Does the Milwaukee 5625 need a router lift?

[Jim Broestler]

I'm getting ready to build a router table and outfit it with a MW 5625 3 1/2 HP router. The question is, since the 5625 has an above-the-table adjustment feature already (which I'm not really familiar with in terms of how it works), would a separate router lift really be necessary? If not, I can save myself $200 and just get a mounting plate (rather than direct mount the router which would involve making and storing close-down boards to keep the bit hole a safe size). This router will be permanently dedicated to the table regardless of how it gets mounted.

To be more specific, does the included adjustment feature on the 5625 allow both bit changes and adjustment above the table, or just adjusments?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[scott spencer]

I've had my 5625 for a couple of years and have never used it in a lift. The threads for the built in adjuster and the above table height adjustment work fine for me. It may not have the superfine adjustment capability or the convenience of a lift, but it works. Honestly, if it weren't for reading about router lifts, it would never enter my mind...

Re: changing bits from above....It can be done if you take the insert out. The 5625 has two nuts and requires two wrenches for bit changes, so to access the 2nd nut you need to remove the insert and slip the wrench a tad below the table level. It's not what I'd consider cumbersome, but the system pales compared to the one handed above table bit changes on my Freud FT1700 (13 amp). AFAIK, the 5625 still has better above table features than most 15 amp routers....I think the FT3000 may have more, and the Triton may offers some too but am not certain.

HTH...

[Jim Broestler]

Re: changing bits from above....It can be done if you take the insert out. The 5625 has two nuts and requires two wrenches for bit changes, so to access the 2nd nut you need to remove the insert and slip the wrench a tad below the table level.
HTH...

So does that require reaching into the router compartment below the table, or is the other nut just a little lower than the top surface? If it's the second, does just removing the insert make accessing the nut with a wrench difficult?

Sorry if that seems kinda nit-picky, but I'm trying to visualize this in my head to get an idea if this is more trouble than I want or just a minor nuisance I can live with while saving a bunch of money.

[Eric Haycraft]

I don't think that the milwaukee (correct me if I am wrong) allows for bit changes above the table - only height adjustments which would get you in exactly the same position as a lift maybe less a hair of accuracy. The Triton and the Freud both have longer shafts and are designed to allow changes above table without ever having to reach below.
I would personally try it out before getting a lift. Chances are pretty good that you won't need/want a lift with one of these newer routers.

[Brad Schmid]

I agree with Scott. I have mine in a Woodpecker cast aluminum plate and also bought bent wrenches so above the table bit changes are easier. The only thing about this setup that is less "friendly" than a lift is the need to unlock the motor from below the table to adjust the height. Not a big deal for me...

[M. A. Espinoza]

As suggested, try it without a lift.

I've had the 5625 a couple years and never really thought a lift is necessary.

As far as bit changes, the router motor releases by unlocking the base and pushing the quick release button. Very quick and then you can change the bit while the motor is on the table.

Bending down to release the lock and adjust the bit really doesn't seem like a big issue. However I didn't learn on a table with a lift so it could be something I am just used to doing.

[scott spencer]

So does that require reaching into the router compartment below the table, or is the other nut just a little lower than the top surface? If it's the second, does just removing the insert make accessing the nut with a wrench difficult?

Sorry if that seems kinda nit-picky, but I'm trying to visualize this in my head to get an idea if this is more trouble than I want or just a minor nuisance I can live with while saving a bunch of money.

You can reach both nuts from above the table with the stock wrenches so you can change bits from above...the 2nd one is just slightly below the surface so you need enough room to reach the wrench in....the stock throat opening offers enough room, but small inserts don't. My FT1700 has an auto-collet lock, and the single nut protrudes fully above the table and allows single wrench above table changes...it's just a "bit" slicker than the MW. ;)

[Jim Broestler]

I agree with Scott. I have mine in a Woodpecker cast aluminum plate and also bought bent wrenches so above the table bit changes are easier. The only thing about this setup that is less "friendly" than a lift is the need to unlock the motor from below the table to adjust the height. Not a big deal for me...

Any idea where I can find those wrenches? I'm definitely going to get the 5625, and I was already checking out Woodpecker's stuff and that mounting plate you've got sounds like the one I was looking at. BTW, is the access hole for the height adjustment wrench pre-drilled in that plate or did you have to make one yourself?

[glenn bradley]

Any idea where I can find those wrenches? I'm definitely going to get the 5625, and I was already checking out Woodpecker's stuff and that mounting plate you've got sounds like the one I was looking at. BTW, is the access hole for the height adjustment wrench pre-drilled in that plate or did you have to make one yourself?

Although I find it easy enough to just drop the motor out the bottom on my 5625, I was once looking at these:

http://www.woodpeck.com/offsetwrenches.html

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/offsetwrenches.jpg

[Brad Schmid]

Any idea where I can find those wrenches? I'm definitely going to get the 5625, and I was already checking out Woodpecker's stuff and that mounting plate you've got sounds like the one I was looking at. BTW, is the access hole for the height adjustment wrench pre-drilled in that plate or did you have to make one yourself?

I got the bent wrench at woodpeckers as glenn shows above. If you buy the plate from woodpeckers that is specifically for the 5625, the height adjuster hole is already predrilled. Just a tip... when the plate is in the table, make sure it's oriented so that the height adjuster hole is not under the fence, otherwise you'll have to move the fence to do the height adjustment;)

[John Thompson]

I don't use a lift as it's not necessary with the 5625. I open the bottom door and lift the router up to the table, unlock the lock strap and change bits. Takes under a minute with those large nuts on the Milwaukee.

The simplest and strudiest router I have ever owned and that covers 5 brands.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=639051&postcount=4

Sarge..

[Adam Boyer]

I agree the lift is not necessary - it sure is nice. I have the Woodpecker PRL for mine and find it to be less fuss for height adjustments, bit changes, etc.

[Jim Broestler]

This has been some great info. Thanks everyone! On a related note, while reading through the reviews on Amazon, I noticed a few that mentioned two problems with the 5625:

1. A plastic part related to the height adjustment mechanism that stripped/broke. One guy said MW had corrected the design flaw, and the ones sold new now don't have this problem. Any truth to any of this?

2. An issue with the power switch failing due to sawdust clogging and interfering with the circuit. Is this also true, and what kind of dust collection considerations in a closed cabinet would solve it if is?

[scott spencer]

This has been some great info. Thanks everyone! On a related note, while reading through the reviews on Amazon, I noticed a few that mentioned two problems with the 5625:

1. A plastic part related to the height adjustment mechanism that stripped/broke. One guy said MW had corrected the design flaw, and the ones sold new now don't have this problem. Any truth to any of this?

2. An issue with the power switch failing due to sawdust clogging and interfering with the circuit. Is this also true, and what kind of dust collection considerations in a closed cabinet would solve it if is?

Neither of those issues has surfaced with my 5625....I'd guess its 2-3 years old.