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View Full Version : TS Blade Alignment - I'm stumped!!!



Russell Tribby
01-12-2008, 4:40 PM
I got a TS Aligner a couple of weeks ago and went about tuning up my TS. I have a Ridgid 3650. I dialed in my fence and my blade and thought I was good to go. The last couple of times I've changed the blade and checked everything with the aligner the blade alignment has been way off - by 0.02" from the back of the blade to the front. My 3650 has a trunnion adjustment lever at the back that I've used each time to get it back to where it should be but why is it reverting back after I've dialed it in? All the trunnion bolts are tight. Help!

Michael Weber
01-12-2008, 4:48 PM
Can't help you but I just discovered yesterday there is an exclusive Ridgid Forum at
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12
If the link doesn't open on the woodworking forum scroll down a bit.

Heather Thompson
01-12-2008, 4:52 PM
Russell,

Are you measuring front to back off of the same tooth on the blade? I use a Master Plate to set the miter slot parallel to the blade, also check the arbor for run out, possibly a burr on the arbor flange.

Heather

glenn bradley
01-12-2008, 5:14 PM
It is surprising what a little piece of sawdust will do if caught between blade and arbor. I doubt if this is it as it is happening regularly but, just be sure. Mark the tooth you plan to use with a felt tip marker so that you aren't readjusting your saw around your blade. Other than that I hope the Ridgid forum can help if this is a known issue.

Ken Shoemaker
01-12-2008, 6:57 PM
Make sure you do the alignment with the belt on the arbor. The weight of the motor will tweak the alignment by just about that much on my Delta.

Russell Tribby
01-13-2008, 9:19 AM
Thanks for all the advice. Ken, I didn't think about the difference with the belt on even though I didn't take it off, so that can't be it. I have been measuring from the same tooth so it can't be the blade. I took the blade off and made sure that the blade face and stiffener face was clean. I readjusted everything and got it all back together. I'll head back out later today and see what the verdict is. In regards to the Ridgid forum, I've been a member there for awhile. While it is not as informative as this one (that may have to do with the fact that there aren't as many members) it has proven to be very helpful in a number of matters in the past.

Gordon Harner
01-27-2008, 2:24 PM
Hi I just signed up as a member. What great info. I've got the same problem with a Grizzly TSC10 I bought new in 1987. I've installed PALS so realignment isn't such an ordeal. I find that mine goes out when I tilt the blade. I am wondering if the carriage, the moving part of the trunnion, might be wandering on the parts bolted to the table. I've tried to clamp the parts together but am not sure I was sucessful. I also wonder if the rods that connect the two ends of the trunnion might be out of parrellel but I don't know how to check. There are times when it drives me crazier than I already am. Any thoughts? I would expect this to be a common problem.

Jason Beam
01-27-2008, 2:38 PM
Gordon,

If it goes out when tilted, but comes back when at 90, then you have a different adjustment that's out. The trunions hanging from the table may not be parallel with the top surface of your table. In other words, the back of the trunion may be lower or higher than the front. Not a problem at 90 degrees, but when tilted, this difference is VERY apparent. I had to add a few washers to the back of my trunions on my PM 64a.

On the other hand ... if it goes out when you tilt it and STAYS out after you've brought it up, then something's not tight or something's jamming and tweaking your settings. I had my saw upside down on my bench and made sure everything moved smoothly inside - then carefully watched things again with the motor and belt/guard in place with it right-side up. The amount of weight being dealt with could be tweaking things, too, if your bolts aren't tight enough.

Gordon Harner
01-27-2008, 3:40 PM
I haven't checked the alignment when the blade is tilted. But the alignment is off when the blade is returned to 90. I was wondering whether the table mounted parts of the trunnion could be out of parrellel. The bolts are torqued pretty tight. I'm afraid to tighten more for fear of stripping out the cast iron. I also wonder if the adjustable stops might cause the alignment to go out it contact is made with the underside of the table.

Dale Lesak
01-27-2008, 3:52 PM
Hi Gordon, It sounds like the tubs that connect the front trunnion to the rear are out if alignment. You'll need a flat plate of some kind to lay across the both tubes. If you have any rocking in the plate the tubes will need to be adjusted. First check that nothing is binding when you crank the blade over to 45º (motor hitting out feed table) check it with blade all the way up and down. you'll need to loosen the tube nut on the back trunnion and tweak it to remove all rocking in test plate. I use a air impact to tighten the nut back up. using a wrench wants to twist the trunnions out of alignment again. (Been there done that) If you need more info You can e-mail me Dale

glenn bradley
01-27-2008, 3:57 PM
I haven't checked the alignment when the blade is tilted. But the alignment is off when the blade is returned to 90. I was wondering whether the table mounted parts of the trunnion could be out of parrellel. The bolts are torqued pretty tight. I'm afraid to tighten more for fear of stripping out the cast iron. I also wonder if the adjustable stops might cause the alignment to go out it contact is made with the underside of the table.

I would think you will find other things to correct but (and this is just me) I always back my stops off to allow me to go beyond the 'return to 90* and the tilt to 45* spots. The stops are never accurate enough to rely on totally so why have them potentially cause issues? My .02.

Gordon Harner
01-27-2008, 4:36 PM
I just got back upstairs after checking my saw. I put a torpedo level on the rods. The level was right on at the infeed end of the saw but way off on the outfeed end. (I have leg levelors on the saw, assuming that being out of level would throw off the alignment too). I wonder if it would be possible to make the adjustment without removing the trunnions? I can't find four points that look level other than the trunnion mating surfaces. Any thoughts? Really appreciate the help!