Router/Table Saw Jig for Cutting Mitered Edges

[Jim Crockett]

I was just experimenting, making my first box with mitered edges. I set the table saw blade to 45 deg with a drafting square and could see no light between the blade and the square. Cut opposing pieces exactly the same size but when I assembled the box, one miter was slightly off. Don't know that I could set the blade any better than it was and the joint wasn't very much off but enough to show on the finished product.

I suppose that the problem could possibly have been the plywood I was using - 1/2" HD poplar plywood with horrible voids and stuffed filler between layers, but a jig would certainly make it easier to cut these edges. Particularly since I want to start building some boxes - the look like a lot of fun!

I seem to recall seeing plans for a jig/sled for the table saw that allowed you to cut a 45 deg edge miter with the blade at 90 deg - there was a guide piece set at 45 on which the piece rested. I just did a search for miter jig & miter sled and all I found were sleds for cutting flat corner miters vs edge miters. Seems as though a similar device could be made for the router table, using a straight bit.

Has anyone seen plans for a jig or sled such as I describe above? If so, I would appreciate some information as to where I might find such a critter.

Thanks,

JimC

[Bill Wyko]

You might look at the INCRA miter 1000se. If set up properly it's extremely accurate.:)

[Jim Crockett]

You might look at the INCRA miter 1000se. If set up properly it's extremely accurate.:)

I'm sure that the the Incra Miter 1000SE would work very well for crosscut miters, but can't see how it could be used for edge miters.


JimC

[Joe Cipriano]

There's a nice bevel sled on the cover of the Feb WWJ, and a better pic inside - but no plans. If you can wait, WWJ will have the plans for it ("Small parts mitering jig") in their March issue. Pics here...

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/articles/187_MOW_Dresser_Valet.htm

... figures 4 and 5.

HTH

[Doug Shepard]

No answer on the jig question but you can fix slight gaps on miter corners pretty easily by sawing through it with a handsaw. A japanese style pull saw works best as the blade kerf is so thin it doesnt usually change the fit at the other corners. Just clamp the 2 pieces together and carefully saw down through the joint line.

[rocky brown]

i was having the same problem until i bought a wixey digital angle gauge. maybe the best $40 i ever spent.

rb

[Art Mann]

You can buy a router bit that will bevel edges at 45 degrees. You can also build a tablesaw sled for the purpose. However, each of these methods has its own set of problems that can produce errors. The truth is, you were already using what I believe is the best tool for the job. It is always good practice to make trial cuts on scrap material that exaggerate the error and use a precision reference before cutting the actual work piece. Make further adjustments as necessary. Don't just rely on your blade setting technique, even if it is the Wixey - which is an excellent tool by the way. Also, it is important that your miter gauge be exactly square to the miter groove.

[Mike Cutler]

Jim

How big are the individual pieces of material?
Will they always be made of Plywood, or will hardwood be the end use material?
If the individual box pieces are not huge, and not made of plywood. I would suggest making a shooting board for 45 degree edges,and using a plane. I know, I know. It's a handtool suggestion, but once you make it, it's made. It's also adapable and fast.
Do the close work on the TS, the way you just did, and shoot the edges with a low angle plane and they can be made perfect. No test cuts, no trial and error.

[John Browne]

i was having the same problem until i bought a wixey digital angle gauge. maybe the best $40 i ever spent.

rb

Ditto! For a sled, just make a simple crosscut sled, but when you make the cut through the fence and base, set the blade to EXACTLY 45 degrees with the Wixey angle gauge. From that point on, just tilt the blade until it lines up with the center of the kerf in the sled and you will be exactly 45 degrees every time. Got this tip from a book on box making, I believe from Taunton.

Of course, if you OWN the Wixey you can just use it every time.

[Bruce Benjamin]

Ditto! For a sled, just make a simple crosscut sled, but when you make the cut through the fence and base, set the blade to EXACTLY 45 degrees with the Wixey angle gauge. From that point on, just tilt the blade until it lines up with the center of the kerf in the sled and you will be exactly 45 degrees every time. Got this tip from a book on box making, I believe from Taunton.

Of course, if you OWN the Wixey you can just use it every time.

Use the Wixey or the Beall Tilt Box, both work well. However, neither one will necessarily give you, "EXACTLY" 45 degree cuts as both have a margin for error of about .1 degrees. That may not sound like much but even my lousy vision can see a miter that's off by that much. Actually, the joints could be off by as much as .2 degrees when you add .1 degree error from both sides.

That being said, I've been able to produce very tight miters with both the Wixey and the Beall, (The Beall is the better unit after I tested both side by side) but if I were making a jig like you suggest I wouldn't do it using either gauge without doing a trial and error test on some scrap pieces.

Bruce

[Jason Beam]

You don't need any fancy measuring tools (though i have a few myself) for this job, though.

Think complimentary angles if you can. On shortish boxes, you can run each half of the miter on each side of the blade (face down on the left, face up on the right for example) - this way, no matter what angle your blade is at, they'll go together to make a perfect 90 every time because their respective angles will compliment one another.

This is tough to do with some designs, of course. Your faces need to be dead parallel. And it pretty much requires that the workpieces be perfect rectangles (square, parallel edges). But it works and works VERY well. If you can plan it right, each corner could be made in a single cut - reducing even more chance for errors to be introduced.


Another thing I do after taking advantage of complimentary angles is to only assemble two sets of corners (those diagonal from each other). Like the upper left and lower right corners. This lets me adjust any mistakes by laying the exposed miters (after the glue dries) on a piece of sandpaper stuck to something VERY straight and flat. This basically creates a smooth plane between those other two diagonal miters. Do that for both sets and they can't help but go together perfectly. The trick is making sure you don't take too much off one and end up with sides that are of different lengths.

A bevel sled will make this process considerably easier, though. Setup just like any other panel cutting or crosscut sled, except you punch your slot through with the blade tilted. Then you can setup stop blocks and other aids to keep the pieces coming out uniform. :)

[Frank Seeley]

Jim, if you go to search and enter dresser valet you will find a picture of the jig you are looking for.
The writer built it for making that box, and there is supposed to be a set of plans for it in the next issue of the magazine Hope this helps
frank Seeleyf5seel@hotmail.com

[Frank Seeley]

I was just experimenting, making my first box with mitered edges. I set the table saw blade to 45 deg with a drafting square and could see no light between the blade and the square. Cut opposing pieces exactly the same size but when I assembled the box, one miter was slightly off. Don't know that I could set the blade any better than it was and the joint wasn't very much off but enough to show on the finished product.

I suppose that the problem could possibly have been the plywood I was using - 1/2" HD poplar plywood with horrible voids and stuffed filler between layers, but a jig would certainly make it easier to cut these edges. Particularly since I want to start building some boxes - the look like a lot of fun!

I seem to recall seeing plans for a jig/sled for the table saw that allowed you to cut a 45 deg edge miter with the blade at 90 deg - there was a guide piece set at 45 on which the piece rested. I just did a search for miter jig & miter sled and all I found were sleds for cutting flat corner miters vs edge miters. Seems as though a similar device could be made for the router table, using a straight bit.

Has anyone seen plans for a jig or sled such as I describe above? If so, I would appreciate some information as to where I might find such a critter.

Thanks,

JimCJim use google and type in dresser valet, and you will find the jig you are describing
Frank Seeley

[Michael Schwartz]

You were on the right track using the drafting square, the key is using that to get close. The way I do it is to set the blade as close to 45 degrees as possible and then to make a series of test cuts in 3/8" mdf or other scrap sheet goods, assemble them into boxes, and then micro adjust as needed untill all the miters are perfect.

I takes takes time and you can spend upwards of an hour setting up for the cuts but they will be perfect.

If you are using a high end saw that has reliable positive stops for the 45 degree setting you can then go back to that setting, although it would be wise to check to make sure it is perfect.

[glenn bradley]

Bevel sled:81821 I had great results working with redwood on the CMS. When I tried the same method with harder woods I picked up just enough deviation to make my miters unacceptable. The sled with the hold downs works very well. I also have the Wixey.

[Andy Haney]

Jim,

I THINK I've built what you asked about. I sent you a PM.

Andy

[Kevin Smith]

Jim,

Here's a couple of things you might want to take a look at. One is from the Jointech website - under the free downloads section (Vertical Miter Fixture)

http://www.jointech.com/pdf/pdf_vertical-miter.pdf

The second thing you might look at is what John Nixon from Eagle Lake Woodworking built (Angling Tenon Jig).

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/TenonJig/index.htm

Using this type of fixture with a T/S sled can really simplify those cuts.

[Norman Pyles]

Seen them make a jig like the one you are looking for, on The Woodsmith Shop. I think they may have plans online.

[Don Bullock]

Perhaps I'm fortunate. My miter saw is accurate enough to cut the corners of the boxes I've made. They come out so good that I haven't attempted them on my new table saw.

[Charlie Barnes]

You mentioned that you cut the opposing pieces exactly the same size, so I assume that this means length. If that's true then ignore the rest of this. All of the focus here is on the angle of the cut, but don't forget that if one opposite side is slightly different in length, it would have the effect of altering the angle of the miters.

[glenn bradley]

Perhaps I'm fortunate. My miter saw is accurate enough to cut the corners of the boxes I've made. They come out so good that I haven't attempted them on my new table saw.

Small thread-jack.

Don, could you tell us what kind of saw, blade and woods you use? Thanks!