Table Saw vibration...

[Brian Fulkerson]

Can anyone provide help around ways to minimize or even eliminate table saw vibration. Can you set the saw on a vibration absorbing material? Any special tricks? I have heard some people talk about balancing not just a nickel, but also a penny without it falling over while it starts, runs, and stops. Is this myth or factual??

I am planning on building a stand for my saw to both raise it up slightly and provide storage space underneath the extension table. Things to consider??

Any help would be great. Please share your Ideas and pictures of setup.

Thanks,

Brian

[Jason King]

There are many ways to reduce vibration in a table saw. the following list is not exhaustive, and I'm sure others have more, and better ideas.

1. Replace your current pulleys with machined pulleys. stamped aluminum pulleys are rarely round, and the machined pulleys will eliminate the vibration caused by stamped pulleys.

2. Link belt

3. Add weight. concrete block, sandbags, etc.

remember, a saw vibrates for a reason. Find the reason and fix it. Each saw may have a different reason for vibrating, but I have yet to see a vibration that could not be fixed.

[Jim Becker]

Make sure the pulleys are aligned with each other. Consider switching to a link belt. Be sure all the legs are the same length.

[Tom Veatch]

Vibration absorbing material might reduce transmission of the vibration to the floor, but wouldn't do anything to reduce vibration of the saw itself. If anything, depending on the coupling of the saw to the floor, it could actually allow the amplitude of the saw's vibration to increase.

Without knowing where or what imbalance is causing the vibration, it's hard to offer a solution with any confidence. I've heard reports that replacing standard V-belts with link belts such as these (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30051&cat=1,240,41067) has reduced/eliminated vibration. I've never used them so cannot testify to their effectiveness.

Never tried the "penny test", but my JTS10-XL cabinet saw passes the "nickel test".

[Ken Shoemaker]

Brian,
I have a two year old Delta contractor saw. I saw various threads about vibration and went with the link belt. I tried the LB first thinking I would start small and work my way up thru the machined pulleys. I saved money by stopping at the link belt. My saw went from slightly less than an out of balance washing machine to being able to stand an 1/8" drill bit on end, start and stop the saw, all with the saw setting on a mobil base.

My advise; Try the link belt first, then see if you need the pulleys.. Spend your money on something else than pulleys if it works as well as it did for me.

Best of luck..... Ken

[Brian Fulkerson]

My saw comes with a "Poly V Belt" that rides in grooves on the pulleys. What are my options with this set up??!?

[Ken Shoemaker]

I once heard the simple automotive segmented V-belts will work as well. Because they are segmented, they don't hold the same memory as a solid belt. You should be able to fide the proper size with no problems.

[Brian Fulkerson]

Also, could vibration be contributed to the saw sitting on a concrete floor??

[keith ouellette]

Brian,
I have a two year old Delta contractor saw. I saw various threads about vibration and went with the link belt. I tried the LB first thinking I would start small and work my way up thru the machined pulleys. I saved money by stopping at the link belt. My saw went from slightly less than an out of balance washing machine to being able to stand an 1/8" drill bit on end, start and stop the saw, all with the saw setting on a mobil base.

My advise; Try the link belt first, then see if you need the pulleys.. Spend your money on something else than pulleys if it works as well as it did for me.

Best of luck..... Ken

I don't have a lot of vibration on my saw but in light of what Ken has said i am going to try a link belt on my saw and jointer. I am still waiting to see how many people can start their saw with a penny standing on edge. I can do it but thats only because I have welded a penny standing on edge to my table for luck. (In case nobody can tell I am joking and mean no disrespect to those of you who have such well balanced saws. I haven't tried the penny test.

[keith ouellette]

I don't have a lot of vibration on my saw but in light of what Ken has said i am going to try a link belt on my saw and jointer. I am still waiting to see how many people can start their saw with a penny standing on edge. I can do it but thats only because I have welded a penny standing on edge to my table for luck. (In case nobody can tell I am joking and mean no disrespect to those of you who have such well balanced saws. I haven't tried the penny test.

I take back what I said about the penny test. (I should try before I type)
I just did it and it worked. It stayed up when I turned the saw on and when I shut it down while it was on the main table. Air from the blade knocks it over if it is directly behind the blade. I didn't think it would work but it did.

[glenn bradley]

My saw comes with a "Poly V Belt" that rides in grooves on the pulleys. What are my options with this set up??!?

What model saw is it? Your poly-v should be running smoothly already. Mine does (22124). Is the vibration present if you remove your nut, washers and blade? Other more targeted recommendations would be easier if we knew what type of saw we are trying to help on.

[Chase Gregory]

Do you have a Ridgid TS? I know it has the Poly V - since I have one.

Even a Poly V has memory if your shop gets really cold. Mine has had a lot more vibration in the cooler weather. In warm weather it's notably smoother.

Also, IF you have the Ridgid, the mobile base can be a contributor since the mechanism itself can hold a leg free of the floor if one of the casters is binding. I fiddled w/ my casters a good bit to make sure they weren't binding, then put an 80lb sack of concrete on a board across the leg braces.

Chaser

PS - disregard...I hadn't 'refreshed' my screen in a while...I'll go back to my dirt barn now...

[Shawn Green]

What model saw is it? Your poly-v should be running smoothly already. Mine does (22124). Is the vibration present if you remove your nut, washers and blade? Other more targeted recommendations would be easier if we knew what type of saw we are trying to help on.

Steel City uses the same belt/pulleys. My saw starts up and runs smooth, but vibrates on shut down. The belt wasn't all the way on one of the pulleys, moved it over and made it a little smoother.

[Brian Fulkerson]

The saw is a brand new Jet Deluxe Xacta 5HP. They have the new Poly V belt thet supposidly is designed to reduce vibration. I tried loosening the bolts on the motor to hopefully put more tension on the belt. It sounds like the belt is slipping on the pulleys. Jet says that the weight of the motor should be more than enough tension to avoid slipage. The tourque from the motor is slipping when startup happens. They are sending me a new belt and I should have it in a cuople of days.

Because I have not previously had a "real" cabinet saw before, how much vibration is normal?? What is considered to be excessive??

[Rod Sheridan]

Although some v belts may cause vibration, there are many saws with V belts, and very little vibration.

As previously stated check or replace the pulleys, make sure keys are seated in keyways, set screws are tight, motor mounts have no play etc.

My 650 has two V belts, and passes the coin test with ease........Rod.

[Greg Funk]

Because I have not previously had a "real" cabinet saw before, how much vibration is normal?? What is considered to be excessive??
My 3HP Unisaw has no problem with the penny test. Does your saw still vibrate if you disconnect the belts and run just the motor?

Greg

[scott spencer]

...Because I have not previously had a "real" cabinet saw before, how much vibration is normal?? What is considered to be excessive??

A saw of that caliber and size should vibrate very little. You might expect a slight jolt at start and some possible shimmy as the motor slows down after shutoff, but during normal operation it should be barely noticeable.

How's the arbor runout? Have you tried switching blades? Does the saw vibrate with no blade installed? Does it still vibrate with the belt removed? These are all things that could help isolate the cause if the new belt doesn't cure it. Good luck...

[Brian Fulkerson]

Durring my lunch, I used a bar to apply more downward pressure on the motor to tighten the belt. Sure enough, the belt got enough tension and all the issues went away!! Seems that the weight of the motor doesn't always apply enough tension. The saw runs great. It does have a little kick at start-up and I contribute that to the large motor. However, the belt is no longer slipping (Good News!!).

So far so Good. I am very happy with the saw!!

Brian