Veneering panels....edge options and order??

[Chris Yarish]

I am a bit perplexed about veneering a panel properly.

I have seen some people edgeband the substrate with a solid edge then veneer over the panel. The solid edge is much thicker then a veneer and allows for additional sizing and/or sanding without blowing through into the substrate.

Another way, obviously, is to simply edgeband with veneer-like banding.


My question...are there better ways?
Which of the two listed above are superior?
When using thin veneer edgebanding, is it better to do the edges first, then the surface in order to allow the face veneer to overlap (albeit insignificantly) over the edges for a more seamless look from the front?


Looking to put my Mark 6 to use here soon....

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, I think it depends upon the project...there is no one "best" way. I recently bought an edge bander from another SMC member in anticipation of using that method in some cases. But "thick veneer" solid edging prior to veneering is also a fine way to go if you are using non-paper backed veneers so the edge can disappear. Ultimately, you need to pick the method that does the best job of hiding the fact that it's veneered and that may even be on a component level for some project...you may use multiple methods, depending on the particular component you are addressing.

[John Huber]

I have collected antique furniture from the 1800s for 40 years. I have owned about 50 pieces and inspected over 1,000 pieces. My experience is that veneer that goes to the edge is likely to suffer chip-out from the inevitable bumps it will suffer over a long period of time. If a long-lasting, robust edge is your objective, it is better to have solid wood edging so that the veneer edge is set back from the edge of a component. When I use an flush trim bit on a router to make the edging flush to the venner, sometimes the bearing leaves a mark on the veneer or the edging is not perfectly smooth. So sanding the face after edging is an opportunity to remove these defects.

On the other hand, for more utility pieces, veneer edging works fine. Even then, sanding after edging is an opportunity to get a more perfect look.

In a nutshell, this advice is the same as Jim Becker's, just more explanation.

[Thom Sturgill]

Jim makes some good points.

If you have ever looked at the ads for some of those edge banding router bits, you may have seen where they cut away the substrate under the face veneer on factory veneered stock so that the thick edge banding only shows on the edge and you get a solid wood appearance and not a 'breadboard' appearance. Something to think about, but what matters most is what effect you want to create.

[Chris Yarish]

Excellent guys...I will opt for the solid, thicker edging then.

I also wonder though, with the porous nature of an MDF or baltic plywood, is there any edge prep involved to ensure the edgebanding (regardless of the thickness) adheres properly to the substrate?

[Dave Avery]

Excellent guys...I will opt for the solid, thicker edging then.

I also wonder though, with the porous nature of an MDF or baltic plywood, is there any edge prep involved to ensure the edgebanding (regardless of the thickness) adheres properly to the substrate?

Chris,

I haven't had any problems with edge banding holding on either MDF or plywood. The right amount of glue and good clamping pressure are all that's required. If you're using something exotic and oily for edge banding, it's a different story, however. Best. Dave.