Milling bits for DP?

[Russ Filtz]

Any good sources for decent/cheap milling bits for a drill press? Looking for an end mill for my JET DP.

[Jim Becker]

Do keep in mind that a normal DP isn't designed for lateral loads...

[Russ Filtz]

Looking only to do some light stuff and only the vertical end-mill. Shouldn't have any more lateral/torque loading than a large forstner!

[Bill White]

I've used a 1/2" end mill in my OLD (1952) Craftsman DP with good results. Check out Grizzley for good prices on tooling.
Slow the speed, and use a lube. Light oil or kerosene.
Bill

[Ken Deckelman]

Also check with Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM), they are very competitive with pricing.

[Gary Keedwell]

If you don't have an existing hole, make sure you have a center cut (plunge type) end mill.;) They will cost more than regular end mill.
Gary

[Bill Jepson]

Something to remember is that end mills are case hardened, shank included. If you hit any tough spots it is easy to spin the mill in a standard chuck. This can RUIN chuck jaws. If you spin a drill bit the soft shank gets torn up but the chuck is ok. Be very careful. Generally I recomend against using a end mill in any drill chuck. The jaws can be ruined and then none of your drills will run true.
Bill Jepson

[Jim Becker]

Bill, interesting point. Perhaps a second, reasonably priced, chuck to dedicate for the purpose might be a good idea?

[Rick Lizek]

Most drill chucks are the jacobs taper type and lateral force will knock it out. So you risk having a spinning endmill in your lap or feet. Putting red loctite on the taper will hold it on for such operations. Some drill presses such as the older craftsman had a threaded collar to hold the chuck on so that would be a safer way to go. You should look at the smaller benchtop Grizzly pin router as a viable option or the Grizzly G0540.