Difference between a riving knife and a splitter?

[keith micinski]

What are the exact difference's. Why don't more people cut their splitter with a built in guard so that you still maintain anti kickback teeth and the splitter but then you can do whatever you want with a blade guard?

[keith micinski]

I just looked at the Biesemeyer splitter for a delta and it looks exactly like what my guard would look like if I cut it off just above where the kickback teeth are. What am I missing that I should pay 150 dollars for that?

[Steven Wilson]

A splitter is a device installed at the rear of a saw blade to keep the saw kerf open and may, depending on design or position, help keep wood from contacting the back teeth of a circular saw blade. A splitter can be a fixed piece like you see some people placing in their zero clearance inserts or attached to the saw trunion so that it tilts with the blade (your typical American cabinet saw guard).

A riving knife is similar to a splitter in that it's installed at the rear of a saw blade and attached to the saw trunion but has a few very important differences. First, the riving knife not only tilts with the blade but moves up and down with the blade. Since the position of the riving knife is fixed with respect to the blade the riving knife can be made to follow the curvature of the back of the saw blade. This allows the riving knife to be set very close to the back of the blade. Being this close effectively prevents wood from contacting the rear saw teeth which results in a kickback. Often a riving knife will have provisions for attaching a blade guard/dust hood over the blade or will be set so that it can be used for through cuts.

The anti-kickback pawls you mention are a different animal and are seen on US saws with splitters. I find those to be more problematic than helpful and removed them from the splitter/guard that came with my old PM66 as well as the Beis splitter that I use to use. The saw I use now has a riving knife and it's a much better piece of kit, both in use to keep saw kerfs open, DC capability, as well as it's anti-kickback properties (follows the back of the saw blade closely).

[Greg Peterson]

Riving knife sits right behind the blade and is slightly lower than the top of the blade.

No matter what angle or height the blade is set at, the riving knifes orientation to the blade does not change. Unlike a splitter, the riving knife does not have to be remove in order to make a non-through cut (dado, rabbet).


I'd pay $150 more for a TS that had a riving knife over a splitter. Just the convenience. Seems like the splitter and the pawls are always getting in the way.

[Brad Naylor]

Of course, over here in Europe things are slightly different.

All table saws have had to be fitted with riving knives for the last forty years or so. Generally the riving knife comes up above the level of the blade and is fitted with a guard.

This arrangement makes the use of the table saw for cutting dadoes, tenons, etc impossible as it would require the removal of the riving knife and guard.

'Splitters' as you have, are unknown.

[Tim Marks]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70761&highlight=riving+splitter

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71818&highlight=riving+splitter

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67546&highlight=riving+splitter

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=72420&highlight=riving+splitter

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69218&highlight=riving+splitter

[keith micinski]

If a riving knife raises and lowers with the blade how can you do a non through cut. You would have to be able to control the height of the riving knife separate from the height of the blade. I guess I just am not seeing the advantage of a riving knife because on a non threw cut you have to mess around with lowering the knife as opposed to taking one bolt out. For a couple of hundred bucks I don't see how it can be that much better then a properly aligned splitter.

[Curt Harms]

If a riving knife raises and lowers with the blade how can you do a non through cut. You would have to be able to control the height of the riving knife separate from the height of the blade.
You don't control the height of the riving knife independently from the blade, they move together. If the top of the riving knife is below the top of the blade to start, it will stay below the top of the blade. Does the blade maintain 1/4" or less clearance on a splitter regardless of the blade height? The riving knife does. A riving knife that has a guard attached cannot be left in place for non-through cuts. Not all riving knives have guards attached although some do. Also, bear in mind that saws with riving knives don't have blades that move in an arc like unisaws and their clones, they move straight up and down.

HTH

Curt

[Fred Craven]

The difference?

Well, Riving Knife has three syllables whereas Splitter only has two. Riving Knife sounds cooler, more European, more advanced, and Splitter sounds more after market, and American.

When I got my Inca 2200 :D it may have been the only non-slider table saw with a riving knife, but I always called it a splitter. In those days there were two predominant forms of guards on a table saw: the "OSHA" guard, and The-OSHA-Guard-removed. The OSHA guard inevitably sucked. (I think the INCA OSHA guard, actually retained the riving knife in spite of the big contraption around the blade, but I got the funny hat.)

Although I understand where the anti-kickback-paws came from, I never liked them on any saw. To me they almost always got in the way and created a safety hazard of their own.

It seems that in a marketing effort to differentiate the old OSHA style splitter (with or without Paws) from the superior splitter that raises and lowers with the blade, the term Riving Knife has taken greater prominence.

Whatever we call it, it certainly is a great safety device. Funny thing, a riving knife can even be left installed while making...a TV show...without obscuring the blade while taping. I'm sure one day this fact will work its way onto some TV show.

[John Newell]

One thing about a riving knife, though - if the knife is, say, .125", you're going to have trouble with blade that has a kerf <.125".

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Keith

A real riving knife is connected to the arbor with a linkage and by that moves up/down and tilts with the blade without changing it's orientation to the blade.

The riving knife can be adjusted to be above or below the blade (2nd pic)...usually, it is adjusted to sit 1/8" below the blade so it does not interfere with non-through cuts but it can be lowered for use with dado blade.

The original American stile riving knife must be higher that the blade to accommodate the "Anti-kickback pawls" that are mandatory by OSHA and the makers must make it like that and that's the reason that they offer "after market" or different riving knife with out the "Pawls"that looks like the European one.

On the pic, you can see "European" riving knife...no "kickback pawls"...
Maybe you can notice that it's a little bit lower than the blade and it will keep this position through all the up/down range of the blade.

niki

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/Rivingknife.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/Dsc00008.jpg

[Vic Damone]

I'm unclear as to the actual definition of a riving knife. Does anybody know how the upcoming mandate defines a riving knife?

I assume that:

A riving knifes leading edge is beveled growing to approximately the thickness of the blade?

Its position is in close proximity to the blade and raises, lowers, and tilts with the blade?

It doesn't extend higher than the blade and remains in place when doing rabbit and dado type cuts?

It's generally found on a saw who's trunion raises and lowers horizontally as opposed to a pivoting trunion?

Any devise that is significantly narrower than the blade and is used to mount kick back pawls or a blade guard is a, "Mounting Bracket".

A mounting bracket that is approximately the same thickness as the blade is a, "Splitter"?

A devise that is attached to the table insert that is the same thickness as the blade is a, "Splitter"?

A mounting bracket/splitter that moves with the blade would be an, "Articulating Splitter". An articulating splitter can be interchangeable with a riving knife since both mount on the trunion in the same location and in the same fashion?

Vic

[John Thompson]

A riving knife may be lower or it may be taller than the blade.. it depends on who designed it and what machine. I have seen them both ways on various machines.

As mentioned.. on most saws including Euro the riving knife has to be dis-mounted to do a non through cut if it is taller than the blade.. or may have to even if it sits below the blade if you do a deeper cut than the distance the knife is below the blade.

The one mentioned here by Nissim that moves on it's own.. I was not aware of. Great idea to keep from moving, but you still have to loosen the bolt to lower. Both a rivng knife and spiltter could have a Crown guard or a piece atttached to the top to counter wood being launched straight up.

A riving knife or splitter will not stop that upward launch on their own. They are both for keeping the wood separarted after sever and touching the back of the dangerous rear rising teeth. So.. a riving knife or splitter alone will aid with kick-back but.. are not the "Holy Grail" in one package as kick-back can occur other ways.

You need two knifes or splitters if you use both full kerf and thin kerf blades. Common sense tells you that you cannot get a 087 sever past a .125 kerf. If you use a thinner knife or splitter.. you could use it both ways.. but you have not separated the stock as efficiently as you would if using either that is just a few .000 under the width of blade.

You can take the stock pawls and plastic thing off of a splitter and add a crown guard on your own. You can cut slots in the current splitter and add a crown attaching with T bolts to move the crown up and down in approximation with the distance to blade.

But.. what you cannot do is make a stock splitter ride up and down with the crank of the height adjuster.. or make it tilt with the turn of that handle as you can with a riving knife that is designed to do that. It's not the same gut set-up on a stock U.S. saw that is not designed to take the riiving knife.

Open the link below if you want to see a stock splitter with a home-made crown guard and home dust shield made basically from stocki and scrap. Cheap and efficient...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=647087&postcount=12

Sarge..

[Joe Spear]

Most European table saws aren't designed to do non-through cuts, therefore removing the riving knife for a non-through cut is a moot point. Often the arbor fastener is a bolt that screws into the arbor shaft instead of a nut that screws on. And the arbors are usually shorter than those of the American-style saws and won't even accommodate a dado set. I think that doing dados on a tablesaw is illegal (or otherwise not permitted) in many European countries. There are exceptions, though. I think Rojek saws may be one brand that you can mount a dado set on.

It's true that if the riving knife rides only a bit below the top of the blade, any non-through cut would be limited in depth to that little bit of height difference unless you removed the riving knife. One value of the riving knife vs. the regular splitter is that if a board isn't very thick, the knife is positioned to enter the kerf very close to the blade, no matter how high the blade is raised.

A splitter, on the other hand, has to be set back far enough from the blade slot so that the blade doesn't hit it when it is raised high. That means for boards that aren't very thick, the blade may be raised only an inch or so and the board has to travel a bit to get to the splitter. If the wood has unusual stresses and the kerf closes up on the blade before the board reaches the splitter, you could get kick-back.

[Bruce Benjamin]

But.. what you cannot do is make a stock splitter ride up and down with the crank of the height adjuster.. or make it tilt with the turn of that handle as you can with a riving knife that is designed to do that. It's not the same gut set-up on a stock U.S. saw that is not designed to take the riiving knife.

Sarge..

Sure they do. My General International 50-185 saw has the stock splitter/guard and it tilts with the blade. It obviously doesn't raise and lower with the blade but you're wrong about the tilting part. I'm sure mine isn't the only one to do this but I don't remember what other brands also do anymore.

Bruce

[Dewayne Garrett]

Curious if one of these could be retrofitted to an older model saw? I'd think so but finding correct model to try and modify may be difficult. My old Craftsman with no model number on it http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2598 (http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2598)


May try and contact one of the sites to see.

[John Thompson]

Sure they do. My General International 50-185 saw has the stock splitter/guard and it tilts with the blade. It obviously doesn't raise and lower with the blade but you're wrong about the tilting part. I'm sure mine isn't the only one to do this but I don't remember what other brands also do anymore.

Bruce

And my Unii-saw.. and all other U.S. manufactured saws splitters tilt with the blade, Bruce. Just as you stated. I was in a hurry and didn't proof-read. It's cold in Atlanta and my wife's voice came from the kitchen, "Gumbo is ready". My name got typed and off we go to the dinner table.

Sorry for the erroneous error that should have been corrected before the fact. Gumbo sure was good! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

Sarge..

[Joe Spear]

On all of the saws I've used, the splitter does tilt with the blade. The ones that don't are the add-ons, like the MJ splitter, that insert into the throat plate instead of attaching to the trunnion mechanism.

[John Thompson]

On all of the saws I've used, the splitter does tilt with the blade. The ones that don't are the add-ons, like the MJ splitter, that insert into the throat plate instead of attaching to the trunnion mechanism.

And you're correct Joe. See my correction post that got posted a minute or so before yours... But... nice that you pointed out that a snap in splitter doesn't tilt.

The good news is with a snap in is you can remove it very quickly.. the bad news is most I've seen are not stable enough to mount a guard on top to accomodate either a Crown guard or effective plastic shield for dust collection. There may be one stable enough that I am not aware of as I don't research it daily.

Sarge..

[Steven Wilson]

Folk's the riving knife on many European table saws can be adjusted to ride higher or lower than the blade height. I leave mine higher than the blade so that I can attach the dust collection hood/guard. If I need to run a non through cut I just loosen one screw, drop the riving knife a bit and tighten; takes all of 30 seconds to do.

[Nissim Avrahami]

I would like to clarify

The riving knife and the blade are moving up/down (and tilt) as one unit.

Please have a look on the second pic of my previous post, you can see the riving knife height adjustment. I can set it lower or higher than the blade but, once I set it, say 1/8" below the blade, it will stay 1/8" below the blade at any blade height and will disappear below the table together with the blade...

And if they move as one unit, I don't understand why "any non-through cut would be limited in depth to that little bit of height difference unless you removed the riving knife."

There is no problem to make non-through cuts or to install and work with dado blade...the EU safety regulation states that "The blade guard must be installed for any operation" so the ones that want to use a dado blade are working with overhead guard that is acceptable by the law.

It's true that many European table saws have short arbor that will not accommodate a dado blade but some of them are designed with long arbor.

It's true that the riving knife is not an "insurance" against kickback because, the riving knife is only half of the "anti-kickback system"...the other half is the "Short fence" that extends only to 1~2" beyond the front teeth of the blade...

From looking at the blades around the shops, it looks to me that most of the saw blade are designed for the 30mm (1¼") arbor...only a few cheap "Made in Chiwan" table saws are coming with 16mm (5/8") hole.

On the first pic you can see the blade (and the riving knife) retracted below the table
On the second pic, you can see that I cut spline...not so deep
On the 3rd pic, I'm cutting deep tenon

797097971079711

[Matt Schell]

I have a bridgewood contractor saw that came with splitter/kickback paws. I am interested in the added safety of the riving knife. Can my saw be outfitted with a riving knife. Seeing as I am currently not using any splitter/pawls/guard.

thank you

[Bruce Benjamin]

I have a bridgewood contractor saw that came with splitter/kickback paws. I am interested in the added safety of the riving knife. Can my saw be outfitted with a riving knife. Seeing as I am currently not using any splitter/pawls/guard.

thank you

No, the internal workings are different enough that I don't think it would be possible. If it is possible it would be so expensive it wouldn't be practical. You should be using your guard and splitter or something from the aftermarket. It's foolish not to no matter what any of the, "Experts" say. But...Do whatever you want.

Bruce

[Steven Wilson]

Matt, you would need to fabricate something that would directly attach to your saw's arbor if you were interested in using a riving knife with your saw. I would doubt that you would be able to cost effectively fabricate a solution.

[Greg Pavlov]

.......
As mentioned.. on most saws including Euro the riving knife has to be dis-mounted to do a non through cut if it is taller than the blade.. or may have to even if it sits below the blade if you do a deeper cut than the distance the knife is below the blade.
..........
I'm trying to visualize why you would need to remove the riving knife if
it sits below the blade "if you do a deeper cut than the distance the knife
is below the blade." Would you explain this a little more?

[Joe Cipriano]

I'm trying to visualize why you would need to remove the riving knife if
it sits below the blade "if you do a deeper cut than the distance the knife
is below the blade." Would you explain this a little more?

I believe that's erroneous. If the riving knife is set, say, 1/4" below the highest tooth, the knife retains that relationship to the blade whether the non-thru cut is 1/2" or 2" deep - it's not going to interfere. If the riving knife depth cannot be adjusted below the highest tooth (I believe most can), it would have to be removed for a non-thru cut.

IMHO: One of the biggest "pros" of a riving knife is that is does not interfere with any saw operation, and does not have to be removed for non-thru cuts like a splitter - so there's no inclination to remove it for a non-thru cut, and then leave it off permanently.

HTH

[Bruce Benjamin]

IMHO: One of the biggest "pros" of a riving knife is that is does not interfere with any saw operation, and does not have to be removed for non-thru cuts like a splitter - so there's no inclination to remove it for a non-thru cut, and then leave it off permanently.

HTH


Well, there is that increasingly popular tablesaw cove cutting operation and I'm pretty sure no splitter/riving knife will work with that. :rolleyes:;)

Bruce

[Tim Marks]

One of the biggest "pros" of a riving knife is that is does not interfere with any saw operation
If you install an 6" or 8" dado blade in your saw, the european style riving knife, which is designed to be 1/4" below the top of a 10" blade, will now be 3/4"+ above the blade, interfering with the non-through dado cut.

The "american style" riving knife is higher then the blade and has anti-kickback pawls and bladeguard mounted on it (mandated by CSPC). This riving knife will have to be removed for ALL non-through cuts. This is true of ALL american saws (PM2000, SS, Jet Xacta, Grizzly 0651). These saws also have a (optional on some saws) low-profile (European-style) riving knife... which is similar to the riving knife seen in every SS picture.

This is the PM2000 riving knife, which goes up and down with the blade (the low profile riving knife is a $70 option):
http://quietboating.com/images/PM2000_splitter.JPG

[Joe Cipriano]

If you install an 6" or 8" dado blade in your saw, the european style riving knife, which is designed to be 1/4" below the top of a 10" blade, will now be 3/4"+ above the blade, interfering with the non-through dado cut...


In the pics Nissim provided, it appears that his Euro knife has more than enough vertical adjustment range to deal with a smaller dado set.

I've only seen the Euro knives (and the SS advertisement pics), and didn't realise that the standard American-style riving knives were that large. You're right - the larger knife would have to be removed for non-thru cuts.


Well, there is that increasingly popular tablesaw cove cutting operation and I'm pretty sure no splitter/riving knife will work with that. :rolleyes:;)

Bruce

I'm not sure that would fall under the "using the saw as designed" statement in the manual...;)

[John Thompson]

GREG and JOE...

On careful thought, you are correct that a riving knife set below the highest tooth would not interfere with a non-through cut as a cavity has been formed by the hightest tooth before it reaches the knife. So.. I stand corrected on that. No excuse on the error as I have a riving knife on one of my TS's and a modified splitter on the other. :o

The picture posted of Nissim's saw with an adjustement is a revelation to me as I have seen many of the older models that did not have that adjustment. The addition of it makes life much easier allowing a crown guard to be attached to the top of the riving knife. And for my own taste, a crown to stop stock that could be launched up is something I want to have and do on both my TS with a riving knife saw and TS with a splitter.

Sarge..

[Tim Marks]

In the pics Nissim provided, it appears that his Euro knife has more than enough vertical adjustment range to deal with a smaller dado set.
Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the low profile riving knives for the "american" saws (SS, Grizzly 0651, PM2000, Jet Xacta) can be vertically adjusted like that. Maybe to make it idiot-proof so somebody doesn't accidently try to cut off their riving knife if it gets loose?

Anybody witha SS or PM2000 want to confirm that?

[Joe Cipriano]

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the low profile riving knives for the "american" saws (SS, Grizzly 0651, PM2000, Jet Xacta) can be vertically adjusted like that. Maybe to make it idiot-proof so somebody doesn't accidently try to cut off their riving knife if it gets loose?

Anybody witha SS or PM2000 want to confirm that?

From the SS site: You get both the American riving knife with attached blade guard and the European knife (without guard); the SS has a quick-change mount to ease exchange (the "Product Features" video on the SS home page demonstrates it). I'm downloading the SS owner's manual now to see how (if) it handles a dado with the Euro knife...

[Bruce Benjamin]

Ok, so what function does a riving knife serve when cutting a dado? I don't see why you would want to leave the riving knife on and have to adjust it for the smaller diameter dado blade versus just removing it. It serves no purpose that I know of. I don't know how much trouble it is to remove a riving knife but is it that much more trouble than adjusting the height? You first have to adjust the height when you add the dado blade, then you have to set it back to where it belongs for a 10" blade. That doesn't sound too convenient to me.

I can remove my stock General International splitter in about 20 seconds or less and reinstall and adjust it in about 30 seconds or less. How long does it take to set and reset an adjustable height riving knife or to remove and reinstall a non-adjustable height riving knife?

So many people whine and complain about how slow and inconvenient it is to remove and reinstall their stock splitter and then tout the greatness of a riving knife. It sounds like American riving knives, (at least the ones taller than the blade) aren't all that convenient either when it comes to dados and other non-though cuts. About the only advantage they have is the distance from the blade to the knife, (depending on the height of the the blade). I'll admit I don't know much about riving knives from personal experience but judging by what I've read in this and other related threads, at least some of the American versions aren't necessarily the ultimate answer.

Bruce

[Joe Cipriano]

...at least on the SawStop...

"Note: when using a dado set, neither the blade guard nor the riving knife may be used. Instead, use other protective devices such as push sticks and featherboards."

That's direct from the manual. It also states:


"WARNING! Use the blade guard and spreader (read American-style riving knife - JC) for every operation for which it can be used, including all through-sawing."

SS suggests that the Euro-style riving knife be used for all rabbets and non-thru cuts - but not when using a dado.

Bruce has a point...

[Joe Cipriano]

Bruce -

SS uses a quick-release mount for the knives that retains alignment with the blade. Apparently, you pull a lever, pull one knife out, install the other, and lock it down - you're done.

[Greg Pavlov]

I believe that's erroneous. If the riving knife is set, say, 1/4" below the highest tooth, the knife retains that relationship to the blade whether the non-thru cut is 1/2" or 2" deep - it's not going to interfere. If the riving knife depth cannot be adjusted below the highest tooth (I believe most can), it would have to be removed for a non-thru cut.
HTH
That's what I figured, but then I thought that maybe I had missed something.

[Bruce Benjamin]

Bruce -

SS uses a quick-release mount for the knives that retains alignment with the blade. Apparently, you pull a lever, pull one knife out, install the other, and lock it down - you're done.

It sounds like the riving knife isn't the only thing that's well thought out on the SS. As I said, I have practically no experience with a riving knife equipped saw except for what I've read on this and other forums. But assuming that the people who are giving the information aren't just making it up then it sounds like as least some of the riving knife-equipped saws available in the U.S. aren't as convenient as they could be. It would be great if I'm wrong about the others too because I'm a firm believer in using every safety device recommended by the manufacturers. When a safety device isn't convenient to use then that gives people an excuse not to use it. Some people will find any excuse not to use a blade guard and some sort of splitter-type device and it sounds like the SS is trying to remove those excuses. But I know I've read at least one post on this forum from a brilliant SS owner who doesn't use the blade guard. Thanks for the good information.

Bruce

[Joe Cipriano]

...Some people will find any excuse not to use a blade guard and some sort of splitter-type device and it sounds like the SS is trying to remove those excuses. But I know I've read at least one post on this forum from a brilliant SS owner who doesn't use the blade guard. Thanks for the good information.

Bruce

Without the guard, an accident with the SawStop will only cost you money (replacement saw blade and brake cartridge) - not fingers. Can't say the same for any other table saw.

Like riding a motorcycle without a helmet. It's your right (in many states, anyway) to ride without. I don't judge - but I don't want to hear the gory details, either...:rolleyes:

My guard/splitter is ALWAYS on the saw...

I'm waiting patiently for the release of this...
http://www.sawstop.com/products-contractor-saw.htm...:D

[Bruce Benjamin]

Without the guard, an accident with the SawStop will only cost you money (replacement saw blade and brake cartridge) - not fingers. Can't say the same for any other table saw.



I seem to recall a quote from the owner of SS that he doesn't think that even the SS will prevent an amputation, (or a serious injury, I don't quite recall which words he used) under every condition. It goes a long way towards preventing a serious injury from contact with the blade but nothing is perfect and sooner or later there will be a more serious injury than just a nick on a hotdog. I think you're very wise to always use the blade guard and hopefully if others see your post they'll do the same. For those who don't and end up getting hurt I sure don't want to hear the details.

Bruce

[Tim Marks]

It sounds like the riving knife isn't the only thing that's well thought out on the SS.... it sounds like as least some of the riving knife-equipped saws available in the U.S. aren't as convenient as they could be.
Grizzly, PM2000, amd Jet Xacta also have a quick release tool-less installation systems for the riving knife, similar to SS. And all three saws have both a low profile riving knife (optional on PM2000 and Jet) and a riving knife/bladguard/anti-kickback pawl assembly, which look virtually identical to SS.

I don't see where you draw the conclusion that SS riving knife is more convenient then the other three choices (excluding Euro saws) currently available.

Below is a picture from the PM2000 manual showing the riving knife installation. The SS is a little beefier design, with a rotating handle instead of a camlock clamp.

BTW, I agree with you, Bruce, about the issue of time to remove/reinstall the bladeguard. It also takes no tools and 10-20 seconds on my Ridgid TS3650, so I never make a cut without it in place unless it is a non-thru cut (ok, I have tried to make a non-thu cut with it in place, and that didn't turn out so well...) Not everyone's saws are as well designed, and it seems like alot of people with a very bad splitter design ASSUME every splitter is designed like theirs (ie, doesn't change angle with the blade, takes tools to remove/reinstall, difficult to use) and jump on the riving knife band-wagon as the only safe solution. I have read post after post of people stating that one of the advantages of a riving knife is that matches the angle of the blade when you make a bevel cut, unlike a splitter...


But I know I've read at least one post on this forum from a brilliant SS owner who doesn't use the blade guard.
It is interesting to read through the sawstop "saves" and figure out how many of the people saved were not using a bladeguard. Most of the pictures of the saw show in it's apparent natural mode of operation...without a bladeguard. That is a pity, because the SS bladguarde is very cool, very low profile, hugging the blade... a real work of art (although it doesn't do much for sawdust collection). Even if I trusted the SS to save me EVERY single time (fortionately, the PLC doesn't use Windows OS), I would still use a bladeguard, because if I triggered it, I would be out $170 ($100 blade + $70 cartridge)... and I am a cheapskate...

[John Newell]

Without going around to websites to compare, the Bosch 4100 portable has, I believe, the same design package, and they can be used individually or in any combination.



Grizzly, PM2000, amd Jet Xacta also have a quick release tool-less installation systems for the riving knife, similar to SS. And all three saws have both a low profile riving knife (optional on PM2000 and Jet) and a riving knife/bladguard/anti-kickback pawl assembly, which look virtually identical to SS.

[Joe Cipriano]

...Not everyone's saws are as well designed, and it seems like alot of people with a very bad splitter design ASSUME every splitter is designed like theirs (ie, doesn't change angle with the blade, takes tools to remove/reinstall, difficult to use) and jump on the riving knife band-wagon as the only safe solution. I have read post after post of people stating that one of the advantages of a riving knife is that matches the angle of the blade when you make a bevel cut, unlike a splitter...

Hmpf...even my inexpensive Ridgid 2400 has a guard/splitter that installs without tools and tilts with the blade. Yeah - it has to be realigned when reinstalled (so I remove it as infrequently as possible...;)), but realignment only takes a minute or so.

I'm probably the laziest person that's ever stood upright - but when it comes to ensuring that my body parts remain firmly attached, I'll make the effort...;)