reinforcing miter joints

[Dan Barr]

wondering if anyone has a good method for reinforcing miter joints without the reinforcement being visible. (spline joint not an option here.)

see the attached.

thanks,

dan

[Ron Dunn]

How wide are the mitres, Dan? You might be able to dowel or biscuit them.

[Phil Thien]

I'm really getting back into biscuits big-time.

[Robert foster]

How about a halflap mitre?

Bob

[John Michael]

Domino, keeps the joint aligned during glue up too.

[John D Watson]

I've just seen (latest copy of Canadian Home Workshop) where a biscuit can be inserted across the back of a miter joint to reinforce it. The excess is cut off once the glue has dried. Looks like a great idea.

[John Thompson]

Secret miter dove-tail. You can find out how in Ian Kirby's "The Complete Dovetail" book. It's the most complicated of the 4 types and not easy to explain without illustrations.

Sarge..

[Don Bullock]

I've been using a different approach. On my last project and the one I'm working on now I've used Miller dowels as a decorative way to reinforce the miter. It may not be the best way to do it, but I like the results.

[David Duke]

How about a halflap mitre?

Bob

Believe or not I cut after over 25 yrs of WWing I cut my first one of these today, relatively easy and you can't tell the half-lap from the front or side; but it is visible from the top/bottom and back. Overall this is a very attractive and strong joint.

[Danny Thompson]

You could inlay a spline on the bottom edge of the joint, where the bottom edge of the mitered face is covered by the spline but inlaid so the spline is only visible from the bottom.

[Dan Barr]

would a butterfly or bowtie (double dovetail) on the underside actually reinforce this joint?

the dimensions are:

rails are 2" wide and 1 1/8 thick (on edge)

ciao,

dan

[Paul Girouard]

I can't see Dan's image:( So much for paying in my six bucks :rolleyes:

So what kind of image is that Dan??

[Danny Thompson]

A .jpg. Here is another option, plus a powerpoint version. Option 2 is essentially a loose tenon glued into a hinge mortise that spans the miter.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=79207&d=1200286770

[Dan Barr]

that s&cks that you cant see it.

just a bitmap line drawing of a miter joint.

thanks,

dan

[Dan Barr]

im going to go with the inlaid spline or the bowtie/butterfly on the underside.

thanks,

dan

[Jim Becker]

Use hidden splines...the slots get cut before you put the joint together.

[Lee Schierer]

If the boards are wide enough you can put in a pocket hole screw from teh back or drill through one side into the leg and put a screw straight in. Hide the screw with a wood plug with matching grain.

I also like the half lap miter joint, but as others have said some of it will show.

[Rick Thom]

If you have a RT use a 1/4" slot cutter and small size biscuit. Plenty strong and the biscuit will ensure proper alignment of the boards and joint. No fuss, no muss and it's hidden from sight.

[Jason Smalling]

Dan, I make a lot of frames for mirrors and pictures. I use a product made by logan. It uses v-nails from the back side, and will never be seen from the front or side. It is the F-300. You can find it here..http://www.artsupply.com/logan/framingtool.htm
Hope this helps!!

[Chris Padilla]

I like to use glue. ;)