Cast Iron Table Scratch Removal.

[alex grams]

removing scratches from cast iron tables (band saw table).

I was doing a cut on a stacked form for some laminate glue up, and one of the screws wasn't recessed fully and put a decent scratch across my band saw table. I put some 00 steel wool under a vibrating sander to buff out any burrs or such, and then rewaxed the table (as per my rust prevention regiment).

Are there any ways to more fully remove scratches? I know it really won't affect any work I do, and it is barely noticeable to the touch when rubbing a finger over it, but it looks pretty ugly and i like shiny clean tools.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I did the same thing to my PM2000 top a few months ago. :(

Could live with it but like you, I like my tools shiny so I'll be awaiting a response.

[Paul Simmel]

Scratch it on the other side to balance it out a little?

[Sean Kinn]

I know it hurts....I've been there and done that. I love to see that perfectly flat pristine cast iron surface as well. But, sometimes we just have to cut the cord and relax. Afterall, it is a tool. I've conditioned myself to think of them as badges of honor that prove I do actually use my tools. If you take too many efforts to remove the scratch (sounds like it is at least a little deep) you may create a low spot on the table. This would likely be an incredibly tiny low spot, but you would then have a low spot to stress about instead of a scratch. Like many things in life, the first one is the worst. Just get cracking on your next project and cover it with some sawdust.

[Eric Haycraft]

The only way that I know of if to have it reground. That will make it perfect again and won't create low spots. But, if I had all of my surfaces reground every time that I scratched them I doubt that there would be any table left.

[Larry Fox]

What about some 400 sandpaper under a block. Few swipes should do it and you likely won't be able to feel it. You will see it, but you won't fell it and it won't affect the operation. I had a single bead of sweat drop onto the top of my Uni and it sat there for a while before I wiped it off and pitted it a bit - 400 took care of it.

[Brian Ross]

Some consider them beauty marks.

[Steven Beam]

At work we use a product called belzona to repair shafts on our paver. It is sort of like epoxy but is very hard and polishes smooth here the link

www.belzona.com (http://www.belzona.com)

Hope this helps

[Jason Beam]

Count them. You WILL have more, for sure. When you lose count, then grab some 600 grit wet-dry and just scuff most of the worst ones out. Nothing stays new forever. :)

Side note - Two Beam's??? What are the odds???

[glenn bradley]

Anything cutting deep enough to remove a scratch as you describe had better be in a machine shop. Trying to sand or grind that thing out is like sanding out a deep scratch in anything else; the whole surface goes down or it goes uneven. I'll take a "looks-only" blemish over uneven tables any day ;-)

[Jim Becker]

The only way that I know of if to have it reground.

Bingo! Consider it "patina"...;)

[Jim Heffner]

I'm not saying this is the best answer here...but some 220 and then 400 grit sandpaper in your ros along with wd-40 does a lot of good in my opinion. Just keep the table top well lubricated, with the wd-40 and keep
the ros moving around a good bit, will make a dirty slurry on the top but will clean off pretty easily when done.

[Jerel Hill]

When overhauling turbine generators, we use a long hone with oil on all flat mating surfaces (bearing housings, casings, ect.). This will not cover up a blemish, but it will hone any raised area on the surface completely flat and make it useable.

[Jeff Miller]

If you take that table to a machine shop to get it machined every time you get a scratch in it,pretty soon there won't be anything left of it.

I like shiny too and try to keep my tools that way but chit happens,at least you're using your tools.

I would use a ROS as others have suggested ,just do it and get on with the sawdust making:D


Jeff;)

[Joe Chritz]

Surface grinder is about all that will work.

Be thankful you weren't in a hurry and didn't support a quick cut off with a circular saw. You can guess where that is going. :rolleyes: Carbide saw blades will cut a cast iron top in case anyone is interested.

A flat block with some 400 will polish it enough so the scratch will just be a reminder and won't cause any problems.

Joe

[Pete Bradley]

I was doing a cut on a stacked form for some laminate glue up, and one of the screws wasn't recessed fully and put a decent scratch across my band saw table.



Well, that's a start, but it can take as long as 60 years to fully develop a good patina:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ebradlzz/table.JPG
Don't sweat it. It's evidence that you've got a woodworking shop, not just a bunch of machines.

Pete

[john bateman]

Really. After a couple hundred more you won't even notice the first one anymore.

[David G Baker]

Remember the first scratch that showed up on your new car? Ya gotta get over it because it won't be the last.

[alex grams]

bleh true.. I should have just scratched it intentionally when i got it so that i could get over it =/

[Mike Goetzke]

When I got my first TS with a CI top I had fits - I swore someone was putting sandpaper under my wood. Over time the marks blend together and it's not as noticable.

One thing that does help at least cosmetically is to give your table top a treatment as itf it were new. I start with WD40 and gray ScotchBrite on my 1/4 sheet finish sander. It basically takes off the rough edges. Then rust protect it and apply paste wax.

Mike

[Steven Beam]

My brother is Jason

[Bruce Page]

Alex, of course it depends on how deep the scratch is but you can remove or hide a lot of scratches with grey scotch-brite and a hook & loop ROS. Just work the ROS over the table uniformly and you won’t damage it.