Machining aluminum on router table/shaper?

[Charles Murphy]

Would I be able to machine 1/4" thick aluminum plate on my 2 HP Shop Fox shaper ? I have a template and basically I was wondering if I could do something along the lines of using a pattern bit with a bushing to follow the template. The spindle speeds of the shaper are 7,000 and 10,000 rpm. If this is possible, would I be okay using a carbide tipped 2 flute flush trim router bit like these http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html) or would it be better to use a solid carbide spiral bit like these http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html) or is there something else that I should consider using?

[Bruce Page]

Charles, it shouldn’t be a problem except for the major mess it will create. I know machine shops that use regular carbide round over bits in handheld routers on aluminum plate all the time. I would expect it to be very loud and the aluminum to heat up quickly.

Welcome to SMC

[Joe Chritz]

You can machine aluminum fairly easy. I don't know if I would make a habit of doing serious stock removal by hand but with some thought you can do it.

Clogging of the endmill/router bit is a real problem as it the fact that they are designed to run at faster speeds.

Check this link for specially designed bits.

www.onsrud.com

CNC makes it pretty easy.

Joe

[Charles Murphy]

Charles, it shouldn’t be a problem except for the major mess it will create. I know machine shops that use regular carbide round over bits in handheld routers on aluminum plate all the time. I would expect it to be very loud and the aluminum to heat up quickly.

Welcome to SMC

Bruce, I assume you mean the machine shops use regular carbide tipped bits or are they using solid carbide bits?

I guess I also should've said that my plan would be to cut as close as possible to my layout lines and then do the final trimming to the pattern with the shaper.

[Bruce Page]

Bruce, I assume you mean the machine shops use regular carbide tipped bits or are they using solid carbide bits?

I guess I also should've said that my plan would be to cut as close as possible to my layout lines and then do the final trimming to the pattern with the shaper.

Charles, they typically use plain old carbide tipped bits that we woodworkers use. I would run it at the shaper's slower rpm. Also, it will add to the mess but WD-40 will help prevent the alum. from building up on the bit.

[Pete Bradley]

I think you're going to find a lot of people here who know it's possible but don't know what the optimum is. If you've got a 1/2" collet on your router, you can run standard milling cutters. I've done it and it's a bit hairy but doable. I've never tried a straight flute on aluminum but I'd speculate it will be a rough ride.

I'd run this past the folks at practicalmachinist, as they will have a much better feel for what's best.

Pete

[Jim Becker]

If you try this, do NOT run your dust collection system. You don't want hot metal cruising into your bin or bag... ;)

[John Young]

I used a carbide flush trim spiral router bit in my router table to make back-up dovetail templates from 1/2" thick T6061 aluminum. I first placed the template on the blank and scribed the dovetail profile. Then I cut to within 1/16" of the scribe line on the blank. This was accomplished by drilling holes and cutting the rest of the waste away on my little bandsaw with a metal blade. Then I fastened the blank to the dovetail template and ran it through the router table. The process was quite accurate and the finish was smooth. I would suggest running the bit at a slow speed. Do a search for recommendationd on bit speed for milling aluminum.