Miter Bar Slot on Router table

[Andrew Nemeth]

I just finished assembly of the top for my router table. I used 3/4" MDF with 1/2" solid surface (corian) laminated to the top and bottom. The top is 24" x 32" and will have the router centered on the top and mounted in an aluminum plate. My question is about the placement of the miter bar slot on the table. I purchased an aluminum extrusion from Peachtree that is both a miter slot (T-style) and T-track side by side (see the link below). Where in relation to the table edge and router opening should I install the track? Should the smaller T-Track slot be mounted towards the edge of the table or towards the middle of the table?


http://www.ptreeusa.com/mini_miter_t_track_combo_detail.htm

Thanks again!

[Gary Keedwell]

Do you really need a slot? People say that the slot weakens the top and sometimes makes it unflat. I use a sled and find it more then adequate.
Gary

[Art Mann]

I agree with Gary. I bought an aluminum extrusion when I built my router table a couple of years ago with the expectation I would cut a groove for it and install it when needed. That day has never come.

[Norman Pyles]

No slot for me either, sled is the way to go. Even Norm is using a sled now.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Does anyone have plans for a sled?

[Dave Falkenstein]

Does anyone have plans for a sled?

The sled you use will be compatible with the fence you use. Maybe if you post your fence choice, or a photo of your fence, someone can suggest an appropriate sled. For example, I use an Incra fence on the router table. The sled is also made by Incra and rides on the fence.

I don't see the need for a miter slot either.

[Bill Huber]

I use the slot every now and then, not a lot but I do use it.
I have a Jessem and it is the same size as you have made and the front edge of the slot is 5 1/8 in form the front of the table. I only have one 3/4 inch slot, not 2 like you will have.

[glenn bradley]

I use the miter slot I added for feather boards. I reinforced the table under the area dado'd out for the track. My sled rides in the slot as opposed to against the fence so there again the slot is part of my approach. Styles vary and we all work differently but I wouldn't want to do without the stacked feather boards for doing panels on edge.

My sled is for rail and stile work:

79265

P.s. I should mention that my slot is the same distance from the bit-center as my TS slot is from the blade. this makes a few jigs interchangeable; tennon, box joint, etc. I went through great pains to have the slot parallel to my TS slots (obviously my RT is attached to the TS). Sleds can actaully stradle the TS and RT slots which gives a wide stable guide plane.

[Ron Bontz]

Seems to be a lot of different preferences. I too have a combo T track in my 36x27 center mount router table. The miter slot is closest to the router plate because the T-slot jigs and feather boards are generally more flexible with respect to the distance they may be adjusted.
I cut a lot of mortise and tennon joints on my router table so I use my miter slot a lot as well. I also have a sled but it is modified with a T miter bar that fits the T/miter track. Same concept as the old shaper jigs. My fence moves parallel with two cam guides as opposed to pivoting so it made sense to me to keep everything square and I don't have to replace the jig base or backer blocks. I use scrap wood for that. :)

[Chuck Lenz]

I just finished assembly of the top for my router table. Where in relation to the table edge and router opening should I install the track?
Thats a really good question, I'M working on a top also and I had about 6" between the front edge of the top and the front edge of the table insert. I centered it between the two. Almost all the premade router table tops have the miter slot about a inch away from the front edge of the table insert. I've heard stories of the miter bar makeing a top sag also, so I kept mine away from the plate some. Weather it's right or not, I have no idea. Time will tell. I use the miter slot occasionally on my old table, so I wanted it on this one too.

[Mike Cutler]

I have a T-Track in my router table top also. The top is 2'x4' double layer of baltic birch the t-track is located directly over a 2x4 support underneath. Installing a miter slot doesn't have to weaken a top. Ypu just have to realize that it will and plan accordingly.
The slot is located about 2" from the router plate, or about 6" from center of the router shaft. I can use a sled, or a miter bar.
It's not a feature I use a lot, but when I need it, it's there.

[Andrew Nemeth]

My fence moves parallel with two cam guides as opposed to pivoting so it made sense to me to keep everything square

Ron,

Can you explain your fence a bit more? What exactly are "cam guides"? Is it a commercially available fence or did you make it?

I'm also interested in keeping my fence parallel to the miter slot. My current idea has the fence riding in two short lengths of miter bar slots that are mounted parallel to each other in the table.

Thanks again!

[Tom Clark FL]

Andrew,

On my 20 year old table I left out the slot and have never seen a need for one either. However, I often use this simple jig for routing the ends of narrow pieces. A small piece of scrap between the work piece and my fixture acts as a sacrificial part to keep from routing into my fixture. I have also just used a square piece of scrap wood to hold small parts square while routing thru slots in them.

I don't use a plate as the table top tilts up for very easy bit changes.

[Jason Beam]

I'm a non-slotter myself.

Here's my plan for my sled (with or without my incra fence):

A 6"x6" square of baltic birch ply with some form of handle made up on it. The trick is that it's DEAD square.

I mostly use it for coping operations like on rail ends for rail/stile bits. Make it as thick as you want. I use my Incra right-angle fixture for box joints and dovetails because holding the stock vertical AND perpendicular to the fence is made VERY easy with that fixture.

[Howard Acheson]

Does anyone have plans for a sled?

You don't need anything fancy. Just cut a 12" square from 3/4" plywood. Be sure the corners are 90 degrees. Now just put one edge against the fence and the workpiece against the appropriate edge of the plywood and push both through the bit. The good part is that the plywood acts as a backer too preventing blow out when the bit exits the workpiece.

Again, keep it simple. Just trim off the chewed up edge of the plywood every so often and build a new one when it no longer supplies the support you need.

[Steve Mellott]

I've never used a miter slot on a router table - don't have to worry about lining the fence up with the slot. I also use an Incra jig with a sled that rides on the fence. That way the sled is always lined up with the fence.

Steve

[John Petsche]

nice ideas for jigs. Thanks.

[Bill White]

Just goes ta show ya how many opins are out there.....
My shop made router top has a miter slot fitted with an extruded insert 5 " from the center on the router bit. Left and right perpendicular fence adjuster slots.
Top is made from doubled laminate countertop cut outs with a Lee Valley circular router mounting plate. Freud VS router that is adjustable from the top. Fence is from MDF with adjustable wings shellaced for a finish. This puppy has routed a bunch of stuff. No sag, no probs.
I use a sled for some stuff as well.
Best part? Aside from the plate and router, it was built from off cuts. Cost? Router plate and tracks.
So there.............
Just the way I did it.
Bill

[David Hostetler]

No need for the T track in my book, but the slot, yep, I use mine all the time. I made the initial mistake of putting it too far out. Now, the edge of the aluminum miter slot is 1" from the outside edge of my insert. It allows me to use feather boards and sleds no problem...

[Alan Schaffter]

I have a relatively standard NYW router table/cabinet with Woodpeckers' lift (which I motorized). The top is a 1-1/4" thick MDF (1/2" + 3/4") with high pressure laminate applied to both surfaces. In the past I registered all work and my cope & stick and right angle sleds off the fence, so never needed a miter slot, until . . . . . . standby for shameless plug . . . .

a little over a year ago I started testing the new INCRA I-BOX box joint jig. It is designed to work on both a tablesaw AND router tables- with a miter slot. I clamped edge guides to the top of the router table and used a router to cut a slot for an aluminum miter track. I positioned the slot about the same distance from the center of the bit opening as my tablesaw miter slot is away from the blade.

So, in my mind, for no other reason than so I can use an I-BOX (or, if I didn't want the best, the Rockler, Woodsmith, and a few other box joint jigs) I recommend all router tables have miter slots. ;)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/photo21.JPG