to be down the thickness of that angle iron for the fence to sit flush.

[keith micinski]

Check how the fence faces attach to the body. It looks like you should be able to slide those down more and close that gap up between the angle iron and the fence body.

[Tom Henderson2]

You want the fence to actually sit up off of the saw about a 16th so that will gain a little. I see what you mean. The thing I don't understand is I think that delta's table is only that thick to so you would run into the same problem. I just thought of something. Do you have the adjustment screws on top backed all the way out on the fence itself. if the were screwed in that would raise the fence which would lower the rail.

Hi Keith-

Thanks for your thoughts.

The adjustment screws are about midway -- so I could pick up a tiny bit but not much, and I think I need to allow for rail installation errors....

I'll have to mosey over to the local Blue Borg and see if they have a Delta saw on display and see how thick the top is, and what kind of edge-distance they use for the fence-attachment screws.

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

[Doug Lindley]

Tom,

After comparing your first picture and fig. 5 in the pdf file that Scott linked to it appears the front rail guide has 2 holes on one side to attach to the saw body and 5 holes on the other side to attach the front rail tube. Your first picture seems to show the side with the five holes against the saw. Perhaps just flipping the guide around would fix your problem. It's hard just looking at the pictures, I hope this helps out.

Doug

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Doug-

I noticed the issue with the two holes -- it apears that my front rail is not drilled properly. The rails/tube assembly will only fit one way, so there is no way to reverse it.

I'll be drilling all new holes anyway, so it isn't a huge problem for me. If I were trying to fit to the pre-drilled holes in a Delta saw, it would be another matter.

=Tom H.

[keith micinski]

I agree with doug I think you have to take the guide rail off of the tube and mount it to the other side of the rail. In the picture from the manual it is opposite of what you have. Also the rail does sit really low on the unisaw in the picture so it will on your's to.

[glenn bradley]

So I'm contemplating whether to try and squeeze in smaller fasteners, or just give up and sell the fence before I modify it.

Decisions, decsions....

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

It really looks like that fence is just not good for that saw. This is odd as a Bies will fit any saw with a table at least 1.5" thick. Is that fence perhaps for a larger cabinet saw? Delta CS should be able to confirm for you.

[Jeff Miller]

It really looks like that fence is just not good for that saw. This is odd as a Bies will fit any saw with a table at least 1.5" thick. Is that fence perhaps for a larger cabinet saw? Delta CS should be able to confirm for you.



My table is 1 1/2" and I had to keep the angle iron down 7/8" from the top and it works really good, don't know how I got along without this fence for so long.


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/fence/router058.jpg


Jeff;)

[glenn bradley]

Jeff, that is a cool looking old C-man you got there ;-)

[Jeff Miller]

Jeff, that is a cool looking old C-man you got there ;-)

I spent more on the fence than I did on the saw..........but it works very well:)


Thanks for the compliment Glenn



JEFF:)

[Anthony Amato]

I founf a link to a pdf that someone put together about installing a T2 on a craftsman saw. I am going to attempt it this weekend on a 113.299040 (from late 70's early 80's).

http://www.blue81.com/

I hope this helps...

[Jim Richards]

I just put this fence on an old Grizzly. Measurements I have are :
Edge of table : 1 5/8"
Table top to front rail : 5/8"
Table top to rear rail : 1/2"
Table top to bottom of fence : 5/32 (clearance above table).
First cut : priceless

I had to elongate the holes on the saw (old saw vs. new fence , both same price) and change hardware to 1/4-20 . but it worked great . Used all the links others have listed . Here's another .

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Jamie/blog/2817

[Anthony Amato]

I mounted mine yesterday. The front rail (angle iron) was about 11/16 from the top of the table. This left about 1/8" gap under the fence. I can close the gap if I want to, by adjusting the plastic screws on the fence. These are the ones that rind on top of the square tube.

[Anthony Amato]

I mounted mine yesterday. The front rail (angle iron) was about 11/16 from the top of the table. This left about 1/8" gap under the fence. I can close the gap if I want to, by adjusting the plastic screws on the fence. These are the ones that rind on top of the square tube.

The holes I had to drill in the table were slightly lower than the stock holes.

[Jim A. Moore]

I've mounted a Delta T2 fence system to a older Craftsman contractor table saw.

I noticed yesterday that I can't adjust the angle of cut to 45 degrees. The motor mount is hitting the back rail. I can get to 42 degress...but no further.

Anyone else have this trouble? Suggestions to fix it? Grind out a slot in the back rail maybe?

Thanks,

Jim

[Josiah Bartlett]

The Bies and Shop fox clone of it have angle irons that go up close to being flush with the top, and have notches for the miter slots. The Delta T2 does not.

[Josh Satterlee]

I did the same thing as you- mid 60's C-man, sweet deal on the T-2. I ended up drilling new (slightly oversized) holes in the angle iron and using the provided hardware. No other choice... not enough real estate available. Once you do, it works great!

***SIDE GLOAT*** I negotiated with my local Lowes to sell me the T-2 for $65, brand new in box! OK... sorry to gloat.