ROS recommendation?

[Rob Leslie]

Is anyone aware of a small electric-powered random orbital sander that would be suitable for bowls (i.e. able to use 2" - 3" hook/loop discs)? I know many have recommended the Grex, which is great if you're set up with a compressor. But, what if you're not?

I'm currently using an angle drill with "Vince's WoodNWonders" sanding system for power sanding, but I think I'd be happier if I could put the sanding discs on a ROS. I really like the sandpaper that Vince provides, it's just the swirl marks from power sanding I'd like to avoid. It seems that a ROS would greatly reduce the amount of hand sanding necessary on top of the power sanding.

Thanks,

Rob

[Curt Fuller]

I can't think of ever seeing a random orbital sander that uses a disc as small as 2-3". But if you find one I'd be interested too.

In the mean time, these cheap Harbor Freight close quarters drills http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956 work great and they're even on sale right now. You can burn up a half dozen of them before you ever get close to the cost of a grex or sioux. I've bought two about 18 months ago thinking I'd get two while they were cheap. But the first is still going strong.

As for the swirl marks, I've found that sanding while the lathe is turning, at least through the coarser grits seems to help with that problem. I usually sand everything up through at least 320 grit with the lathe turning and then hit it with the finer grits by hand. However, you're mileage may vary.

[Reed Gray]

I ususally sand to 400 grit. I can barely see scratches in the 320 grit range, and can't see 400 grit. If you are still seeing swirl patterns when you are done sanding (having a great multispectrum light or direct sunlight really helps), then for me most of the time it is from not getting all of the previous grit (or grits) scratches out before progressing to the next grit, and not a problem with the power sander. The pneumatic sanders will keep the compressor running full time, which adds heat to the shop, and costs a lot more to run than a angle drill.

robo hippy

[Paul Engle]

Rob, you would have to order a spare pad and cut it down to dia , I have two spare pads and cut one down to 4 in and 3 in and remounted on the ROS but found no benefit or advantage as the motor is bulky and hard to manage, not flexiable enuf for contours inside a bowl. I use a 2" hook and loop pad from CS on a drill motor for the insides and is much easier to handle.I also made a 3 in disc ( foam computer mouse pad ) to hook/loop on the 2 in pad and works nice ,I got a 6" shank extension from true value for 4.95$ , works great and runs true.

[Jim Becker]

I don't know of a ROS that is small enough for this work. I use a Souix angle drill for power sanding. With that spinning as well as the workpiece, you're not all that far off from a random orbit action, especially if you move it slightly as you most certainly will while sanding.

[Ben Gastfriend]

I agree with Jim, never seen a random orbit this small. The small angle sanders that are mentioned above look like a good option for bowl finishing.

[Rob Leslie]

I don't know of a ROS that is small enough for this work.

Sounds like a business opportunity to me. I wonder if the turning community is large enough to justify a product and if the manufacturers watch this space.....

[Vince Welch]

Hi Rob,

There are electric ROS units out there. However, whether Pneumatic and electric ROS they are best used only on the higher grits says 280/320 and higher with a soft innerface pad. At that grit using a light touch and low speed is all that is needed to remove swirl marks. ROS units provide more of a finesse type of action and are helpful but IMHO I believe one should be able to get there with an angle drill using a soft innerface pad. At lower grits 80-220 ROS do not provide the torque needed to remove tool marks and lines. Also be aware that pneumatic ROS are better used with a 60 gallon oil type compressor. The 30 gallon and smaller units struggle to keep up. To have the smaller units cycling more the 10-15 minutes an hour is severely shorting the life of the compressor per Campbell Hausman the manufacture of most compressor units we see out in the market today. I have a cheat sheet that I send people and I will be happy to send it your way. Lastly, you may try a bit of wax to help remove swirls. Just place some on the piece before your first grit then sand through your grits.
Hope this helps, Vince

[Gordon Seto]

Vince,

I have the electric Metabo ROS. I find it too bulky and not comfortable to hold and use. I have problem using it for the interior of bowls.

10 to 15 minutes an hour is only 17 ~25 % duty cycle. If it takes a continuous duty air compressor, we are talking the 5 HP and up industrial units. I can't justify a 5 HP compressor just for sanding the finer grits! A 2 HP lathe is more than I will ever need.

Is the "cheat sheet" you are referring to, the same as "sanding suggestion" in your web site under your profile? If not, I would like a copy.

[Rob Leslie]

Vince,

I have the electric Metabo ROS. I find it too bulky and not comfortable to hold and use. I have problem using it for the interior of bowls.

10 to 15 minutes an hour is only 17 ~25 % duty cycle. If it takes a continuous duty air compressor, we are talking the 5 HP and up industrial units. I can't justify a 5 HP compressor just for sanding the finer grits! A 2 HP lathe is more than I will ever need.

Is the "cheat sheet" you are referring to, the same as "sanding suggestion" in your web site under your profile? If not, I would like a copy.

Gordon,

Is this the Metabo that you are referring to as too bulky?
http://www.allprotools.com/Metabo-SXE400-RANDOM-ORBIT-3-1-8-2.0-AMP-Sander-p-18975.html


If so, too bad. It looks like a nice size.

[Bruce Pennell]

Rob just finished a 16" mesquite bowl 4 corner winged, use my Festool RO 150 6" to finish the wings and edges. I was a little tired from holding the sander in one hand and the bowl in the other. I might try the RO125 with a soft pad, thats Festools 5" with a soft pad. Dust collection is great with the vac. For the bowls I buy the sponges from HF, course, med. and fine, then continue with 320, and 400 wet. I have bought a 5" soft pad from HF but haven't tried it yet in my air angle grinder. I use a 2" on my air angle grinder if I need to power sand (usaully only the bottoms after I part off).
I do have to tell you my RO 150 easily removed all the tool marks, started with 80 grit, 120, 240 it ate up the tool marks. The Festool RO 150 in agressive mode is almost too much, with 36 grit it can hog out almost as fast as a bowl gouge. I have heard everyone likes Vince's WoodnWonder (http://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/Sanding%20Suggestions.htm) here's a link to his sanding suggestions page.

[Glenn Hodges]

Suggestion: try using your electric drill while the bowl is turning on the lathe. I turn the bowl at about 100 rpm and use the drill at high speed. I find this prevents flat spots, good luck what ever you use.

[Don Robert]

I use one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93629. Would like to find one with something other than a 90 degree head, but at l east this is close. Can't beat the price - I've been using mine for several months now and no hint of it going bad. This in spite of the fact that I never oil it, just to keep oil off the wood.

[Ron McKinley]

What about the King Arthur or Guinevere or whatever. Can't remember the name of it. It looks like a grinder motor with a long flexible shaft and what looks like a sanding ball on the end. It probably only has rotary action on the end without the randomness......Ron