Bandsaw blade tensioning

[John Piwaron]

I've seen the instructions for tensioning a Timberwolf blade that involves the visual observation of flutter. In fact, I've got two TW blades, one's a 1/4 inch, one's a 1/2 inch. Well, I'm not that good at that. In fact, I'd be hardpressed to say I see the kind of blade motion the instructions describe. There doesn't (to me) look like a clearly defined moment the blade is "fluttering" more or less than any other moment. So, I'm thinking about a gauge to directly read the amount of tension.

Has anyone here gone that route? I've read that the scale on the back of the saw (14" Delta) isn't very accurate, but for now that's all I got. I've had that saw for about a year.

I know this is another of those skills some or most acquire, like sharpening. But just like sharpening one can buy a Tormek (Yeah, I've read Steve Knight's take on the Tormek) with some jigs and make your sharpening woes go away. So it looks like a guage to directly read tension would cut to the chase, albeit at a cost.

What sort of tension values are we looking at? And are those values the same for all blades of a particular size? (1/4", 1/2", ect.)

[Joe Suelter]

Good question John, it would be easier, I'm hoping someone will answer. I have the exact blades and saw you do, it's a pain.

[jerry cousins]

hey john - went through all those dances you mentioned and finally did buy a tension gauge. the index on saws is pretty worthless.
i use the gauge to set the tension to 27k psi - it provides a consistency that allows for truer resawing (which is what i do mostly with the bs). when i change blades, tension it, set the drift i know that the setting will be stay good for that blade.

check with iturra design for information on gauges and bs's in general.

jerry

[John Shuk]

My friend had a slight problem with T/W blades not matching the "flutter" test. He called Suffolf Machinery and they were fast and eager to help. He said that they had the answer on the tips of their tongues. He was running the saw too slow. He has a Delta 18 2 speed and Suffolk suggested he set it at the top speed and leave it there. I bet they could help you. Good Luck.
John

[Steven Wilson]

According to the folks at Suffolk the tension is somewhat dependant on blade length and width. They suggested values of 6000-9000 psi for the 168" long 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" wide blades that I use from them. Performing the flutter test on my saw and then measuring the resulting tension I found that the blades were tensioned properly closer to 9000psi than 6000psi. I'm keeping track of tension because I have a theory that blade wear and tension are related. I believe that as the blade dulls it will require more tension to make a satisfactory cut. I have a journal I'm keeping to record the data. We'll see what pans out once I've worn out a few blades. As a reference I tension my Lennox carbide to 20000psi.

[Allan Johanson]

Thanks for posting those numbers, Steven. They jive with what I've heard over the years about Timberwolf blades (and the equivalent Tuff Tooth in Canada). These are "low tension" blades and don't need to be cranked to ultra high psi levels like some other blades.

Thanks,

Allan

[Byron Trantham]

hey john - went through all those dances you mentioned and finally did buy a tension gauge. the index on saws is pretty worthless.
i use the gauge to set the tension to 27k psi - it provides a consistency that allows for truer resawing (which is what i do mostly with the bs). when i change blades, tension it, set the drift i know that the setting will be stay good for that blade.

check with iturra design for information on gauges and bs's in general.

jerry

Jeryy, how do I contact Iturra? I did a Google search and didn't locate them. I would be interested in the tensioning jig. thanks.

[jerry cousins]

Jeryy, how do I contact Iturra? I did a Google search and didn't locate them. I would be interested in the tensioning jig. thanks.

hey byron - iturra does not have a web page -
try calling 1 888 722 7078 -- they're in florida.
also ask for the catalog - it's a grest reference for bs stuff and data.

jerry

[Hal Flynt]

FWIW

I had the opportunity to talk with one of the nice folks at PS Wood?? (I don't remember their full name just now) about the Timberwolf tightening at the Atlanta WW Show last month.

I commented that I noticed that if I started off real loose, I could start with flutter and it would go away as I tightened, then come back as I tightened a little more and go away again with more tension. He was quick to tell me to stop at the first "flutter stop". The second flutter was a second harmonic and too tight. It really doesn’t need much tension. I have made very successful cuts from too loose to moderately tight, then saw more wander with more tension.