Lasering Glass Question

[Linda Butterfield]

I am new to laser engraving and experimenting with different substrates. Currently trying glass. After playing around with different settings on my 50 watt laser, I found some good results except for one thing.

I don't know if I'm lasering too deep but the end results seems to have some sharp edges when I run my finger across the area, especially if the graphic has some points as opposed to rounded areas. I'm using settings of 100% Power/26 Speed/300 PPI.

Is there some way to buff it or something to take the hard edges off?

I have noticed that if I lower the power to 75%, on some glass (maybe because it's cheep glass?) that I don't get an even result. Some areas etch and some areas you can just barely see the image.:cool:

Any suggestions/help for lasering glass (such as wine/champagne glasses/beer mugs would be appreciated.

[Sam Yerardi]

I assume you are using a CO2 laser. One thing you might want to do is tilt the field that you are lasing slightly so that any back-reflection is not going back straight into the laser tube. Not enough to take the focal point out. You will have to experiment with this. Some materials have a somewhat high reflectivity (copper, etc.) and are difficult to lase. Back-reflection have a detrimental effect on the CO2 tube itself as well as affecting the resulting mark. That may not even be a problem for you but I would look at it. Lasing glass is a difficult operation. If you go to Universal Laser's website they used to have an article about lasing glass and what that entails.

[George Elston]

Try changing your black to 80% ( do a search on "80%" for posts on how). Then wipe with DNA or acetone.

[Bruce Volden]

Linda,

I run my 25 Watt machines @ 30 power, 80 speed 200 DPI. I too get the "fissures?" and that is what happens with glass. I use a stiff brush to get rid of the micro-shards. I have read where other people have had the glass shatter when running on high power :(. Time to experiment more with different settings 'til you find where you are the happiest.

Bruce

[Harlan Kilbourn]

Here is one of the Glass discussions
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=691913#post691913

Harlan

[Angus Hines]

I have found with my machine the settings of 50 speed and 100 power 3-400 ppi work best.

The thing to remember with any polished surface all you are trying to do is remove that thin surface area, not 'carve' down into the glass.

[Dan Hintz]

In regard to Sam's comment on back-reflection... place a thin layer of wetted paper down on the glass.

[Jack Harper]

There are several sealers on the market that can be used to go over your finished lazed piece that will smooth out the finish and seal it. The sealers also stop oils from you hands and other debris left from cleaners and rags from catching in the rough etchings. These sealers are used by sand blasting companies that might blast shower door images and such. If you have any problems finding them, let me know and I will lookup what I use.

[Sam Yerardi]

Dan,

Interesting suggestion. Being on the design side of things you don't get to hear a lot of what customers are doing.

[Anna Linn]

Hello, pretty new here, just been lurking about. Also, I'm very new to using a laser but it is so much fun and always exciting to see what the results will be.

I use liquid dish soap on glass and I've been playing with laser settings to find what works for me so I think it takes some experimenting to find what will work for you.

[Eric Allen]

There are several sealers on the market that can be used to go over your finished lazed piece that will smooth out the finish and seal it. The sealers also stop oils from you hands and other debris left from cleaners and rags from catching in the rough etchings. These sealers are used by sand blasting companies that might blast shower door images and such. If you have any problems finding them, let me know and I will lookup what I use.

I was wondering if something like this might be around, what do you use?

[Jack Harper]

Eric,

I will check my cabinet on Monday and post the brand.

[Vaughan Raymond]

I've engraved lots of glass and it's always sharp. I use a razor blade and water and just scrape it off. It's always nice and smooth underneath

[Linda Forte]

Linda,

If you are lasering text, try selecting the artwork and converting it to a 300dpi bitmap (Bitmaps>Convert to Bitmap>Grayscale 8 bit>deselect all options). It gives a a little texture to the type, but smooths it out some.

I did 800 glasses before Christmas with pics of old fashioned banks on them for an auction house, and they loved them. No complaints about sharp edges.

Linda F.

[Jack Harper]

I was wondering if something like this might be around, what do you use?


Eric,

The glass sealer is from Frederick Art Glass. The product is Thompson's Etched Glass Sealer. You can search "Frederick Art Glass" and quickly find their website. It works really well. I lazed grass images in my conference room windows (three panels each about 4'x8') and then used this to seal and smooth it out and they came out great.

[Eric Allen]

Eric,

The glass sealer is from Frederick Art Glass. The product is Thompson's Etched Glass Sealer. You can search "Frederick Art Glass" and quickly find their website. It works really well. I lazed grass images in my conference room windows (three panels each about 4'x8') and then used this to seal and smooth it out and they came out great.
Thanks much! I was wondering if there might be a way to seal it and still have it look nice. Figured even in a frame it would start collecting a bit of dust on the back side.

[Benedict Roussos]

You can find many tips, included one for glass, at www.laserbits.com (http://www.laserbits.com)
Benedict Roussos

[Linda Butterfield]

Thank you for all the tips on lassing glass. We are actually lassing glass Mugs and after a little more experimenting, I think we found the right settings, at least for these particular mugs.

On our ULS 50 watt, I'm using 60% Power, 60% speed and 300 PPI with a density of 6. Both graphics and text are coming out smooth to the touch and white enough to see it.

May have our first real order come in soon for 240 glass mugs.:) Does anyone know of a wholesale supplier with inexpensive beer mugs?

[Henrik Hansen]

Hello, i don't get any sharp thing when i do glass, i just use a wet newspaper on the glass, and it works perfectly!
Seems that the main thing, is to cool it down.

[Scott Shepherd]

Does anyone know of a wholesale supplier with inexpensive beer mugs?

I haven't ordered anything from them yet, but I did get the catalog and price list from Marck & Associates at www.marckassoc.com (http://www.marckassoc.com) . You have to request a catalog, which comes with a CD that's got the catalog and pricing on it (along with including a printed, very nice color catalog).

They appear to have a few beer mugs available (along with a lot of other nice looking glassware).

[Dave Lyda]

Check your phone book yellow pages for restaurant supply/supplies. Sometimes you can find some inexpensive mugs from them without the horrendous shipping costs. Also check with the restaurant owners to see where they purchase their glassware.....it might even turn into an order from them once they know about you and what you can do with your laser.

[Janet Liddiard]

I recently had to also find inexpenisve root beer mugs. After a lot of research, I found that although there were many out there for around $1.00, the shipping costs ended up being too expensive. So, I called the Restaurant Supply stores in my state so we could pick up the glasses in person. I ended up getting them (after much negotiation) for $2.00 a piece at Standard Restaurant Supply. Any chance you'd share what industry you got the order from (not specifics, obviously... but just as idea sharing for the forum)?

[Linda Butterfield]

Janet, I haven't been able to check our local restaurant supplier yet but we did find some beer mugs at the local dollar store. Only problem with that is finding quantity. We picked them up mainly as cheap samples to practice on and with a little experimenting, we found the settings that work.

We haven't secured the order for the 240 mugs yet but are working on it. We may get the order through the Fraternal Order of Eagles of which I am a member of. Every year we have our State Convention where new officers are sworn in. They are looking for the mugs to sell at Convention for a fund raiser. (BTW, if you haven't heard the the FOE, check out the web site at www.foe.com (http://www.foe.com). I'm sure there are several local chapters right near where you live.) I have the New England area covered.

[Sam Yerardi]

For anyone that is interested, a CO2 laser marks glass by fracturing the surface of the glass. That is why the edges are rough. The idea is to try to make the fracture as shallow as possible. The less deep, the cleaner and sharper the image. When a laser is directing light energy at a focal point, there is some time period while the material being lased heats up. That process with some types of lasers is controlled better than others. CO2 lasing technology is essentially the same for most vendors. Some have unique characteristics but on average they all purchase their tubes from a few manufacturers. How they control the beam, timing, software used, etc., is what separates the different vendors.