Cutting 'threads' in acrylic

[Stephen Beckham]

Okay - here's a stretch for anyone interested (or maybe already tried).

Had some scrap 1/4" Black Acrylic that I was playing with today (black silhouette of a cowboy on a horse). A fella walked in and said he loved it and he'd buy a bunch if I could figure out how to get it on a trophy.

So putting off some projects that aren't due to next week, I went to work on it - I got a decent cross cut of a 1/4-20 bolt in Corel before I ran out of time.

Well, here's where I'd like to ask the Creekers - has anyone every threaded Extruded Acrylic? I know it'll be flat on two sides - but that's not an issue.

I've figured out two other approaches, but curious george has got the best of me right now as to if it could be done or not. I'm going to take my threading tool in tomorrow and give it a shot - but figured if one you guys/gals have already been down this bunny trail - I won't waste my time.

As far as work arounds - the easiest would be to cut bottom piece and fix it at a 90 degree like the sample picture attached. It would also give the piece a forward stance and could even be at an angle.

The second work around was to epoxy - well - that's not even worth talking about - it'll look to ghetto...

[Bill Cunningham]

I used to thread acrylic blocks with a 1/4 20 tap, to hold threaded studs for wing nuts to hold the main cover on u/w camera housings.. The blocks were glued around the sides of the housing with the studs going through even spaced holes in the lid. Just use a new 'taper start' tap (sharp) and go sloooow backing out often to clear the chips.. It holds a thread pretty good.. This was all extruded plexi tubes and sheet... Threading a rod with a 1/4-20 die should also work, providing you take your time..It will be brittle though..
I get a error when I try to look at the picture for some reason

“http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=80018&d=1201227564” cannot be displayed, because it contains errors.

[Bill Morrison]

I couldn't open the photo either.
Bill, what is a vulcanizer and a polymerplatemaker.
Excuse my lack of knowledge is such matters. I'm just a tired and retired nailbender.

Bill

[Steve knight]

plastic threads pretty well so does wood.
myself I like gun or spiral taps as they don't have to be backed out. put a little lube on the threads chuck in a cordless drill and go for it.

[James Jaragosky]

I use to thread a lot of different plastics in the 80’s. if you find that you need more holding power than just taping the plastic ( because you won’t get many threads in ¼ inch stock) you could use this product. I used this quite a bit and it works well.
Helical (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSea rch&originalValue=Threading+tools&L1=Helical)• Thread Insert Tools (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?L2=Thread+Insert+Tools&operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Threading+tools&L1=Helical)
This is the add from granger.
Good luck
Jim j.

[Rodne Gold]

Easiest is to put a tab on the bottom of the award and to cut a square block with a slot in it to hold the tab (slot can go diagonally) and glue the square onto a wood or marble block and use epoxy or any other good type glue to glue the standing piece into it.
Like this pic
http://www.tokerbros.co.za/final%20wae%20pics/acrylics/123-AWARD.jpg
or this one
http://www.tokerbros.co.za/final%20wae%20pics/acrylics/MEDSMALL%20AWARDS.jpg
or this one
http://www.tokerbros.co.za/final%20wae%20pics/custom/CHURCH%20AWARD.jpg

[Stephen Beckham]

Rodne,

Those are sharp... They seem to be easy to do as well...

I tried putting a new photo, but it's still not showing up. Here's a shot of the target - it has a 4" slot on the bottom that sits into the wood. (Before I get any cracks about the "T-Ball" label - the original customer that wanted this wanted a photo with some kind of plate on it to show what it would look like - the only one I had in size was a left over T-ball.)

It's funny what we can get out of 'scrap' pieces laying around when the creative juices are flowing.

Thanks everyone for ideas and thoughts on this project - as always, I appreciate the Creek and the Creekers....

[Mike Null]

Steve
Could you make the base and rout a dado across it then increase the base of the horse to fit. A little glue on the bottom is all it would take.

[Bill Cunningham]

I couldn't open the photo either.
Bill, what is a vulcanizer and a polymerplatemaker.
Excuse my lack of knowledge is such matters. I'm just a tired and retired nailbender.

Bill

A vulcanizer is a hydraulic heat press, used to heat and cure live rubber into a matrix (which is also formed by heat and a master in the vulcanizer) to form rubberstamps. 'Real' rubber is used for stamps that work with a solvent, acid or alcohol based ink.. A photopolymer platemaker uses ultraviolet light, timers, washout tank and dryer bay to create printing plates, or sheets of 'rubber like' polymer to be used for ordinary rubber stamps that would use water based ink.. It will also make hard polymer dies for hotstamping, or letterpress type printing presses.. Hard polymer plates have a metal backing, and can be painted and used for raised text logos/borders, etc. for award plaques. Very useful machines..