Question about cabinet backs

[Steve Milito]

My question relates to stting the back in the cabinet. In the past I have cut a rabbet on all four panels. This leaves visible rabbits on the sides. I ques I could cut stopped rabbits, and not have the problem. Does anyone here do that? What's the easiest way to cut a stopped rabbit on a reasonable size panel?

[Paul Girouard]

My question relates to stting the back in the cabinet. In the past I have cut a rabbet on all four panels. This leaves visible rabbits on the sides. I ques I could cut stopped rabbits, and not have the problem.

Does anyone here do that?

What's the easiest way to cut a stopped rabbit on a reasonable size panel?



Yes when that joint will show.

From what you said I assume your just butting the top and bottom to the sides???.....

If so you could use a rabbeting bit in a router and just stop before the end of the panel / side , use a chisel to clean up the end of the rabbit.

If you normally use a table saw and dado head make a mark on your fence and drop the stock down , carefully , into the blade and stop before the end of the cut , so the two ends don't get rabbet all the way . Again clean up with a chisel.

There are other ways / options depending on your actual assembly methods.


If your looking for a magic way to make a stopped dado without a chisel for final clean up good luck.

[Jamie Buxton]

An all-power-tools way to make a stopped rabbet is a plunge router.

[glenn bradley]

Router, plunge or not, and stop blocks clamped to the piece to determine the stop point. This is an area where the Colt really shines. Another method I use is to assemble the case (dry or permanent) and run the router around the edge. I then square the corners with a chisel. If the carcase is small enough, I use the router table and a rabbet bit and simply move the carcase all the way around the bit; square corners with chisel on this method as well.

[Joe Chritz]

If you are referiring to the rabbet being visible from underneath then it is and it really isn't worth messing with unless you really feel the need. The few times I had to do stopped dado's I used a router.

I use dados for applying backs. 1/2" sides set in 3/4" to the face of the back. The dado is visible from underneath but I have yet to have anyone even mention it. One way to fix it would be to edge band the bottoms after the dados are cut. The dado also allows for a 1/4 scribe to the wall if needed and could be increased easily.

Cabinet backs are applied with three main methods. Dado's, rabbets and planted on( usually with glue and staples). I prefer the dado method and it only adds about an hour to a whole kitchen. That hour I saved by spending $50 more and using 1/2 backs and no hanging rail.

Joe

[Paul Girouard]

Cabinet backs are applied with three main methods. Dado's, rabbits and planted on( usually with glue and staples). I prefer the dado method and it only adds about an hour to a whole kitchen. That hour I saved by spending $50 more and using 1/2 backs and no hanging rail.

Joe

Joe have you ever had a issue with the inside working dimension being to small with that method?

I have that's why I mentioned it. The net inside left over cabinet size would not allow what she considered , and I agreed , "normal" plate storage.

As you lose the 1/4" "Normal" inset for the dado , then the 1/2" back so a net 3/4". Instead of the 1/4 to 3/8 with a rabbeted 1/4' back.

Sure you can compensate by cutting your parts deeper , as long as that's all figured into cost / price / materials list it's not a big issue . Just one to add into the program / plan.

[Rod Sheridan]

If you normally use a table saw and dado head make a mark on your fence and drop the stock down , carefully , into the blade and stop before the end of the cut , so the two ends don't get rabbet all the way . Again clean up with a chisel.




Although it is possible to make double stopped dadoes by dropping the panel onto the blade, this method also is responsible for many injuries.

A plunge router and a guide would be far safer.........Regards, Rod.

[Paul Girouard]

If you normally use a table saw and dado head make a mark on your fence and drop the stock down , carefully , into the blade and stop before the end of the cut , so the two ends don't get rabbet all the way . Again clean up with a chisel.

quote]


Although it is possible to make double stopped dadoes by dropping the panel onto the blade, this method also is responsible for many injuries.

A plunge router and a guide would be far safer.........Regards, Rod.


Yes it may be BUT I do this for a living and have for around 30 years , I've done literally 100's of cuts , if not 1000's , that way . YMMV .

4 stitch's, total, in my life.

The worst construction injury I ever witnessed was done with a router, lots of ways to hurt yourself in this business /hobby. If you don't think it's safe to do , do it another way.

Regards Paul

BTW If I selected a router I'd use a rabbeting bit , not a straight edge and straight bit . I mentioned that in my first post.

Jim , what was wrong with the quote tags ?

[Mark Singer]

You cab assemble with no rabbet and then run a router with a rabbit bit on the inner edge to make the seat for the panel. Square the corners with a chisel

[Adam Slutsky]

I'm reading this post with interest since I am in the process of building a bunch (10) of built in plywood cabinets and was going to use a dado blade to make a rabbet/rebate to fit the back into. However, I now see that the dado blade I inherited (8") is not recommended for my table saw. I can either buy a 6" dado blade or just run the router around the back and use a chisel to clean up the corners. Can I run a router around the cabinet edges with good results? It would seem hard to hold the router straight on the end of the cabinet sides? I do own a router and a bunch of bits. Any advice? Also, is there a 6" dado blade out there that is decent that will not break the bank.

[Paul Girouard]

Adam I would recommend running the rabbeting bit pre-assembly. Yes it can be done after BUT you'll either have to except that you'll More Than Likely ( MTL) , have some wobble as you have already thought of , or you could rig up a stability fence on your router to combat / prevent that.

Seems simpler to me to run the router pre-assembly coming up intentionally short of the corners , then clean up with a chisel.

Then the rabbets can be run with the router on the flat wide surface of the panel / side / top/ bottom. Not on the edge of the assembled parts.

Depending on your exact assembly method , MTL, only two of the parts will need stop - rabbeted.

There are MTL as many ways to do it as they are W/W doing it

I look for a combination of speed and accuracy and "what works best for me" , meaning what tools and what not are on hand.

[Joe Chritz]

Joe have you ever had a issue with the inside working dimension being to small with that method?

I have that's why I mentioned it. The net inside left over cabinet size would not allow what she considered , and I agreed , "normal" plate storage.

As you lose the 1/4" "Normal" inset for the dado , then the 1/2" back so a net 3/4". Instead of the 1/4 to 3/8 with a rabbeted 1/4' back.

Sure you can compensate by cutting your parts deeper , as long as that's all figured into cost / price / materials list it's not a big issue . Just one to add into the program / plan.

If you don't mention it then nobody knows. :D

Actually a lot of cabinet manufactures use a 1/4" back and a 3/4" hanging rail on the outside so the face of the back ends up 1/4" close to the front than a 1/2" back. I have used 1/4" backs and a 3/4 hanging rail but the added hassle of the rail really was a time killer. If the rail was outside the box then pocket screws would work and be fast but then I am back to being ahead with a 1/2" back.

Since the cabs are custom and don't need to be matched to anything I cut my uppers at 11 3/4 then add a face frame to make them 12 1/2 deep total. Since you only lose 1/4" by going with a 1/2" back I come out 1/4" extra.


Joe

[Adam Slutsky]

Thanks! I didn't even think about doing it pre-assembly.

Adam

[Lee Schierer]

If you normally use a table saw and dado head make a mark on your fence and drop the stock down , carefully , into the blade and stop before the end of the cut , so the two ends don't get rabbit all the way .


NO Don't ever lower, drop on place stock in any other way down onto a moving blade, dado or other wise. This is a sure fire way to get a kick back. You might get by with it on a few occassions, but if the teeth ever grab it will kick back for sure. It is far safer to start with the blade below the table surface and rasie the blade into the stock. If you get your height set, you can count the number of turns it takes to lower the blade below the table surface. When when the saw is running crank the blade back up the exact same number of turns. You will still need to insure that the borad is securely held as you crank the blade up. When you finish the cut turn off the saw wait for the blade to stop and then lower the blade the same count of turns and remove the stock.

[Paul Girouard]

NO Don't ever lower, drop on place stock in any other way down onto a moving blade, dado or other wise. This is a sure fire way to get a kick back. You might get by with it on a few occassions, but if the teeth ever grab it will kick back for sure. It is far safer to start with the blade below the table surface and rasie the blade into the stock. If you get your height set, you can count the number of turns it takes to lower the blade below the table surface. When when the saw is running crank the blade back up the exact same number of turns. You will still need to insure that the borad is securely held as you crank the blade up. When you finish the cut turn off the saw wait for the blade to stop and then lower the blade the same count of turns and remove the stock.



What ever Lee :rolleyes:

It's a friggin rabbit about 3/8" x 3/8" AT MOST , I do it all the time. It fast, it's clean, it gets the job done! And IMO it is a safe situation, at least for a experienced operator.

30 years, or so , of do it that way has resulted in ZERO kick backs . I'm not talking about a 2 " deep x 3/4 inch wide rabbit in a solid hardwood.

(((( He asked about a small rabbit on the edge of a cabinet side made out of plywood , my stated method is a safe option for all but a beginner W/W. )))

But even if it was larger / deeper dado or rabbit in solid stock IF the stock was long enought , say 3 feet or longer, I personally would have no problem with doing a drop in dado or rabbit , I would how ever shut down the saw or retract the blade to exit a cut of that nature.

If some one else does not feel it is safe, FOR THEM , then they should find another way. Which I have also stated and given OTHER options for in this thread.

Safety stops and starts with the brain / person operating the saw.

Not all methods are for all people , YMMV.