Drying time for lumber? Can I cut already

[Tim Allaire]

I recently aquired about 150ft/bd of walnut. While I have some cherry that has been sitting for about 7 months. I have placed sticks to speed the process up and weighted it (right now uncovered from the elements-oops!). My thickest board is 2x3 all 15ft long. I also live in the piedmont region of NC (I would think that makes a difference). What is the recommed drying time for this hardwood? Is the same for all types of wood of similar thickness?

I also have heard that kiln can get you down to the prefered (what is it 6-8% Not quite sure about that number) water weight where as natural drying cannot. Is this true? Suggestions/Comments?

Tim

[Chris Padilla]

Air-dried walnut ALWAYS looks much better than kiln-dried walnut so if you're patient, the air-dried will yield beautiful hues of red and purple and have an overall richer look to it. Walnut is funny this way.

I don't get the dimension you used for your thickest board: 2x3? Is it 2" or 3" thick? Rule of thumb is 1 year per 1" of thickness.

6-8% is the optimum range for building fine furniture.

[Tim Allaire]

sorry for the unclarity there...I meant they were 2" by 3"...thanks

[Chris Padilla]

Being nearly square, it may air-dry faster than 2 years. Only way to tell is with a moisture meter. That is an interesting size you have and being quite long. Is it destined for molding? :)

[Randy Cohen]

better get them covered...its gonna snow tonight.

[Al Killian]

The thing that determines the drying time is the moister in the air. The dryer the air the faster it dries. The kiln will not change the color of walnut, steaming does. Kiln are nice becouse they will kill any bugs that maybe living in them, plus kilns can get the wood dyier then air drying.

[Lee Schierer]

I've also heard the 1 year per inch of thickness number before. However, lumber stored outside or in a damp environment will still have a significant moisture content even after that rule of thumb time frame. Once you air dry it outside, you need to move it indoors to a dry location for a good length of time so the MC drops down to a safe working level of about 8%. I've had problems with lumber that was stored in a shed on the east side of a building where the building never saw any sun due to the trees that was over 12% moisture even after many years in the building.

Wood in my shop stays at about 7% even in the summer. In the winter the heating system dries the air and also the lumber down to 7%.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Lumber for furniture is typically dried to 6-8% as that is usually the lowest relative humidity found in a house. If lumber is used that is considerably higher there is a chance of it drying and cracking or warping after it sits in the low humidity for a while. But I think it's generally safe to use in the 10-12% range because if lumber sits for any length of time (and it usually does) after leaving a kiln, it will take up some moisture from the air. A rule of thumb a lot use is to bring the wood into the shop where an object will be built and let it acclimate a couple weeks.

[Jim Becker]

Time will vary, but you can base your estimate on the popular "1 year per inch of thickness" and refine that using a good moisture meter. 10-12% MC is typical for what you will end up with as stated by others. The pile needs to be outdoors, 8" or more off the ground and in an air where there is good airflow. Stickers should be dry and of a species that is not hight in tannins to help reduce or avoid staining. You must have air moving through the pile so it wicks off the moisture as it is released. Only the top of the pile should be covered and that's to keep off standing water, ice, snow, etc. Ideally, you want to rotate the pile once in awhile, but not many folks will actually do that.

[Steve Clardy]

Air drying in a dry enviroment

1 year per inch of thickness.
Anything over 4 inches thick, add another year

[Fred Voorhees]

Lumber for furniture is typically dried to 6-8% as that is usually the lowest relative humidity found in a house. If lumber is used that is considerably higher there is a chance of it drying and cracking or warping after it sits in the low humidity for a while. But I think it's generally safe to use in the 10-12% range because if lumber sits for any length of time (and it usually does) after leaving a kiln, it will take up some moisture from the air. A rule of thumb a lot use is to bring the wood into the shop where an object will be built and let it acclimate a couple weeks.

I have never used kiln dried lumber, only air dried and have pretty much never worked with anything below ten or nine percent and have yet to have a problem.

[Curt Harms]

is lumber that's kiln dried to 6% in January (heated building) is not going to be 6% in August unless it's in an air conditioned space, but rather 10-12%. I know with pine kiln drying "sets" the sap so that's an advantage. Once lumber reaches equilibrium, does it matter if it get there via kiln drying over air drying, except for speed and bug killing? I've had 4/4 air dried stock reach 6% in 6 months if kept in a heated basement.

The above is based on a relatively humid environment, i.e. east coast vs. desert southwest.