Veneered plywood for cabinet doors?

[Chris Yarish]

I am looking to reconfigure and redesign my kitchen. I am going for a sleek modernist look for the cabinetry with flat faced veneered doors rather than frame and panel doors. Poggenpohl offers many styles that I like.
http://www.poggenpohl-usa.com/

My question is whether or not to use edgebanded veneered plywood or to veneer the doors/drawer fronts myself over an MDF substrate. One option will take considerable more time than the other, but is it a difference that will make a difference?

What would be some of the advantages or disadvantages of using one over the other?

Thanks.

[Chris Padilla]

Plywood is lighter than MDF. MDF might be more susceptible to moisture (think near the range/stovetop) over time. Plywood holds screws better than MDF. Both are pretty darn stable and basically don't move.

What kind of edgebanding treatment are you considering? Iron-on thin strips? Real wood edging? I'm not a fan of iron-on edging; I prefer hardwood edging as it is surely more durable over time but it is more time and work.

With veneers, of course, you have A LOT of choices of wood but doing a whole kitchen IS a lot of work. Do you have a veneer press? Vacuum bags...the whole works?

Hope I've helped you a bit.

[Chris Yarish]

Plywood is lighter than MDF. MDF might be more susceptible to moisture (think near the range/stovetop) over time. Plywood holds screws better than MDF. Both are pretty darn stable and basically don't move.

What kind of edgebanding treatment are you considering? Iron-on thin strips? Real wood edging? I'm not a fan of iron-on edging; I prefer hardwood edging as it is surely more durable over time but it is more time and work.

With veneers, of course, you have A LOT of choices of wood but doing a whole kitchen IS a lot of work. Do you have a veneer press? Vacuum bags...the whole works?

Hope I've helped you a bit.

Thanks Chris.

I have a 54" x 109" vaccuum bag and vaccuum. Machinery and tools are not an issue. I was planning on going with walnut, so since walnut veneered plywood is pretty common, availability/veneer choice is not an issue....labor is a bit of an issue. If I can avoid veneering every single door/drawer front I'd like to...especially if there is essentially no difference in using one over the other.

I would edgeband with real wood....1/16th of an inch or so...no iron on edgebanding.

Plywood, IMO, will hold the european blum hinge cups better. I used mdf once for cabinet doors and I was always concerned that frequent use would feather away at the tiny particles that mdf is made of.

[Chris Padilla]

For kitchen doors/drawer fronts, I'd stick with plywood. I agree with you about MDF use over time.

How will you edgeband? Straight-on or mitered corners? Miters are nicer, perhaps, but will take more time, but straight-on/trim-to-size could be an aesthetic choice as well although the exposed end-grain will tend to soak up more finish and look darker. Make a sample of each to see what you think although if you are going so thin on the edgeband, it may not mater which way you do it. I tend to like beefier edgebanding but the project dictates that some times.

[frank shic]

chris, you may want to consider using blum inserta hinges if you go the MDF/veneer route as they'll hold better than the screws.

[Jim Becker]

Simply for speed, as long as the species and grain/cut I wanted is available in sheet goods, I'd go with the plywood and edge band it myself. In fact, I plan on doing that for our new laundry room cabinets. For anything exotic, you'll likely need to veneer your own.

Frank's advice on the hinges is spot-on...for MDF, the Inserta's are the bee's-knees. Even Ikea provides them with their kitchen cabinet doors at this point as they don't have the fastener challenges that MDF brings for hinges.

[Chris Yarish]

For kitchen doors/drawer fronts, I'd stick with plywood. I agree with you about MDF use over time.

How will you edgeband? Straight-on or mitered corners? Miters are nicer, perhaps, but will take more time, but straight-on/trim-to-size could be an aesthetic choice as well although the exposed end-grain will tend to soak up more finish and look darker. Make a sample of each to see what you think although if you are going so thin on the edgeband, it may not mater which way you do it. I tend to like beefier edgebanding but the project dictates that some times.

I have been contemplating a raw plywood edge. Perhaps routing a 1/4" groove around the width of the plywood and inlaying a piece of either walnut or padauk into it. I have to do some planning in this respect....but I will likely go with the plywood option....unless someone has some compelling reasons why i shouldn't use it.

My main concern, truth be told, was stability. I've had a few large sheets of plywood warp over time....but they were considerable lower quality and they sat for a significant time period. I will be working with the plywood within days of purchasing.