How to sharpen a "spindlemaster" or "spindlemaker"?

[David Walser]

I'm asking, because I don't know. Sorby, Hamlet, and others make a tool that is a cross between a skew and a spindle gouge, allowing you to make most of the cuts with one tool that you could make with a skew and spindle gouge. (The advantage over a skew is that it is more user friendly.) The tool is flat on top and rounded (but not half-round) on the bottom.

Anyway, I have one and it needs sharpening but I've no idea how to sharpen it. Anyone have any (useful) suggestions? Sorby says you should never need to grind the bevel, just hone the flat top with a diamond file. Oops, too late in that not grinding thing.

Here's a link to CSUSA's page describing the Hamlet version of the tool:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Bowl_and_Spindle_Tools___Hamlet___ Hamlet_M2_Sorensen_Spindlemaker___m2_sorensen?Args =

[Ben Richardson]

I have the Sorby version and just use a flat stone to sharpen it.

[Jim Becker]

What Ben said...sharpen/hone the top the same way you would the small cutters used on hollowing tools. Avoid the edges on the underside of the tool.

[Bill Bolen]

I had one, but finalllllly learned to use my skew. I always just used a flat diamond hone (flat file) from WC across the entire top at the edge. Brought it right back to "razor" every time....Bill....

[Scott Hubl]

Same here, I have the Robert Sorby one and you just run a diamond file flat over the top.

[David Walser]

I know that you are supposed to use a diamond file to hone the flat part of the tol. At least I know that NOW! I did not know that when I tried -- unsuccessfully -- to sharpen the tool by grinding the bevel. :( (My tool did not come with any sharpening instructions. :mad:)

Yes, I know I can just "learn how to use a skew". I actually like using my skew, but I want the spindlemaster for my wife. She's making noises of taking up turning again and will expect HER spindlemaster to be available.


Any idea how I can save this tool? (Short of buying a new one and making a substitution.)

[Denis Renihan]

David,

Go to the Sorby site. Look at the videos. Also check out the instructions in PDF format.

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/movie-clips.htm

Spindlemaster. Introduction and use. You'll need Windows media format to view. They also supply a PDF. See Item 9 Sharpening. shows how to sharpen on a flat stone. Study the bevel shape and see if you can get your bevel to look like the picture. Flatten the top. Always sharpen just by flattening the top of the tool. Good luck

[Bob Way]

David, I recall reading somewhere in the Sorby materials that if the bevel needed to be reground, in the case of damage to it or some other factor, that it would need to be polished as it was originally then honed or sharpened on the top flat edge. Wish I could point you to where I read that, but can't put my finger on it at the moment.

[Tom Sherman]

David I have two spindlemaster wanna be's from PSI have never had much luck just honing the flat edge. My wife uses these quite frequently so I have resorted to sharpening them with the wolverine system just like my spindle gouges be careful to match the bevel and have at it. My wife likes them very much, so I had to come up with something. Seems that the flats on the ones that I have are rippled some, I have recently taken them to a flat stone to try to flatten them properly we'll see what if any improvement that makes.

[David Walser]

I appreciate the useful suggestions.

[Burt Alcantara]

The idea of the polished surface is to leave a burnished finish. If the tool is used correctly, no sanding is necessary.

I don't know how you'd get that polished surface back.

Burt

[John Taylor]

HI

Sorby offer a regrind system for the spindle master although not sure how the postage would work out. You could try emailing them sales@robert-sorby.co.uk (sales@robert-sorby.co.uk)


john

[David Walser]

Years ago, a few days after I posted the original question on how to sharpen a spindlemaster, I learned the answer. I posted that answer in response to another Creeker's question. Today, I needed the answer and could not find where I had written it down. (So much for reorganizing my shop!) A search of the forum brought up this thread. Since it doesn't include the answer, I'm posting it below:

If you have access to a Tormek slow speed grinder and Tormek's Gouge Jig (SVD-185), you place the Spindlemaster in the jig with a 3" protrusion and a jig setting of 1. Then, using the "marker method" match the bevel angle and grind away. Regrade the stone to 1000 grit and lightly grind to remove the scratches left from the 220 grit grinding, then hone the edge on the leather wheel to produce a mirror finish like the one that came from the factory. As a final step, hone the flat top of the tool to remove any burr left by sharpening the bevel.

You could reproduce the bevel angle with a Wolverine jig (using the Vari-grind holder) or the Tru-grind jig. However, even with a slow speed grinder and a 120 grit wheel, you'll spend a lot of time with emory cloth hand polishing the bevel if you hope to reproduce the mirror finish that came from the factory. (I'm not sure a mirror finish is important. If it is, the Tormek seems like the better option.)

Hope this helps.

[Mark Levitski]

I don't own one of these tools but I have seen them in use and to me it's just a fluteless spindle gouge. If you need to sharpen by way of the bevel, just do as you would with any gouge. If you use a jig, match the factory bevel with your particular sharpening system. It seems to me that if you continue to hone the flat top there would be some rounding over or geometry change eventually and the bevel would have to be redressed.

Dunno, just some comments from a distance.

[Jamie Donaldson]

These Spindlemaster type tools are a useless waste of steel, not even suited to opening a paint can like you can with a skew!

[Harry Robinette]

Sorby will redo the factory grind and polish for you if you send the tool to them.Send them a email and they'll let you know how to do it. Worked for me, Gave mine to the sorby rep when he was at Woodcraft. He told us to do the email thing.

[Aric Krueger]

I have one of these and never use it. I do much better with a skew. One option to "save" the tool that I haven't seen mentioned yet; grind the damaged spindlemaster into something useful such as a skew or scraper, then buy your wife a new spindlemaster to keep the peace. ...just a suggestion :)

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have one too, and never was able to use it as effectively as that guy in the Sorby Video. I must admit, that that video sold me.

I have not figured what to re-grind it into... I did use it as a weeder in the yard once, just after flinging it in the yard after a spectacular spiral grab on "the last cut"...... It does really well as a weeder. Something to think about. Kinda pricey though.

[David Walser]

For Tormek users, the new and improved formula is as follows:


JS (jig setting) = 1
P (protrusion) = 75mm (a/k/a 3")
Hole (to set the distance of the tool support bar from the sharpening wheel) = A

Using this formula will produce a tool shape that's virtually identical to the one that comes from Hamlet on its spindlemaker.

I know that many of you don't like this type of tool. This is just information for those who want to sharpen one.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

This would produce a hollow grind, and make the tool even grabbier? I already find it hard to keep control of this thing.

After my post, I did go and sharpen the Spindlemaster and tried using it again. I also touched up the bevel and honed it on my Tormek. Works better, but still does not produce that glass smooth finish that the video shows. I am thinking that speed must be the key, but it's pretty hard to turn a big vessel at teh speed that I'm thinking will generate that smooth finish.

Oh yeah, thanks for the sharpening info David. I may give it a try.

[mark ravensdale]

Like the other posters have said, use a diamond file/hone on the flat top side, though I did find using a rougher grit file seemed to work better than a fine one, I got myself one but to be honest I found it pretty much rubbish in use, it kind of works on some softwoods but for anything else I would recommend plenty of practice with a proper skew, Infact if I could go back I would have rather spent the money on a skew video to help learn how to use a proper skew (there are several videos on the skew out there!)
But hey, ya live and learn, right!!!:)

[Reed Gray]

There is the 'Sorby Spindle Master' and then there are a number of other tools like the Hamlet one show, the Thompson 'fluteless' gouge, the bowl skew, the skewchigouge, Tracy Owens finish tool, and probably some others. The Spindle Master is the only one that sharpens by honing the top of the tool. I never liked it, just too flimsy. The difference here is the long bevel (30 degrees or so) compared to the steeper bevels of the others, from the Thompson at around 60 degrees, and the Hamlet one looks to be very similar. Excellent tools for the transition area on the inside of a bowl and for going across the bottom, using the lower 1/3 of the blade when cutting, just like a skew. Excellent for very high angle shear cuts where you can hold the handle fairly level, rather than dropping it way down. Also excellent for coves and beads on spindle work. Note here, you can sharpen to a spindle detail gouge profile, or leave a nose like this ). These are sharpened on the bevel, just like most other turning tools. I do not consider them to be good for long straight cuts on spindles, where the longer bevel angle gives you a flat spot for 'feeling' the flat, like a short soled hand plane, which makes them fine for flat, and long convex shapes, but not so good for concave/cove shapes.

robo hippy

robo hippy.

[Ted Calver]

Reed...sent you a PM a few days ago. Check your mail:)

[Reed Gray]

Ted,
PM'd you back. I was out of town for a week.

robo hippy