Hand Planes - If you could choose just two.....

[Andrew Thuswaldner]

I am new to fine woodworking, own a variety of power tools but not one hand plane. Without getting into the details of what I want to build, if I were to buy my first two hand planes, what would you recommend? Let's say I buy them from Lee Valley since I live a few minutes away and from what I gather from SMC no one will be too harsh with me for shopping there.;)

thanks, Andrew

[John Cartledge]

The two planes I would probably look at would be either a 4 or 5 and Mr Stanley has some reasonable offers there along with the other makers. The second plane would be a low angle block from either LN or LV both are affordable and both are very well made. It really depends on what sort of work you are doing but the key is in the sharpening, and the warning is there are plenty of sharpening methods out there and planes are adictive and tend to multiply if you are not careful.

[Randy Klein]

Let's say I buy them from Lee Valley since I live a few minutes away

The question is irrelevant if you live that close to Lee Valley. You'll have to either buy none or buy all (eventually). But choosing not to go to LV when its only a few minutes away is impossible...:D

With that said, if you're question really is what 2 should I start with. Go with the Low angle jack and the low angle block.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Since you live near a LV, I'll use LV brands. I have the equivalent LN, but in most cases, function is pretty close, LN stays close to traditional designs and LV usually adds some neat innovations.

For only two: Lee Vally low angle jack plane and (probably) their "apron" block plane. If you want a little more in the block plane, go for their larger, adjustable mouth block plane. With any of these planes, you have the ability to change bevel angles to aid in planing tasks, and all will work right out of the box, although a bit of blade honing will help a great deal.

In retrospect for myself, when I made the initial migration from power to hand tools, if I could go back in time, these are the two planes I would like to use first: small block plane (either LN 102 or vintage Stanley 60-1/2 with Hock blade) and my shop workhorse (I'm going to hear about this one) my Stanley Sweetheart era #6, with SW blade and jointer fence. I'm a bit naked with this set-up, and really need to add a smoother, probably my Sweetheart era #4 or modern Clifton #3. But that's me, and these work for my size of work and species!

Tony Z.

[Mike Cutler]

Andrew

Yep. I gotta agree. A block and a Jack, #5 or the low angle type, are good to start with.

[Sam Yerardi]

Andrew,

I actually started years ago with a small no-name block plane. I used it mainly for chamfers as at the time I didn't know how to set up and use a plane. Then I found a Stanley #4. I leanred to set it up and there's been no looking back. To answer your question I would have to say you can do a tremendous amount of plane work with a Stanley #4, and a Stanley #5 for starters. My suggestion as far as starting with planes, I would focus first on learning to use planes to dimension lumber. Once you learn the above two planes you will discover that it would be nice to have a jointer or at least the next size up from a #5. Typically, people will go to a #7 or #8. Then I would progress to rabbet planes, shoulder planes, etc. I could go on all night....

[Danny Thompson]

Bevel Up Jack for sure, then the Medium Shoulder Plane or, if you prefer, adjustable mouth block.

[Andrew Thuswaldner]

Thanks to everyone for your input on my questions about hand planes. I think this forum is awesome. It's like having 1000+ woodworking buddies that you can ask questions, share successes with, etc.

Andrew

[Pat Haider]

I was in the same boat and my first two were a LN low angle jack (62) and an LN low angle adjustable mouth block (60-1/2). Both are incredibly versatile and well worth the investment.

[Michael Schwartz]

I would say a #8 and a low angle block plane. Then I would add to that a medium shoulder plane and a #5 jack.

[Chris Friesen]

Without getting into the details of what I want to build, if I were to buy my first two hand planes, what would you recommend?

It's pretty well impossible to recommend without knowing your style and what you want to build. Are you looking to "tune up" your joinery after using power tools? Then a shoulder and router plane would be good. If you're trying to replace a random-orbit-sander, then a smooth plane would work well. Are you looking to straighten out boards without a power jointer? Then you want a jointer plane. Chamfering edges and smaller pieces? Then a block plane is what you need.

For all-round use, I'd probably suggest a bevel-up jack and the adjustable mouth block plane. With some extra blades the jack can stand in for a jointer and smoother (though not as well as dedicated ones) and if you eventually get the other bevel up planes they can share blades. I just got the LV low-angle block plane for christmas, so I haven't used it much, but it feels sweet to the hand.

[gary Zimmel]

For me a low angle adjustable mouth block plane (60 1/2) and a #4 1/2 would be my choice for my first to planes.

Next in line would be a jointer (#7 or #8)

Be careful Andrew because I don't think anyone has been able to stop at JUST one or two......

[glenn bradley]

Since you site a number of tailed tools I will assume you are not a hard core Neanderthal. By that I mean you use a motorized planer and don't find the joy some do in hand planing a coffee table top.

My vote is LV's low angle block plane and a shoulder plane. You could sub LV's cool little bull nose but I lean toward the shoulder model. As you may have noticed, there will be some consistencies in recommendations but everyone works differently.

[Mark Roderick]

I'll second that: an adjustable-mouth low-angle block plane and the low-angle jack plane. Both fabulous and versatile tools.